cooling the lude down
ok guys did some searching around and there is some info but not much on our practically on fire ludes. i am trying hopelessly to cool this beast down in this hot weather. i have a boosted h23 with a drag 4 kit and after driving around for a little bit if i was to touch the hood i would have 3rd degree burns. things i have done so far are mugen thermo, fan switch, lift the back of the hood and a cooling plate.
i have a few more ideas of what i could do but not sure if they will really work. like do pusher fans work better than puller fans? would a half rad help or hurt cooling? if you guys could throw in some ideas that would be great.
i have a few more ideas of what i could do but not sure if they will really work. like do pusher fans work better than puller fans? would a half rad help or hurt cooling? if you guys could throw in some ideas that would be great.
mix more water with coolant works awsome. or straight water, water might cause corrosion though. just drain when it starts getting below zero again and mix 50/50 or 60/40 is okay too
Get a turbo blanket and exhaust wrap..Or send your ex. manifold and turbine side out to get jethot coated. Wrap your downpipe all the way under the motor.You could even wrap all of your charge piping. If you got a half sized but nice radiator(koyo,etc.) it might cool down a little. You could rig up a little sprayer nozzle in front of the intercooler to mist water from your washer bottle (like mitsu evos)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Water Wetter</TD></TR></TABLE>
what he said, guys at the track swear by it
what he said, guys at the track swear by it
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i just switched from a 50/50 to water and water wetter. the radiator is brand new. i would love to put a full size koyo but the turbo wont allow it. also next year i will have a different manifold and turbo so it will stick passed the rad. but lets keep the good ideas coming. thanks so far
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Water Wetter</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludekid4323 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what he said, guys at the track swear by it</TD></TR></TABLE>
I run it in my Stock radiator in 90*+ track conditions with ease! I don't feel the typical High heat power loss and I can turn 20min sessions while maintaining the 1/2 way up heat line!
I use a C&R in my race car......the car laughs at high heat days!
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ludekid4323 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
what he said, guys at the track swear by it</TD></TR></TABLE>
I run it in my Stock radiator in 90*+ track conditions with ease! I don't feel the typical High heat power loss and I can turn 20min sessions while maintaining the 1/2 way up heat line!
I use a C&R in my race car......the car laughs at high heat days!
I agree with the Redline Water wetter....just mix it with water , no coolant, or its not as effective.I live in a town where it constantly reaches 110-120 every summer,and a couple years ago had problems with overheating,so I tried it out.....never again.The stuff works great!My friends 69 gmc truck would overheat all the time,and I told him about it,he bought 1 bottle and said his truck completely stopped over heating.Its kinda spendy,but worth every penny.
Also as a last resort......ever think about a cryo kit?U know like a noz kit....but it has dry ice(co2) or something really cold to spray on the intercoller or radiator.They have some on ebay for like 200$,I know thats an expensive solution....but its cheaper than blowing up ur motor.Just an idea if nothing else works.
ya i already noticed a diffence with the water wetter since i put it in last night. wasnt too bad only about 6 bucks. i am going to do the cryo2 for track days does anyone know how ling it keeps the intercooler cold say on a 100 degree day?
I'd agree with what a few of the other guys said, basically just coat or wrap anything you can
I did tests on my lude with and without heat wrap on certain things, and even just on a basic N/A bolt-on lude I still noticed significant temp drops. With the header wrapped, ambient temps in the bay after 20 minuets of hard driving were down about 37% compared to after 20 mins of hard driving with no wrap. I also wrapped the intake tube and noticed intake temps were lower as well...I forget the number tho
I wanted to experiment with wrapping more things (radiator hoses, fuel lines, etc.) but I ran out of wrap
EDIT: It is not recommended to use thermo wrap on an intake tube unless it is a cold air intake. Why? Because thermo wrap can either keep things hot or keep them cold, it all depends on what you are wrapping. Wrap something hot and it keeps the heat in. Wrap something cold and it keeps the cold in. If you wrap a short ram intake, the tube will heat up over time from sucking in the hot air from the bay and the wrap will retain this heat actually making things worse than if you had no wrap at all. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
EDIT AGAIN: I think wrapping/coating all of the intercooler/charge piping as well as the down pipe and then thermo bagging or coating the turbo housing would have a very notictible effect on your car. Not only would you get the lowered temps you are looking for and added performance due to the lowered bay/intake temps, but I think you would see a gain in power due to increased exhaust gas velocity as well. The more heat you keep in the exhaust the faster it moves. So that means, theoretically, a faster spooling turbo, etc., blah blah blah, my post was too long, all that good stuff.
