Choices, td-60u td-61u Ext coil < which I'm leaning towards or td-89u (chassis 01 lude) I have a short block high comp. Forged internals, sleeved h22a4 coming from GE mfg. Pro1 cams, full S2 valvetrain. S300 obd2a-obd1 conv. Harness, DW 420cc high imp. Injectors. I want to be fully obd1 so I can tune Ex. Cam as well. So what ignitor should I get. I included chassis to show I have usdm obd2 ext. Coil and ignitor right now, so should I go with the 61u? Are the sensors in the 61u and my current ignitor the same? What's the difference between mine and the 61u for ex. Is the obd1 ignitor missing a sensor or is just moved to somewhere else and that's why it makes the ex. Cam tunable? Need some help and clarity but most of all can a knowledgable person just confirm which one I should go ahead and get.

 

I just went through this exact same ordeal lol... Long story short, get the TD-61U, It has all 3 sensors. Get a legit obd1 dizzy too, you can manually adjust the ignition timing then. Obd2 dizzies use vacuum lines to adjust.

Im confused on the cam issue.. The distributor has nothing to do with that, or any other tuning issues. You need adjustable cam gears or a tuning program to adjust it through a laptop.

 

In-case anyone is sick of reading stupid million posts I collected this


>>> If you want to be able to adjust your cam timing you will need to switch to an internal coil distributor or a distributor that has the tdc sensor inside of it instead of on the oil pump. If you do switch to a distributor with the sensor inside of it you will need to re-wire the harness and distributor plug. <<<

From Phearable.net sales

 

I think you may have a few things confused...

The CPS thats in the oil pump, and thats a second one. Obd2 need two, one in distributor and one on the crank. Obd1 only needs 1 cps to work, so the pump/crank sensor is not needed any longer. All you need is a TD-61U, which has all 3 sensors you need. If you have a A4 harness you may need to run wires from plug located near pump.

As for adjusting the "cam" timing, i think he is referring to the ignition timing. The distributor adjusts ignition timing, and the cams are mechanical timing. Two separate things.

Obd1 dizzies can be adjusted manually, with a timing gun. Obd2 uses vacuum lines to adjust the ignition timing. The only internal H series dizzy is the Obd0 jdm ones.

You three options are;

-Buy a obd0 jdm dizzy, and get a wire jumper to go from dizzy to pump plug on harness.

-Buy a Td-61U and use a dizzy jumper obd2-to-obd1 and run wire extension to plug on harness by pump.

-Buy a td-61U and buy a obd1 harness and plug and play, nothing more needed.

 

I wouldnt call a jdm h22 internal coil distributor obd0. Its identical to a 90-91 honda accord distributor.

 

http://cdn3.volusion.com/ntqwj.ytcvl/v/vspfiles/photos/Dis-Prelude-2-1-2T.jpg?1402926749
ya this and a 61u should work http://www.rywire.com/product-p/dis-prelude-2-1.htm

 

--->>> your absolutely correct I'm prolly gonna grab the Rywire adapter with a 61u ... and the reason I'm switching cause if I want to adjust ex. Cam timing you need the obd1 - the obd2 dizzys two sensors you were talking about complicates this because they need to be in sink with each other. If you adjust ex. Cam timing on obd2 the two sensors are mismatched giving I believe a code 9 ,, its kinda reminds me like obd1 O2 - vs - obd2 O2's you only really need one but new obd2 emissions was like now we need a second to keep you kids in line lol. And I want to be able to adjust ignition and cam timing, hence reason for all of this.

 

Yes and No, true they are identical internally. But F and H series dizzies have different mounting points correct? So you couldnt use usdm internal coil F dizzy on a H.

But yeah its not 100% correct usage of it, its really is obd1. When I hear obd1 i think usdm. I wanted to emphasize the jdm version, since no other internal dizzy is available that fit the p13/pde.

 

Im currently using my accord dizzy on my h22 since the bearing went out and started slewing the red dust of death all over the inside

I can confirm that with the exception of the marking, they are the same.

At some point im gonna pick up a new bearing from napa and swap it in.

 

So you swapped the F's dizzy's guts into the H's dizzy's housing right? Ive heard of this being done before. But I swear i would have bet anything sohc distributors wouldnt work on dohc heads... As in a direct F-2-H bolt on plug and play swap. Thats why people swap the guts to begin with, because there was some issue using the whole F dizzy.

I havent owned a F dizzy, so I may be wrong.... Hmmm...