Cylinder Position Sensor
Im trying to locate a Cylinder Position Sensor for a 96 vtec prelude. I've been told that the only way to obtain one, is out of a new or used distributor. But, I don't really feel like buying an entire distributor just to repair the sensor. Anyone know where to get one?
Actually, im not absolutely certain that this part has failed. I think it has, but im not the best mechanic around either. Going to pull the distributor tomorrow morning to make sure its damaged. And unfortunately, it looks like the plan is to throw some money at a new distributor by tomorrow afternoon.
Car was running fine, and the engine just shut off. It made no noise prior to shutting down. Engine now will not start. Code 9 began to show.
Distributor looks like its new, but its almost a decade old. Clean, no rust, nice and tight. I get spark out of the coil, but not on the other side of the distributor cap.
Have had this car for 8 years now, and never had any problems until recently. 3 days ago the top plastic tank on the radiator cracked. Not too sure why, temps have been fine. Replaced the radiator with a new metal tank, and it ran without trouble. For 3 days, and now having a code 9, and no spark. Im now wondering if the damaged radiator was just indicative of another much more serious problem.
Would appreciate any help or advice. Thanks!
Modified by Eparr at 2:51 PM 7/16/2004
Actually, im not absolutely certain that this part has failed. I think it has, but im not the best mechanic around either. Going to pull the distributor tomorrow morning to make sure its damaged. And unfortunately, it looks like the plan is to throw some money at a new distributor by tomorrow afternoon.
Car was running fine, and the engine just shut off. It made no noise prior to shutting down. Engine now will not start. Code 9 began to show.
Distributor looks like its new, but its almost a decade old. Clean, no rust, nice and tight. I get spark out of the coil, but not on the other side of the distributor cap.
Have had this car for 8 years now, and never had any problems until recently. 3 days ago the top plastic tank on the radiator cracked. Not too sure why, temps have been fine. Replaced the radiator with a new metal tank, and it ran without trouble. For 3 days, and now having a code 9, and no spark. Im now wondering if the damaged radiator was just indicative of another much more serious problem.
Would appreciate any help or advice. Thanks!
Modified by Eparr at 2:51 PM 7/16/2004
CYP is in the distributor and yes if it's bad you get a new or rebuilt distributor.
If you're not getting any spark...have you ever changed the cap and rotor?
If you're not getting any spark...have you ever changed the cap and rotor?
Thanks satan_srv, Thats what i was afraid of.
I haven't changed the cap/rotor since i purchased the car used. I just took a look at the cap/rotor and they both appear clean. Minor wear, no burns, very little carbon on all the contacts. I'll pop a new cap/rotor on it just for safe measure.
Not too sure how the cyp sensor works to be honest. I haven't spent too much time with the car yet, but from what i did see, Its got spark from the coil, and through the primary wire, but no spark on the other side of the distributor cap. I need to verify that though. I just might not of been able to see the spark. I'll grab ahold of the wire, crank it over, and know for sure.
Hrm. and check the timing belt..
I haven't changed the cap/rotor since i purchased the car used. I just took a look at the cap/rotor and they both appear clean. Minor wear, no burns, very little carbon on all the contacts. I'll pop a new cap/rotor on it just for safe measure.
Not too sure how the cyp sensor works to be honest. I haven't spent too much time with the car yet, but from what i did see, Its got spark from the coil, and through the primary wire, but no spark on the other side of the distributor cap. I need to verify that though. I just might not of been able to see the spark. I'll grab ahold of the wire, crank it over, and know for sure.

Hrm. and check the timing belt..
