Been having an on/off vibration in prelude... with a slight clicking sound... feels like a big rock is in my tire and smacking the ground everytime it goes around... sometimes it does it... sometimes it drives perfectly fine ???

Took it in to be checked out, on the rack mechanic showed me the inner cv boot is busted and the driveshaft on the drivers side is real lose (has alot of play in it)
He says i need to replace the whole thing.

Cost $240.00 bones for parts and install....

How hard of a job is this to do ??? Doesnt really matter cause my tools where stolen and the apartments i live in now dont allow that sort of thing
Anyways, wanted to check to see if you guys with any experience think is a fair price for the job....

He also says i should do both of them (drivers side and passenger side) just in case.... but, the other one isnt busted and there is no play in it... So I dont see why i should do both of them right away???

Need some quick answers am supost to take it in at 8am tomorrow.

Thanks

 

it isn't a hard job, but if you are out of tools, and live in an apartment with little workspace and some toighties who frown on that sorta thing you are prob up ***** creek man.

pretty much you have to take off the tire, drain all tranny fluid, remove the axle nut (can require use of impact wrench and large socket) then you need the 32mm ball joint seperator tool to seperate the bottom ball joint, the pinch bolt for the front suspension fork needs to come off, then the fork can be removed with it's thru bolt too. With the knuckle pretty freed for movement, you can slide the cv shaft out, then using a screwdriver at the transmission end you gently pry the axle till it pops out.

putting the new driveshaft back in is usually the most troublesome - because it takes a bit for it to get back into place... there have been a few posts with people struggling with that.

if your other boot isn't worn thru.. you could potentially leave it for now.. but the only way to see if it's on it's way aswell would be to go to a big *** parking lot, turn the car really sharp and with a little brake pressure (so it's under load) accelerate. if you hear clicking in both directions you might as well do em both.

I have cv shafts sitting on my floor ready for install. i'm just too lazy to do it, but mine aren't worn out yet, the boots are just almost cracked thru- yoikes.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flashmang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Cost $240.00 bones for parts and install....

How hard of a job is this to do ??? Doesnt really matter cause my tools where stolen and the apartments i live in now dont allow that sort of thing
Anyways, wanted to check to see if you guys with any experience think is a fair price for the job....

He also says i should do both of them (drivers side and passenger side) just in case.... but, the other one isnt busted and there is no play in it... So I dont see why i should do both of them right away???

Need some quick answers am supost to take it in at 8am tomorrow.

Thanks </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's not a really difficult job. It takes me an hour and change to do axles if everything goes smoothly. Parts should be around $50 with core and labor i can't imagine being more than an hour for a place with a lift, powertools, and whatnot.

don't need to do both at the same time. my passenger side axle is the OEM unit from 77,000 miles ago...driver's side is the 3rd replacement axle

 

by the way $240 is just for one side

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Altilude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> then you need the 32mm ball joint seperator tool to seperate the bottom ball joint, the pinch bolt for the front suspension fork needs to come off, then the fork can be removed with it's thru bolt too.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nah, you don't need to seperate the bottom ball joint or the tie rod for that matter.

Just undo the axle nut, the 2 lca bolts, and the sway bar link.

You will have plenty of play to get the axle out after that

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SKDRCR &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nah, you don't need to seperate the bottom ball joint or the tie rod for that matter.

Just undo the axle nut, the 2 lca bolts, and the sway bar link.

You will have plenty of play to get the axle out after that </TD></TR></TABLE>

I usually unbolt the UCA and suspension fork and have someone push down on the UCA until i can grab the axle out.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by flashmang &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">by the way $240 is just for one side</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's ******* rediculous.

 

can you elaborate why this is rediculous ?

mechanics have to make a living too dont they, however i dont wanna get ripped.

 

manchester honda list accord and civic REMANUFACTED driveshaft units at & $125.00... and prelude parts are usually more expensive plus i have ABS is that effects anything and i am not getting remanufacted... so it looks like price is ok

 

i picked up my drivers side axel for 65.00$ from carquest with a lifetime warranty, if i tear it out, ill go get a new one. My lift was occupied so i did it in my yard in under 45 minutes, with a jack and powertools, and no u dont have to drain all the tranny fluid, i took my axel out, stuffed a rag in the hole and only had to barely top it up when i put the new one it..........