IACV??
Ok, for a few weeks my car has been revvin up from 1500 to 2000 rpm's and dropping back down and doing this continuously......it started as a little problem but now it does it constantly. I heard it is the intake air control valve (IACV) which can be caused by having low coolant. So i refilled my coolant, and it stopped messing up. Now today, it started right back up again. I dont' feel like buyin a new one from the dealership for 350 dollars tho. Anybody got some suggestions?
search for one. this is covered alot.
second just take it off and clean the screen be careful not to push the screen into the iacv then you'll be screwed.
also check your motor for leaking coolant
second just take it off and clean the screen be careful not to push the screen into the iacv then you'll be screwed.
also check your motor for leaking coolant
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by prylwd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It could be the IACV but you need to check it. Also check the TPS and MAP. Ohh and also check for vacum leaks.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 95 lude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">search for one. this is covered alot.
second just take it off and clean the screen be careful not to push the screen into the iacv then you'll be screwed.
also check your motor for leaking coolant
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Any pics, or instructions on the said screen?
second just take it off and clean the screen be careful not to push the screen into the iacv then you'll be screwed.
also check your motor for leaking coolant
</TD></TR></TABLE>Any pics, or instructions on the said screen?
actually, it's the Idle Air Control Valve, not Intake Air Control Valve. you should try bleeding your coolant system again. maybe air got in there somehow. double check your coolant hoses and make sure there's no leaks, it's a possibility air is getting into your coolant system somehow.
If none of that helps check the high idle control valve. That was my problem. Simple fix take the two bolts out on the end remove the cover and screw the white thing back down until tight.
Trending Topics
I heard cleanin the screen doesn't do too much, so i don't wanna have to go through the trouble of doing that if it's not the problem. With my idle problem, it revs up and then almost seems like it cuts out and drops back down and does this over and over again until you take off. And it only does it after i've been driving for awhile and the motor is warm. Anybody have any detailed instructions or pictures on how to bleed the coolant system??? Also, could improper valve lash be my problem?
did u clean the idle air control valve screen yet, to bleed the cooling system there is a nimple on the t stat housing open it and pour coolant in until you see all the bubbles comes out of it, and then close it
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrettyLude »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">did u clean the idle air control valve screen yet, to bleed the cooling system there is a nimple on the t stat housing open it and pour coolant in until you see all the bubbles comes out of it, and then close it</TD></TR></TABLE>
He's right - there is a 12mm bolt with a hole at the top of it, on the top of the T-stat housing. with your ignition off loosen this bolt off a bit and pour coolant into your rad until no more boubles are coming out of the bleed bolt then close it up, Top off the rest of the rad fluid (if needs be) then start your car keep adding rad fluid if required until it's sitting at the top a few more bubbles may be worked out of the system (continuous bubbles would be a bad thing) - close the cap, and you should be good to go.
Check the nuts on your throttle cable also (i'm sure you've done that) and if the problem happens mostly when you're cold I think it's your FITV not your IACV.
best of luck.
He's right - there is a 12mm bolt with a hole at the top of it, on the top of the T-stat housing. with your ignition off loosen this bolt off a bit and pour coolant into your rad until no more boubles are coming out of the bleed bolt then close it up, Top off the rest of the rad fluid (if needs be) then start your car keep adding rad fluid if required until it's sitting at the top a few more bubbles may be worked out of the system (continuous bubbles would be a bad thing) - close the cap, and you should be good to go.
Check the nuts on your throttle cable also (i'm sure you've done that) and if the problem happens mostly when you're cold I think it's your FITV not your IACV.
best of luck.
Ok, i went out and found the thermostat housing... Where the radiator hose goes into the engine right? Well....I couldn't find any bleed bolt on top of the housing that had a hole on the top of it...what do i do now?
well i'm assuming you have the h22a ? correct me if i'm wrong...
it's not the housing that goes into the FRONT of your head/block. It's the housing on the left side of the engine (when facing engine) at the rear of the engine (left rear corner of valve cover) - you'll see it sort of next to the egr, but lower.
hope that helps.. of course a picture is worth a thousand words.
it's not the housing that goes into the FRONT of your head/block. It's the housing on the left side of the engine (when facing engine) at the rear of the engine (left rear corner of valve cover) - you'll see it sort of next to the egr, but lower.
hope that helps.. of course a picture is worth a thousand words.
just take out your Idle air control valve and clean the filter gently with a old toothbrush. I did it today it took me around 45 mins to take out clean and put back.
if you require a picture let me know and i will go out tom and take a photo of where it is and how to take it off.
if you require a picture let me know and i will go out tom and take a photo of where it is and how to take it off.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mikester_91 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Can anybody tell me how to bleed the coolant system and clean the screen for the IACV on an H23?? I'm confused as hell.</TD></TR></TABLE>
heh i thought i told you once already (about the bleed)... here it goes again.
Looking at the left side of your valve cover (when facing the engine) towards the back left corner and lower, you will see your thermostat housing. it should look something like this.

loosen the bolt that I've indicated in heh, green. add rad fluid, until no bubbles are coming out the top hole of that bolt.. it should be clean green stream of yumness. tighten that bolt down. then top the fluid to the top of the neck, run the car, UPDATE: "crank the internal heat" , keep adding rad fluid till you can't add anymore, and a few bubbles will surface (constant bubbling would be bad) then squish the rad cap back down - some more fluid will spill out - and your done.
this is your IACV

there is only two bolts holding it onto the side of the intake mani (my finger that is pointing at it is covering one of the IACV's mounting holes) - it's pretty self explanatory to take it off - loosen the two bolts.
this is the screen of the IACV

brush that with a tooth brush without pushing the screen in. - I thought the guy who described it above was pretty clear?
I feel sorry for ya because u've pondering this for a week. sometimes you just gotta go outside and fiddle ya know (:
(updated for missed step)
Modified by Altilude at 12:39 PM 12/30/2004
heh i thought i told you once already (about the bleed)... here it goes again.
Looking at the left side of your valve cover (when facing the engine) towards the back left corner and lower, you will see your thermostat housing. it should look something like this.

loosen the bolt that I've indicated in heh, green. add rad fluid, until no bubbles are coming out the top hole of that bolt.. it should be clean green stream of yumness. tighten that bolt down. then top the fluid to the top of the neck, run the car, UPDATE: "crank the internal heat" , keep adding rad fluid till you can't add anymore, and a few bubbles will surface (constant bubbling would be bad) then squish the rad cap back down - some more fluid will spill out - and your done.
this is your IACV

there is only two bolts holding it onto the side of the intake mani (my finger that is pointing at it is covering one of the IACV's mounting holes) - it's pretty self explanatory to take it off - loosen the two bolts.
this is the screen of the IACV

brush that with a tooth brush without pushing the screen in. - I thought the guy who described it above was pretty clear?
I feel sorry for ya because u've pondering this for a week. sometimes you just gotta go outside and fiddle ya know (:
(updated for missed step)
Modified by Altilude at 12:39 PM 12/30/2004
if the problem happens mostly when you're cold I think it's your FITV not your IACV.
best of luck.
[/QUOTE]
i can bet it is the fast idle thermal vavle it is on your intake manifold if you search theres a write up.
Ok, here's a picture of my thermostat housing, and I can't find the bleed bolt anywhere near it.. http://members.msn.com/default...e9bUc$



