So I have a 93 prelude with H22a1...

We have all the coolant lines hooked up in the car, no leaks any wear in the motor. I'm having an issue with air in the coolant lines somewere!

We at 1st had the over flow bottle line from the rad hooked up, we would open the bleeder valve and then air would start flowing into the overflow bottle ...
So we sealled off the over flow bottles passage way. Now if I open the bleeder valve all I get is white foamish looking coolant, its consistant and does not go away even after 3-5mins of idel....
Thus said any ideas? I can't leave the prelude ideling for more than 10-15mins from a cold start up as it almost pegs the thermo....

other issues is this is causing the car to be extreamly boggy after 5mins of driving...

 

Thermostat not opening? Check your coolant level in the rad and follow the book's guidelines on bleeding the coolant system.

 

I have no thermostat, it was removed because it was not opening. I have tryed to bleed the coolant, problem is... I have blocked the overflow bottle line other wise air just pisses out into it, and not out of the bleeder valve. If I open the bleeder valve just white/ green foam comes out... and if I open the cap it stops then the rad turns into mount rushmore.. its running a 60%water 40% coolant mix right now...

 

you need to fill the overflow bottle up with coolant so its not sucking air when you open the bleeder and chasing your tail, also could be a blown head gasket causing air to get into coolant system.

 

well I have the overflow bottles line air tight and pluged for now as if it were never there, did a vacum test on it... Blown headgasket on a brand new build? No coolant oil mix.... no white exhaust yet... basicly none of the signs of one... anyother idea's?

 

hmm, well there's the fitv that coolant runs through, I would try looping the coolant lines for that to bypass it and see if it stops getting air in it. A bad seal there under the throttle body might cause air to get in, idk

 

so far I have tryed the fallowing....


1.Cap on, with Rad full of 60/40 mix... engine on and at idel... open bleeder valve...no overflow bottle line, line for bottle pluged... Result was green/white foam... not bleeding well, more like spitting alot for 5mins....


2. cap on, with rad full of 60/40mix, engine on and at idel... open bleeder valve... overflow bottle full and with lines in it.... result, overflow bottle exploding with antifreeze all over the ground....

3. cap off, with rad full of 60/40mix, engine at idel... open bleeder valve, overflow bottle not on and line plugged... result... Mount rushmore out of rad...

4. I do not beleive there is a headgasket issue, no smoke coming out of the car at all, no buring of oil... engine was built 500miles ago... it has no emition equipement to speak off.... car idels at 2k-2.2k but it has Brain crower stage 3 cams with auj cam gears set all the way to +... just really pullezed is all... its like air is getting into engine somewere but when off not leaking anyfluild out the air hole in which air is being sucked intoit durn running

 

i'll double check, but I beleive im already running a bypass but I will double check in a few... thanks m8!

 

So if the car is off, and you have the bleeder open, and add fluid to the rad, does any come out the bleeder? I fill when off until the bleeder flows, then close it and fill the rad completely. Then fill the overflow bottle to the max mark, and run the car for a bit. Since you have no thermostat, it should cycle immediately. Let it run for a few minutes, but not get hot, and try bleeding it again while running.


Not having your overflow hooked up isn't good, since the fluid needs to be there to fill the system as air works its way up and out.

 

My problem is... if I have an overflow bottle pressent all the air goes screaming into it no matter what I do... the bleeder valve will not fuction with out it being pluged, its as if the rad is acting as an air intake lmao.. but no leaks... I have tryed the above... it was a mess but i will try again maybe the line wasent tight enough or some crap

 

Cracked head? You could pressurize the cyl with compressed air and listen for where its leaking. If the head is cracked, it should put this air into the cooling system. Here is a good youtube vid on how to do it
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgrfT0LFMhc. Leak down test.

 

So after much of a pain in the butt... the head gasket failed near cyl 1-2 and started to force air into the coolant system... yippee

 

Bummer, luckily if the head and block are ok, the head gasket isn't too big of a deal!

 

Thanks for the update, it's always good when people post their solutions.

 

Yeah, GL with getting it fixed! Post back if/when you do get it fixed.
Mike

 

I would send the head to a machine shop and have them pressure test it to
make sure it's not cracked or warped as well.

 

+1