Im ussually not a big fan or participant in street racing, but since he claims he has the fastest car around town (my town lol not trying to call anyone out) i had to show him what was up

I'm still on the same set up with 10psi on the pt61

2000 z28-"Built bottom end" Diamond pistons, Manley rods, Hooker Headers, LS6 Intake, Borla Exhaust, Thunder Racing 224 114 cam, and some other stuff i dont remember...

In the first race we were racing on a differnt highway than the last two, which hooked up way better for some reason. i let off around 110 cuz he wasnt gunna catch up

In the last two races i dont know if you guys can tell but i was spinning/hopping all the way through 3/4 and still gave him a run for his $... even though i was spinning/hopping he claim's he won, regardless of traction... man domestics can be ricers sometimes

To top off the night, i got a CEL on the way home its cel #8 top dead center sensor... analyzing problem as we speak

<FONT COLOR="teal"> john_d VS z28</FONT>


Friggn' bald *** kuhmo's

IM AT MY GF'S HOUSE RIGHT NOW, SO NO TOOLS HERE OR ANYTHING, NO HELMS MANUAL, AND IM ON 56K WHICH KEEPS CUTTING OFF CUZ PPL ARE CALLING. CAN SOMEONE TELL ME WHERE THE TDC SENSOR IS???

 

i, myself, am not completely sure where the sensor is, but from what i've picked up from a quick search is that it is inside the distributor.

 

I have the strangest feeling that I just saw another thread like this...

Oh yeah: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1152052
Title: TDC Code 8

Search is there for a reason.

 

nice vid keep them coming i love the ludez smokin American power lol

 

You should of posted this in Kills, but in a longer more detailed version. I want to see what the domestic guy's response is.

Nice Kills.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xthephilx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have the strangest feeling that I just saw another thread like this...

Oh yeah: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1152052
Title: TDC Code 8

Search is there for a reason.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There was no useful info in that thread by the way... John D, did you convert your car to obd1?

 

The TDC sensor is located by the crankshaft gear pulley. Its shared with the CKP sensor. You have to take off the crankshaft pulley and lower timming cover.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam1am26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

John D, did you convert your car to obd1? </TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah my car is converted obd1


Modified by john d at 2:27 PM 2/17/2005

 

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Revi-Ra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> </TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks man, but i cant imagine that coming loose?? does that happen alot or is it ussually the dizzy?

 

so if the sensor is plugged in and its the dizzy thats bad, what do you have to replace just the cap or the actual whole dizzy?

 

If you just want to check to connection, you should be able to see it on the side of the timming cover. To replace it you would have to take off the timming crap. You never know man, stranger **** has happened. I would check to connection to make sure nothing popped it loose or cut it.

 

This whole "dizzy" thing is confusing me... I assume you mean distributor?

There are three sensors involved in telling the ECU where things stand from a timing perspective with the 5G and OBD-II:

- CKP - Crank Position Sensor (located with the TDC sensor next to the crank)
- CYP - Cam Position Sensor (located in the distributor)
- TDC - Top Dead Sensor (located at the crank - behind the balancer pulley)

Two complete check this or repalce this, you'll need:

- Crank Pulley Holding tool
- 19mm socket
- Breaker bar
- lot of muscle(!)
- 10mm socket
- 17mm socket (or are the engine mount bolts on that side 14mm?)

You need to drop the engine on that side slightly so that you can get the holding tool on there. Remove the crank pulley. Remove the timing belt lower cover. Check the connectors and following the procedure located on Page 11-88 of the service manual.

IF you have access to an OBD-II code scanner, you would normally be able to determine the status of the problem:

Code P1361 means there is an intermittant TDC signal... which might mean a loose wire, or open in the circuit. (So if you did any soldering, etc for the OBD-I conversion, it could be there...)

Code P1362 mean no signal from the TDC... which might mean a bad sensor.

Since you are running OBD-I... all bets are off with the typical manner of troubleshooting the unit via scanner.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gerhard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">This whole "dizzy" thing is confusing me... I assume you mean distributor?

There are three sensors involved in telling the ECU where things stand from a timing perspective with the 5G and OBD-II:

- CKP - Crank Position Sensor (located with the TDC sensor next to the crank)
- CYP - Cam Position Sensor (located in the distributor)
- TDC - Top Dead Sensor (located at the crank - behind the balancer pulley)

Two complete check this or repalce this, you'll need:

- Crank Pulley Holding tool
- 19mm socket
- Breaker bar
- lot of muscle(!)
- 10mm socket
- 17mm socket (or are the engine mount bolts on that side 14mm?)

