Check Engine ATTS Light
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From: Drexel Hill, Pa, 19026
Well I just fixed a few leak problems with my car and had it running last night for the first time in about 2 weeks. Anyway everything seemed to be running good. Anyway I did the coolant line bypass. Everything was running good just fluxuation in idle for about 15 mins until it completely warmed up. Even when temp gauge said the motor was warm it still would idle funny for alittle bit and then idle constantly around 1000 and not move.
Anyway this morning I started the car and let it warm up for about 2 mins (not long enough i know, i was running late) but i stifted around 3k or lower until the temp gauge was halfway which is normally where it runs. The temp was in the low 40s at the time this happened this morning.After it was warmed up I gave the car a few little pushed hittin vtec through maybe 3 gears, something felt like it was slipping alittle when shifting high(around 6800 rpms). But everything ran fine i figured its just the clutch which is just a stock replacement so its not beefy so i wasnt really worried. Anyway I continue driving just normal not hitting vtec or slamming gears or anything and my idle still hasnt settled down...which is alittle odd but the car was running fine not sputtering or anything. So i pull onto the highway (476 "the blue route") and im driving alittle quick but no vtec or outrageous stuff ( like 75-80 mph at most in 5th). The car feels fine and I pull off at my exit and the traffic is all backed up (and im already late). So im sitting at this light coming off the off ramp and the car is STILL idling weird flucuating from 1000-1400 rpms but not a erratic as when the car is cold. ANd then all of a sudden after sitting there for about 5 mins I get a check chengine and ATTS light and the rpms drop a tad moving from 1000-1200 quickly. SO im like "crap". I go to engage the clutch and it does wanna catch correctly, not like a slip like a banging kind of and then once I was on the gas and had i caught i was ok but as soon as i would let off the gas (with it still in gear) i would bang kind of when getting back on the gas.
I didnt get any type of oil lights and did not see any type of leaks under the car. DO you think the looping of the lines had something to do with this ? It wouldnt make much sense though for an idle issue to affect the drivetrain ? I havent checked the code yet or switched the coolant lines back yet, which i will do once I have another car to get to autozone for get new hoses. But just by the description what do you guys think ?
Anyway this morning I started the car and let it warm up for about 2 mins (not long enough i know, i was running late) but i stifted around 3k or lower until the temp gauge was halfway which is normally where it runs. The temp was in the low 40s at the time this happened this morning.After it was warmed up I gave the car a few little pushed hittin vtec through maybe 3 gears, something felt like it was slipping alittle when shifting high(around 6800 rpms). But everything ran fine i figured its just the clutch which is just a stock replacement so its not beefy so i wasnt really worried. Anyway I continue driving just normal not hitting vtec or slamming gears or anything and my idle still hasnt settled down...which is alittle odd but the car was running fine not sputtering or anything. So i pull onto the highway (476 "the blue route") and im driving alittle quick but no vtec or outrageous stuff ( like 75-80 mph at most in 5th). The car feels fine and I pull off at my exit and the traffic is all backed up (and im already late). So im sitting at this light coming off the off ramp and the car is STILL idling weird flucuating from 1000-1400 rpms but not a erratic as when the car is cold. ANd then all of a sudden after sitting there for about 5 mins I get a check chengine and ATTS light and the rpms drop a tad moving from 1000-1200 quickly. SO im like "crap". I go to engage the clutch and it does wanna catch correctly, not like a slip like a banging kind of and then once I was on the gas and had i caught i was ok but as soon as i would let off the gas (with it still in gear) i would bang kind of when getting back on the gas.
I didnt get any type of oil lights and did not see any type of leaks under the car. DO you think the looping of the lines had something to do with this ? It wouldnt make much sense though for an idle issue to affect the drivetrain ? I havent checked the code yet or switched the coolant lines back yet, which i will do once I have another car to get to autozone for get new hoses. But just by the description what do you guys think ?
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From: Drexel Hill, Pa, 19026
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Revi-Ra »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The ATTS light comes one when ever the engine light comes on too. I would read the engine code first and see what it throws and go from there.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Yea i know but im thinkn maybe its a fuel thing because as i was tryin to catch the clutch the rpms were jumping up and down
Yea i know but im thinkn maybe its a fuel thing because as i was tryin to catch the clutch the rpms were jumping up and down
Thread Starter
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Drexel Hill, Pa, 19026
I switched everything back to normal...idle is bad to normal. Clutch is engaging fine everything feels good. But i still have the CEL. I disconected the battery for a few mins. and codes still came back. How long do they usually take to clear if i fixed the problem ?
Modified by lude98SH at 7:31 PM 10/26/2006
Modified by lude98SH at 7:31 PM 10/26/2006
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: Drexel Hill, Pa, 19026
The code was 0505. I had the code cleared and havent had any problems with it coming back. Its just weird that nobody else seems to have gotten a check engine from the coolant line bypass mod. It makes sense that that was the code I got because that was the only thing altered on the car but why did it not go away once I switched everything back and why did I not get the light right away after I started the car with the lines looped? I probably drove the car 20 miles before I had a problem with a CEL.
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Same problem when my engine was cleaned with pressured water. Rpm stopped at about 3k. The problem was moisture in my cam sensor. After airing the sensor out, both lights went out and there hasn't been any problems.
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