tools required
10mm open end wrench for battery
soldering iron
solder
soldering flux
electrical tape
ratchet
9" extension for ratchet
10mm deep well socket
wire cutters


1- disconnect negative battery terminal.
2 - remove carpeting covering ECU.
3 - using a 10mm deep well socket remove the 4 nuts holding the ecu plate in place.
4 - unplug ECU and remove.
5 - follow the provided written instructions that pertain to your ECU.
A. take your wire cutters and using the proper cut depth cut the shielding around the wire. when you can rotate the wire cutter around the entire wire push back while holding onto the opposite side of the wire.

B. Wrap the wire from the o2 simulator around the now exposed wire going to the ECU.

C. coat the exposed wires with soldering flux.
D. melt a small amount of solder onto the tip of the soldering iron and tap the wires until they are coated in solder. when completed the wires should not be able to move from each other.
E. wrap the soldered connection with electrical tape tightly.
F. Repeat for the other 4 wires.

6 - Place o2 simulator behind wire harness

7 - replace the ECU
8 - plug ECU back in
9 - replace 4 nuts holding ECU in place
10 - replace carpeting
11 - reconnect negative terminal for your battery
12 - test drive. if your CEL comes back on check all connections again

 

y would somebody want to do this?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Prelude91siT &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">y would somebody want to do this?</TD></TR></TABLE>

if you are running a test pipe you will throw a code for your secondary o2 sensor. your A/F ratios will go all haywire. this will prevent that.

 

incorrect.. you a/f ratios will not go "haywire".. the 2nd o2 sensor just compares its signal to the first o2 sensor to determine if the cat and first o2 sensor is working correctly.

 

can u pass the odb2 emission test with the simulator on?

 

to Doug, great write-up.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mykizism &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">incorrect.. you a/f ratios will not go "haywire".. the 2nd o2 sensor just compares its signal to the first o2 sensor to determine if the cat and first o2 sensor is working correctly.</TD></TR></TABLE>
True but if you're getting a code for the second O2 sensor the computer will go into limp mode and in limp mode the computer runs the car rich to be safe. So this device tricks the computer into thinking that the O2 sensor is actually working and the computer runs normal adjusting a/f ratios.

Awesome mod I think its a definate must for a test pipe and stock computer. If I wasn't in STS class I'd do it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Behan &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> to Doug, great write-up.</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

If anyone wants it I have an o2 simulator for sale.... make an offer. I'm going to and OBDI + hondata so I wont need it.

 

I have the same O2 sim in my car. No codes for a year now.

 

added to essential links

 

Doesn't a 10 MOhm reisister work just the same?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by LudeyKrus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doesn't a 10 MOhm reisister work just the same?</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dunno, but thats a huge resistor.

the instructions say that if you are going to remove the secondary 02 to place a 1kohm resistor inbetween the two black wires. so who knows.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Doesn't a 10 MOhm reisister work just the same?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. Not on an OBD2 honda.

 

Will this work for the JDM PR3 ECU's? They have one O2 sensor for each of the collectors on the upper portion of the header..

 

awesome write-up

 

Yay. Now to get rid of that annoying heat shield rattle!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Mikeman191 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Will this work for the JDM PR3 ECU's? They have one O2 sensor for each of the collectors on the upper portion of the header..
</TD></TR></TABLE>

no, the o2 sim is only for obd2 cars that have the after cat o2 sensors.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Shakes &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

i dunno, but thats a huge resistor.

the instructions say that if you are going to remove the secondary 02 to place a 1kohm resistor inbetween the two black wires. so who knows.</TD></TR></TABLE>

That's to trick the ECU into thinking the O2 sensor is still there (IE&gt; Those two wires are for the heater section of the 4-wire O2 sensors). Without that hooked up the ECU will see an open circuit and throw a code.

 

Nice write up. Could you tell me where you bought that O2 simulator?? I want to go with a test pipe but not before I do something like this.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">True but if you're getting a code for the second O2 sensor the computer will go into limp mode and in limp mode the computer runs the car rich to be safe. </TD></TR></TABLE>

From personal experience, I believe the computer only goes into limp mode when the check engine light is actually flashing. If your check engine light is just on, then the car will no enter limp mode. Most cars operate this way, where if the light is on, it's just a warning that something smaller is wrong and to get if fixed soon. If the check engine light is actually flashing, then that means something's really f'ed up and you need to get the **** to a shop now.

I had that happen to me. My check engine light was on for a year or so because of my 2ndary O2. No biggy.. car ran fine, etc. Then one time heading up a mountain after trying an electronic circuit to bypass the EGR to keep the CEL off, the light actually started blinking, the car had no power, wouldn't revv very high, and was definantly running rich as hell. So as long as the light isn't blinking the car won't go into the "limp mode"

 

holy ****, ok i just saw that this thread was brought back from the dead by the guy above me... my bad!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RAB &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
True but if you're getting a code for the second O2 sensor the computer will go into limp mode</TD></TR></TABLE>
No, it won't.

 

Yeah i just need to know where i can get one. Here in MD they don't do tailpipe emission testing anymore, they plug in to your OBDII port, so if i have any CEL on I'll fail.

 

an option is maybe reset the ECU, and have it done right after that. Whenever I do this is takes a while for the CEL to come back on because of the O2... so if it stays off long enough you might be able to pass... right?