You need to drop the engine on that side slightly so that you can get the holding tool on there. Remove the crank pulley. Remove the timing belt lower cover. Check the connectors and following the procedure located on Page 11-88 of the service manual.

IF you have access to an OBD-II code scanner, you would normally be able to determine the status of the problem:

Code P1361 means there is an intermittant TDC signal... which might mean a loose wire, or open in the circuit. (So if you did any soldering, etc for the OBD-I conversion, it could be there...)

Code P1362 mean no signal from the TDC... which might mean a bad sensor.

Since you are running OBD-I... all bets are off with the typical manner of troubleshooting the unit via scanner.</TD></TR></TABLE>

yeah thats what i mean by dizzy lol. but is it typical this sensor would somehow fall off or come loose!? i mean im almost sure its not the wiring when i did the conversion. but i guess thats the only thing it can be (the sensor is loose or off)

 

He shouldn't be using a CKP sensor anymore if he converted to obd1...

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Sam1am26 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">He shouldn't be using a CKP sensor anymore if he converted to obd1...</TD></TR></TABLE>

wouldnt all those sensors down there be functionless now since he has obd1 or no?

 

ahhh this is gay

 

Is there an option for the TDC in the Hondata? I dont see how the computer is throwing a cell for it if he is OBDI. The computer has to recognize it in order to give a cel for it.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Revi-Ra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is there an option for the TDC in the Hondata? I dont see how the computer is throwing a cell for it if he is OBDI. The computer has to recognize it in order to give a cel for it.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i dunno if there is cuz your right, how would it throw a cel if all of those sensors down there are obsolete?

 

Dude... we need to know the exact setup you have...

Are you running a P13 ECU... are you running a P5M ECU with Hondata or the AEM EMS?

etc....etc...etc...

Edit: I just read your most recent post... that probably means that the CYP (distributor) is having issues... do you have the OBD-I distributor? ...or are using the TD-77U that came with your 5th gen.


Modified by gerhard at 4:28 PM 2/17/2005

 

ahh i figured most ppl knew my set up, my bad

p72 (obd1) with hondata

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by gerhard &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dude... we need to know the exact setup you have...

Are you running a P13 ECU... are you running a P5M ECU with Hondata or the AEM EMS?

etc....etc...etc...

Edit: I just read your most recent post... that probably means that the CYP (distributor) is having issues... do you have the OBD-I distributor? ...or are using the TD-77U that came with your 5th gen.</TD></TR></TABLE>

im running the obd2 dizzy that came with my 5th gen

 

Maybe the CYP in the dizzy is shot... or the ICM... that's not really uncommon.

(I've had two ignitors blow up on my OEM TD-77U.)

Do you know anyone with a 5th Gen that you can swap distributors with and see if that's the problem?

The CYP in the TD-77U you have can go... but doesn't always.

I was racing some *** on the highway (saw him weaving in and out of traffic and comming up on me at 100+ MPH...) and down shifted into high RPMs. (6800) I then wound that gear out to 7400RPMs and shifting into VTEC in the next gear...

That actually killed the ICM (ignition control module) in the distributor... but it didn't completely die... it just started giving me odd RPM reports at the tachometer.

The CYP in the distributor is what tells the ECU how many RPM's the engine is turn at, and reports that number on the tachometer.

If the ICM fails... it affects the CYP (for some reason I have yet to determine)...

Swap the "dizzy" and seen what happens. (if you can)

Then, swap the ICM from the test distributor into your distributor... and see if that solves you problem. If so, you need a new ICM... if not... your CYP is shot and you need a new distributor.

(See this article I wrote after may annoying experiences...

http://elabfcsvrt.fdu.edu/PETD77U/TD77U/index.htm )

Along with this... it is VERY important that you use an ohm meter and check out your ignition coil. That can also cause the ICM to fail... so you don't want to put in a new ICM only to have a bad coil screw it up again...

 

on the crank pully bolt , use a damn impact socket or some crazy heavy duty snap on socket. i busted my craftsmen on that thing. Soon as i jumped my 190 lbs on the breaker bar first thing to give was the socket.


Check the wiring and check to make sure nothing cam loose and snagged on the timing belt or something weird like that. ive seen CFK sensors come loose and be ripped to shreds on alternator belts and all sorts of crazy ****.

 

At this point, it appears that he's only using the CYP in the distributor with his P72 ECU...

So that code is not coming from the crank sensors... but the cam sensor attached to that distributor.

I've noticed that the crank bolt on the H22A4 is MASSIVE compared to the H22A crank bolt... which is much smaller in length and side of the threads.

I'm transfering things over to the H22A from the H22A4 and scratching my head "Why isn't the crank bolt going on there?" Duh....