Hey,
My 97 prelude cel recently came on its throwing code 9 - No. 1 Cylinder Position (CYP Sensor) I took it into Honda and was told that it was a faulty distributor assembly and was given a quote for the part and labour. I was wondering if anyone else has had this code on before, any suggestions or tips/fixes would be awesome!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dave0303 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hey,
My 97 prelude cel recently came on its throwing code 9 - No. 1 Cylinder Position (CYP Sensor) I took it into Honda and was told that it was a faulty distributor assembly and was given a quote for the part and labour. I was wondering if anyone else has had this code on before, any suggestions or tips/fixes would be awesome! </TD></TR></TABLE>

It's an easy fix with a manual you can get online. You could also purchase a distributor on here for alot cheaper

 

Simple...Get a distributor at a parts store and change yours. I've had this twice. Each with both my ludes. Its the distributor.

 

you have to replace the distributor.

 

I sent you a message with a link for a manual, so check your pm's b/c i know were not allowed to post it

 

thanks chron I can't send instant messages yet cuz i guess im still in the trial version I got two Instant messages is there anyway I can pull them back up? cuz i closed thm right away

 

go to "my profile" then "instant message history"

 

Oh okay, I was looking at that and it was saying I don't have permission to view IM history guess I have to wait till trial version is over. About the distributor would I need a certain type/model, if I were to purchase one at a autoshop? (97 prelude manual base model just so you guys know) When I took it in to honda I was told that they would have to order one, and there was only one in Canada.

 

get your trial account done with and go to the classifieds section and search for a distributor. also put something in your signature saying you need an OBDII distributor. Thats what i did and someone contacted me in 2 days. got it for 60 shipped and it works great. fixed my CYP issue. New distributor will cost upwards of 150 dollars.

 

I have an obd2 distributor that will work. Also has a brand new oem cap and rotor. here is the link

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2103158

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ziptie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have an obd2 distributor that will work. Also has a brand new oem cap and rotor. here is the link

https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2103158
</TD></TR></TABLE>

dave0303- this is the friend i was talking about with the distributor for sale, but i guess you can't get my PM

 

Alright I'll have to take a look into a few things first.. I got another question I was told that the this issue can cause mis-fires and stalls. It looks like when I'm driving in low RPMS I'm gettin poor throttle response, kicks in after like one second. Its happened once before I let the car rest for 2-3 hours then took it out again just to check things out and everything was fine. Any ideas as to what is going on?

 

hey dude,
did you ever find the solution to this problem? I am having the same issue with a rebuilt d16a1. Is it really the distributor?

 

yes it is the dist. i had the same problem and so have alot of people. its the distributor.

 

Hey AK77
No havent fixed the issue yet, I'm pretty positive that it is the distributor, took it to honda and thats what I was told. I'm probably gonna buy a brand new distributor and install it myself, because I was quote $800 to do this with them (parts and labour) Might take a couple weeks before I can get this fixed, hope to have it repaired soon. I'll keep you posted as to what happens

 

So you know I tried different spark plug wires - code went away and came back once the engine got hot. Also, sanded down the crap off the rotor - problem went away and came back once the engine got hot. It seems to be heat related or may be over heating is being caused by a bad distributor. It gets close to the end of white zone, never gets past the white end on the temp gauge, comes back down a little after a few minutes of driving. I'm gonna change the coolant tomorrow and will post the results. (I did make a mistake with the coolant, used the pure antifreeze hoping it will leave enough room for me to add water but it didn't and i didn't bother changing it but I am going to correct this mistake the first thing tomorrow morning).

 

New distributor for this motor is 138.99 + shipping on ebay. Changing it is super simple, can be done in less than 15 minutes, properly.

 

you cant adjust the ignition timing on OBDII engines with OBDII ecu's. With OBDII ecu's, the ignition is controlled solely by that.

 

i had the exact same issue , when the car was cold i would drive and it would drive good, the car would get to normal running temp then i would get a CEL out of no where and car would misfire and drive like ***, replaced the distibutor and it pulls harder then ever

 

Nope. Replacing distributor did not resolve the problem. Drove it around and code 9 came right back. Check Engine light came on as soon as it missed. So here's some usefull info for D16A1 with code 9:

The Cylinder position sensor/camshaft position sensor is located at the end of exhaust camshaft, next to the distributor. Code 9 on these motors reffers to this and not the distributor. So before you replace the distributor check this sensor. All electrical connections to it, normally its the connection and not the sensor itself. In my case the connector had some fluid in it and was shorting out. While the car was idling, I was checking the CYL sensor connector (green) to make sure it was plugged in all the way. I twisted the connector, engine missed, check engine light came on. So turned the car off, cleaned the wires and the connector, took the negative off the battery to reset the ECU, started the car, no code 9. Drove the car for about 65 miles, no code 9, new distributor does make it run very smooth though.

I'm sure other people got rid of this by replacing the distributor but after much research and troubleshooting, for me it ended up being the cyl sensor, in my case located not in the distributor but at the end of exhaust camshaft next to distributor.

D16A1 Code 9:
1. Check Ignition Timing
2. Check CYL/Camshaft position sensor and related wires/connectors- located at the end of exhaust cam, next to distributor

Thanks to my new best friend 'LUCKY' at Honda delaership, he got me this info.
I'll drive it around more for a few days and post a confirmation.


Modified by AK77 at 3:55 AM 10/28/2007

 

Firstly, there is no CYL sensor.

There is a CYP, CKP, and TDC. All 3 are in the distributor on obd1, the latter two are down at the oil pump on obd2

 

Oh yeah. Are you sure because HONDA calls it the cylinder position sensor, located on the end of the exhaust camshaft, next to distributor. So you know, my post applies to D16A1, not sure about other setups.

 

Applies to D16A1/ZC, and motors that have the cylinder/camshaft position sensor hooked up to the end of the exhaust camshaft, next to the distributor, instead of this sensor built into the dist:


The cylinder/camshaft position sensor was indeed defective. Used a multimeter to test it. Was supposed to have 700-1000ohms between two terminals of the sensor connector but it showed 0 ohms. Opened the housing, replaced the actual sensor ($43 - rockauto.com, got schucks to price match it). New sensor showed 876 ohms. Drove it for over 200 miles, no more code 9. Hope this helps someone someday.

 

i have this problem with a B-series motor, does the methods apply? .... how would i fix a CEL #9 on a b-series considerint there is no sensor on the exhaust cam.

 

I also have a B18a1 motor in my project 91 Integra. This sensor is located in the distributor housing on those cars. I compared the two distributors and the b-series has 2 extra wires on the distributor which are connected to this sensor in it.
Check your ignition timing, if you didn't play with this then probably not it.
In a dark place, open the hood and start the car and check for any spark leaks on the wires. If there is a leak you'll see blue spark around the wire(s), replace em.
Check spark plugs.
If all this if ok then replace the distributor. One way to check the sensor if its good or bad is to use a multimeter and check resistance between the two terminals/wires hooked up to the sensor in the housing. It should be between 700-1000 ohms. But in your case without knowing the exact motor it will be hard to find out what wires are the connected to this sensor. If you have the money just replace the distributor if wires and plugs check out fine.
Hope this helps!