-Chris
I did tests on my lude with and without heat wrap on certain things, and even just on a basic N/A bolt-on lude I still noticed significant temp drops. With the header wrapped, ambient temps in the bay after 20 minuets of hard driving were down about 37% compared to after 20 mins of hard driving with no wrap. I also wrapped the intake tube and noticed intake temps were lower as well...I forget the number tho
I wanted to experiment with wrapping more things (radiator hoses, fuel lines, etc.) but I ran out of wrap
EDIT: It is not recommended to use thermo wrap on an intake tube unless it is a cold air intake. Why? Because thermo wrap can either keep things hot or keep them cold, it all depends on what you are wrapping. Wrap something hot and it keeps the heat in. Wrap something cold and it keeps the cold in. If you wrap a short ram intake, the tube will heat up over time from sucking in the hot air from the bay and the wrap will retain this heat actually making things worse than if you had no wrap at all. Just thought I'd throw that out there.
EDIT AGAIN: I think wrapping/coating all of the intercooler/charge piping as well as the down pipe and then thermo bagging or coating the turbo housing would have a very notictible effect on your car. Not only would you get the lowered temps you are looking for and added performance due to the lowered bay/intake temps, but I think you would see a gain in power due to increased exhaust gas velocity as well. The more heat you keep in the exhaust the faster it moves. So that means, theoretically, a faster spooling turbo, etc., blah blah blah, my post was too long, all that good stuff.
-Chris
yes very good points
but wrapping exhaust header can also cause premature corrosion. It will trap moisture in! If using stainless your okay to wrap your header but other than that i wouldn't wrap header.
intake on a CAI is a good idea to insulate!
nice post preludeguy
but wrapping exhaust header can also cause premature corrosion. It will trap moisture in! If using stainless your okay to wrap your header but other than that i wouldn't wrap header.
intake on a CAI is a good idea to insulate!
nice post preludeguy
If you ride around with your windows down, turn your heater on. It will draw heat for the engine bay and cool it off. That's what I have to do right now when I get caught in traffic. (fan not working, replacing it tonight
)
BTW Pusher fan for traffic and city driving
You don't want to draw more hot summer air into the engine bay while sitting in traffic.
) BTW Pusher fan for traffic and city driving
You don't want to draw more hot summer air into the engine bay while sitting in traffic.
yeah, i was doing that for a bit too. just set the fan to window defrost so you dont get heat soaked and pass out and crash, and all that wonderfully fun stuff.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by mattsnooz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yeah, i was doing that for a bit too. just set the fan to window defrost so you dont get heat soaked and pass out and crash, and all that wonderfully fun stuff.</TD></TR></TABLE>
I left out that little detail
I left out that little detail
something that i found cooled off my engine a little was a good vented carbon fiber hood. it helps let the hot engine compartment air out of the engine compartment. i also agree with everything said in the forum if you wrap up your manifold and downpipes it diffinitly helps with heat in the engine compartment. great thread
great stuff guys thanks.
i just decided to do another thing that will help while driving. i was watching the le mans race and it made me decide to box in the whole radiator area and direct more air throught the rad that way. i will let you know how much that helps as well.
i just decided to do another thing that will help while driving. i was watching the le mans race and it made me decide to box in the whole radiator area and direct more air throught the rad that way. i will let you know how much that helps as well.
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