this is embarrasing and it disgusts me
i put out 115whp on an h22a1

all the other h22's were putting out about 140's

my a/f ratio was 10:1 during the whole midrange and it went back up to the 11's in vtec

but what could be the problem? why is it running so rich?

the guy also said that it could be the o2 sensor in the header.

any info is appreciated
this is absolutely horrible.......
no wonder i'v been running 16.7 at the track.......><

also my mods are:

Aem CAI w/ K&N filter
Greddy Header
dual N1's

 

ouch, i have no idea but that big dip right around 5200 doesnt look too good either...

 

Running extremely rich kills power.

Under load on a NA application, you want a 13.0:1 afr- not 11:1.

 

hey aznblueboiy, i just posted a post too saying WTF!? lol

weird dyno ..

 

at least you guys got 140's.....
im 115!
a civic can rape me!

 

nah dont worry dude, that dyno is off. its subtracting 20% of the loss from drivetrain or some ****

 

well 115hp is not even close to 190hp
thats like 40% drivetrain loss
lol

 

looks like you need to check out some stuffs , may need fpr maybe

 

115 at the wheels. 190 is at the crank hp big dif. but 115 is still very low for an h22

 

The dyno isn't wrong look at that CURVE! It's obvious you are experiencing a major problem at VTEC...your power just dies. Actually you start to drop power large at 4000....

I would check your timing belt maybe you are off several teeth

 

yea man, your #s are lower than what they should be at, you would expect higher #s with your few mods. you're largest gain is at 2600k and then it dies from there, and when you hit vtec, its just fubar...

 

well the dyno is supposed to be corrected.

115x 1.17 is the corrected #'s

but that is still very low....

what could be the problem?
iv got a clutch thats not broken in also and a fidanza flywheel

 

if you want to know what's wrong read our replies and follow our advice.

Doesn't matter if the graph is corrected...it will corrected every number by an equivalent amount. it's the shape of the curve that tells us there is a major problem. Look at your friends dyno graphs and compare, you'll get what we are talking about.

 

yea running rich is killing you... I'd also ditch the dual n1's

 

it's not your clutch man, your curve is telling you something is wrong when you hit vtec, look at that and your a/f ratio first before you start jumping to things like your clutch and flywheel...

 

That is the worst curve I've ever seen. VTEC loses power lol. Give your engine a tune up and check if anything is wrong with it.

 

lol...that dyno cruve would actually read better if it were flipped upside-down...at least you could say the vtec was working kinda right

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by preludeez &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">lol...that dyno cruve would actually read better if it were flipped upside-down...at least you could say the vtec was working kinda right </TD></TR></TABLE>

LOL!

 

i really doubt it's the dual's

should i reset my ECU?

i changed from a SR to CAI but would that make a difference in the AF ratio? since i think they changed the amount of air it sucks in?

so i should just change the o2 sensor wires? cap n rotor?

the plugs are a year old, just did a oil change, changed tranny fluid.

what else could i do to fix the AF problem without getting a VAFC or something?

i mean the stock ecu for everyone else were 12's...from 2000 and up...

 

are you sure your ecu isn't chipped..? that could be dumping the excess unwanted fuel. my mugen chipped is crap and i know i will have better #s with a stock ecu. anyone wanna swap?
ps. what king of mods did you buddies had who dynoed 145s. Tht dyno reads pretty low compared to mustang and other dynos. +around 27 hp to get an eqivalent mustang dyno read out

 

my buddies had about the same.
I/E pulley cam gears
nothing much more then me...

 

im gona take a guese and say its your fuel pump. or something with your fuel system is making your run richer than you should be

 

holy christ on a cracker.

#1 give the poor beast a tune up
#2 An intake is an intake is an intake. SR would almost be better.
#3 Isnt that a mustang dyno ?
#4 what type of header do you have on the car ?

Usally intake exhuast and little bolt ons like that make preludes run real rich. A crazy aftermarket header will lean it out. I suggest getting an FPR that can adjust down (not sure if there is one) and getting you A/F figured out. Take it to someone who knows how to tune a car and your problem will go away.

When is the last time you changed plugs, fluids, cap, all that good stuff.

 

greddy header

im just gonna start with the o2 sensor and i changed the plugs about 20k km ago
have not changed the cap+rotor though.
changed oil change tranny fluid cluch fluid power steering....all that stuff.

 

It could be the O2. If that sensor is bad, the ecu could be adding too much fuel and think it's running fine. A temporary fix would be to reset the ecu, but the ECU will learn (in a bad way with a bad sensor) over time and end up back where it is now. What sort of mileage do you get? Do the plugs have lots of carbon? Reading plugs can be an inexpensive way to get an idea of what the A/F is doing. Read up on how to do that. If they still read rich after a new O2 and ecu reset, start checking things like the MAP sensor, FPR, injectors, TPS, IAT, stuff like that. If you know someone with hondata who can help you, you can log all the sensors and see if anything looks odd. P13 ecu's are notoriously rich in VTEC (but not as rich as you were getting), so a chip tuned for your setup or a s100 or similar hondata setup would be ideal, though a little pricey. My H22 made the most power at around 13.3-13.5:1 A/F. And like other people were saying, a tuneup never hurts. Check the compression, timing, ignition components, etc. Ohh, one more thought, it could be a clogged cat (in part, but still doesn't account for the a/f). I have seen that happen before. Good luck...