Ok, so I was on my way to school today. And I was rolling along in the prelude, wasn't getting on it hard or anything. So I get to the stop light, where I have to turn left to the entrance of school, and as I start to turn before this car is coming, my car just shuts down, and luckily I had enough momentum to take me in the drive where I pull over. So I crank my car again, cranks, but wont start. So I pop the hood to see what the problem could be, and come to find out, my distributor had fallen off. I am like huh? How the hell does your distributor fall off? I only had 2 bolts in it, and obviously they werent tight enough, but 1 was still in there, and hanging, literally by a thread. So I take it out, put the dizzy back in place, my buddy pulled behind me, and had a 12 mm socket so I could tighten it, I go park, and go to class. So I get out of class, and go to my car, starts up fine. Idles fine. But it is rough on the take off, and rough when increasing RPM's and when I hit vtec, all hell broke loose, it was real jerky. So needless to say, I took it easy on the way home. So I get home, b/c I am thinking I am throwing another code(already throwing a 23 knock sensor), but I drove it last night, with the 23, and it was fine. So I go and check to see if I have another code, and sure enough I do. It came tobe a code 8, which is the Top Dead Center Sensor. My question is, where is this sensor located. And how do I fix it? whatwent wrong from last night to this morning? I am baffled and have never even heard of this. I am thinking it had something to do with my distributor falling off. But I am not sure. Please help!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcoupe94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Ok, so I was on my way to school today. And I was rolling along in the prelude, wasn't getting on it hard or anything. So I get to the stop light, where I have to turn left to the entrance of school, and as I start to turn before this car is coming, my car just shuts down, and luckily I had enough momentum to take me in the drive where I pull over. So I crank my car again, cranks, but wont start. So I pop the hood to see what the problem could be, and come to find out, my distributor had fallen off. I am like huh? How the hell does your distributor fall off? I only had 2 bolts in it, and obviously they werent tight enough, but 1 was still in there, and hanging, literally by a thread. So I take it out, put the dizzy back in place, my buddy pulled behind me, and had a 12 mm socket so I could tighten it, I go park, and go to class. So I get out of class, and go to my car, starts up fine. Idles fine. But it is rough on the take off, and rough when increasing RPM's and when I hit vtec, all hell broke loose, it was real jerky. So needless to say, I took it easy on the way home. So I get home, b/c I am thinking I am throwing another code(already throwing a 23 knock sensor), but I drove it last night, with the 23, and it was fine. So I go and check to see if I have another code, and sure enough I do. It came tobe a code 8, which is the Top Dead Center Sensor. My question is, where is this sensor located. And how do I fix it? whatwent wrong from last night to this morning? I am baffled and have never even heard of this. I am thinking it had something to do with my distributor falling off. But I am not sure. Please help!</TD></TR></TABLE>

It threw the TDC code when you were cranking it with the dizzy and it was not connected. I undo the 2 conectors on the dizzy when I put in a motor and crack it over untill the oil light goes out to get oil pressure. This way I know the engine is good and has oil pressure before I attpemt to start it. It will throw that code. Just clear it and start it up you should be good 2 go

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It threw the TDC code when you were cranking it with the dizzy and it was not connected. I undo the 2 conectors on the dizzy when I put in a motor and crack it over untill the oil light goes out to get oil pressure. This way I know the engine is good and has oil pressure before I attpemt to start it. It will throw that code. Just clear it and start it up you should be good 2 go </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok, I get waht you are saying about it threw it when I cranked it with the dizzy unbolted. But what do you mean to see if the engine is still good?

how do I rid myself of the code 8?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcoupe94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Ok, I get waht you are saying about it threw it when I cranked it with the dizzy unbolted. But what do you mean to see if the engine is still good?

how do I rid myself of the code 8?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha dont worrie your engine is fine. I said when i put in a new motor in a car I check it for oil pressure buy disconnecting the dizzy so it does not start on purpose. Then crank it over until I get oil pressure. It's safe way to check and make sure the bearing and oil pump are good and can atleast build oil pressure. Just clear the ecu to rid yourself of the code 8

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Haha dont worrie your engine is fine. I said when i put in a new motor in a car I check it for oil pressure buy disconnecting the dizzy so it does not start on purpose. Then crank it over until I get oil pressure. It's safe way to check and make sure the bearing and oil pump are good and can atleast build oil pressure. Just clear the ecu to rid yourself of the code 8</TD></TR></TABLE>

so resetting the ecu will rid me of the code 8??