If you do need a new distributor, I found this guy on ebay that sells them pretty cheap. they have a webpage you can order off of for the same price. the address is http://www.distributorking.com/ or his user name on ebay was flying_pat. Just an FYI, I do not work for them or anything.
well at one point my screw that hold the rotor on in the distributor fell out and detroyed my cyp and the internal cam lob the the cyp uses to sense,
i got a junk yar distributor took the sensor i needed and you can disassemble the ditributor and replace the part you need, its really easy. then pop the pins out of the harness for the junk sensor and once the new sensor is installed just plug the pins into the correct place, its kind of hard to describe, let me kow if you want mor einfo
also i even replaced the cam lob in the distribotor that got fucked,
but i thoguth on the 96 it had the cyp sensor down by the lowe timing belt gear??
i got a junk yar distributor took the sensor i needed and you can disassemble the ditributor and replace the part you need, its really easy. then pop the pins out of the harness for the junk sensor and once the new sensor is installed just plug the pins into the correct place, its kind of hard to describe, let me kow if you want mor einfo
also i even replaced the cam lob in the distribotor that got fucked,
but i thoguth on the 96 it had the cyp sensor down by the lowe timing belt gear??
Well, i spent a little time on the car and its not looking good. Wishing now, that i only had to replace the distributor.
Picked up a cap/rotor.. Popped the distributor cap off.. Turned over the engine and noticed that the rotor was not spinning.
Removed the valve cover and set my sorry eyes on a timing belt with a hell of a lot of play in it. The belt walked most of the way off the pulleys too, and had a good two inches of play. ug. Im not too happy about it.
Needless to say, it was a bit much for me to repair myself. Had it towed to a Honda mechanic. Replacing the timing belt and if it still has compression -- a new waterpump too. But, im guessing it will probably be toast. Any ideas what the chances are that it will run properly?? 5% .. 10%? Any replacement ideas?
Sephro, i took a look at distributorking's items on ebay. Great prices compared to what i've seen for similar distributors. Thanks for the tip!
Prelittlelude, Thanks for the offer of assistance! But, sadly, i think the distributor is in fine shape. Im curious though, did the engine turn over with the damaged cyp?
Picked up a cap/rotor.. Popped the distributor cap off.. Turned over the engine and noticed that the rotor was not spinning.
Removed the valve cover and set my sorry eyes on a timing belt with a hell of a lot of play in it. The belt walked most of the way off the pulleys too, and had a good two inches of play. ug. Im not too happy about it.Needless to say, it was a bit much for me to repair myself. Had it towed to a Honda mechanic. Replacing the timing belt and if it still has compression -- a new waterpump too. But, im guessing it will probably be toast. Any ideas what the chances are that it will run properly?? 5% .. 10%? Any replacement ideas?
Sephro, i took a look at distributorking's items on ebay. Great prices compared to what i've seen for similar distributors. Thanks for the tip!
Prelittlelude, Thanks for the offer of assistance! But, sadly, i think the distributor is in fine shape. Im curious though, did the engine turn over with the damaged cyp?
If you said the car was running fine when you turned it off, then chances are its probably all ok, because it wouldnt be running to well if all your valves got bent and pistons dented/broken, i think that once you get that new timing belt on there it should be ok, btw how are going to check your compression #s without a timing belt? you're going to have to the work on it done before you can check the compression #s
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Heya Speedra. It was running fine only prior to the engine shutting off while driving the car. The car was running and in drive. There was no noise or indications of a problem. I had no idea anything was amiss until the engine simply shut off. It hasn't run since.
I dunno how to check compression without a timing belt either. Mechanic's popping one on. Hoping i get lucky on the gamble.
I dunno how to check compression without a timing belt either. Mechanic's popping one on. Hoping i get lucky on the gamble.
Well, word from the mechanic is that the valves are shot.
He's recomending an engine replacement for $5.5k, or just to sell him the car. Neither is going to happen.
Looking for any advice on what to do? Whats the chances that the pistons are messed up? What would you do? Buy a new preassembled head and drop it in? Or replace the valves rings bearings? Car has 100,500 miles on it. Any brand name recomendations? Any other options come to mind?
Thanks in advance!
He's recomending an engine replacement for $5.5k, or just to sell him the car. Neither is going to happen.
Looking for any advice on what to do? Whats the chances that the pistons are messed up? What would you do? Buy a new preassembled head and drop it in? Or replace the valves rings bearings? Car has 100,500 miles on it. Any brand name recomendations? Any other options come to mind?
Thanks in advance!
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