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcoupe94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

so resetting the ecu will rid me of the code 8??</TD></TR></TABLE>

Give it a go . Also you might want to check your timing since your dizzy came off and you just put it on I am assuming you did not have a timing light with you

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by md23vtec &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Give it a go . Also you might want to check your timing since your dizzy came off and you just put it on I am assuming you did not have a timing light with you </TD></TR></TABLE>

nope...I did not have one with me. I susally carry one in my pocket too j/k

thanks for the help, oh and u wanna know something funny? I own a timing light, yet do not know how to use one... how pathetic...

one last thing, where is the sensro located? in the dizzy?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcoupe94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

nope...I did not have one with me. I susally carry one in my pocket too j/k

thanks for the help, oh and u wanna know something funny? I own a timing light, yet do not know how to use one... how pathetic...

one last thing, where is the sensro located? in the dizzy?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha If you can fit a timing light in your pocket you have big pockets Yeap it actually is the dizzy on OBD1 cars or the crank trigger on OBD2 cars but either way it will throw that code with the dizzy not connected. Hope this helps.

 

yea set the timing with a light

the reason it threw the code is because the ecu was looking for a signal when the motor read tdc and never got it....

it compares rpm and tdc sensor and uses that to control ignition and fuel.....

the tdc sensor itself is on the shaft of the distributor, there are going to be 3 black magnetic pickups inside, once, the crank position sensor, rides the part of the shaft with the 4 metal lobes, the crankshaft fluctuation sensor rides the part of the shaft with a bunch of lobes, and the tdc sensor rides the part that swirls out to only one lobe....

all of which should have a slight air gap in order to function correctly...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bb4ever &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">yea set the timing with a light

the reason it threw the code is because the ecu was looking for a signal when the motor read tdc and never got it....

it compares rpm and tdc sensor and uses that to control ignition and fuel.....

the tdc sensor itself is on the shaft of the distributor, there are going to be 3 black magnetic pickups inside, once, the crank position sensor, rides the part of the shaft with the 4 metal lobes, the crankshaft fluctuation sensor rides the part of the shaft with a bunch of lobes, and the tdc sensor rides the part that swirls out to only one lobe....

all of which should have a slight air gap in order to function correctly...</TD></TR></TABLE>

ok matt, How do I set timing with a light?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by egcoupe94 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ok matt, How do I set timing with a light?</TD></TR></TABLE>

 

my b homes, didn't see that...

loosen all the 12mm bolts holding the distributor in just enough so that you can turn it with one hand

hook the light up to the cyl #1 spark plug wire (some also need positive and nevative for other functions)

pull that little black rubber stopper outta the hole into the bellhousing, its right next to the engine code plate.....its easier to do that with the car cold or with a long pair of pliers, bc you have to reach in btw the headers and the upper radiator hose, so watch out or you'll burn youself as I have plenty of times....

go inside and jump the CEL connector, and just leave it jumped

get the light shining into that hole, and rotate the dizzy up or down until you can get that line on the flywheel perfectly inline with the little indicator....it looks like a sideways U, you want the line on the flywheel to be right in the middle....

also, the angle you wanna be looking at this from should put you right in line with how that indicator points, you shouldnt be able to see that the thing has depth, because you should be looking straight on and only see its profile...

thats it....not too bad

 

if it is an H22, timing is set by the control module in the dizzy. all you can do is check it to make sure your dizzy is working.

hook the battery connections on your timing light up. put the clamp thingy around the no1 cylinder spark plug wire. now jump the service connector under the dash. pull out the little rubber plug on the tranny housing, right next to where the engine code is. make sure the car is at operating temp, aim and shoot into the hole in the tranny. If the arrow doesnt align w/ the notch on the block, then your timing is off.

edit: I got beat to it!!!

 

youre wrong on that count^^...obd2 h22s set the timing themselves, all obd1 cars still require that you set it.....

the car really doesn't have to be at operating temp, unless your fast idle valve just goes crazy, when you jump that connector, the electronic advance is turned off, and the car runs on base timing...

 

so the 92-95 H22 would be OBD1 right? forgive my ignorance. i didn't see any indication it was an OBD1.

 

yeah anything before 96 is obd1, 96 and up is obd2

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bluedlude &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so the 92-95 H22 would be OBD1 right? forgive my ignorance. i didn't see any indication it was an OBD1.</TD></TR></TABLE>

see sig for year of my car, BTW, its a 92...

Ok, thanks so much for the help. Now i just have to get my dad to ship my timing light back to TN. He took it back with him b/c his broke, and he uses it more than I do...