Car Starting Problems
Hey All, Yes I'm sure your tired of these. However so am I.
1990 Prelude with H22A stuffed in.
Car was running fine, no issues what so ever. Parked car one day, couple days later go back out and cranks but doesnt start.
Fuel Primes (has 3/4 of a tank)
Checked Main Relay again to make sure
Replaced Cap/Rotor/Plugs (noticed cap/rotor had some serious wear)
Checked for spark on #4, had spark
Cracked open gas vent valve before fuel rail, had gas(didnt check pressure though)
Checked oil, its fine
Opened gas fill cap, no change
Battery is good, even trickle charged to make sure
Am I missing something?
Thanks
-MiKE
1990 Prelude with H22A stuffed in.
Car was running fine, no issues what so ever. Parked car one day, couple days later go back out and cranks but doesnt start.
Fuel Primes (has 3/4 of a tank)
Checked Main Relay again to make sure
Replaced Cap/Rotor/Plugs (noticed cap/rotor had some serious wear)
Checked for spark on #4, had spark
Cracked open gas vent valve before fuel rail, had gas(didnt check pressure though)
Checked oil, its fine
Opened gas fill cap, no change
Battery is good, even trickle charged to make sure
Am I missing something?
Thanks
-MiKE
thank god you tested all that stuff lol. youd of gotten like 1999 posts telling you to do that stuff.. but since you already did the hardwork, maybe check your relay to your injectors to make sure they are getting juice. ive heard alot of stories about that relay shitting out
good advice for sure. you are down to fuel filter ie check pressure or injectors are possibly not firing. your car would sputter even with somewhat low pressure, sounds like injectors aren't firing. check with noid lights, or pigtail with 194 bulb or voltage or test light. if that's allgood, timing issues. do you hear inj ticking? check with stethoscope and listen.
I'll have to find out where the injector relay is, but I suppose an easier test would be is to listen for 'em. Would need a buddy though, will have to wait till tonight. Course my mechanic friend across the street is on vacation, lol. I suppose its also possible my belt slipped, but it hasnt been even 50k miles. I know the engine is throwing a code 22 and 20, but it would still start. 20 has always been there, 22 is something new, but only for vtec. (unless I'm mistaken)
20 - Electrical Load Detector
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
22 - VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
defective circuit or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch
20 - Electrical Load Detector
defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
22 - VTEC Oil Pressure Switch
defective circuit or unplugged / defective oil pressure switch
Update:
Checked timing and its fine.
Checked valve lash its good.
Checked resistor pack and its fine 6.2ohms per channel
What voltage should the injectors see?
Haven't checked for clicking injectors yet, got sick...
-MiKE
Checked timing and its fine.
Checked valve lash its good.
Checked resistor pack and its fine 6.2ohms per channel
What voltage should the injectors see?
Haven't checked for clicking injectors yet, got sick...

-MiKE
Injectors are clicking..
Gotta test my fuel pressure now. Seems like the only thing thats amiss.
Anyone got any crazy idea's for me to check?
thanks
-MiKE
Gotta test my fuel pressure now. Seems like the only thing thats amiss.
Anyone got any crazy idea's for me to check?
thanks
-MiKE
Trending Topics
Anyone got any crazy idea's for me to check?
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Have you check continuity on your spark sensors...ie: TDC, Crank Angle, and Cylinder sensor....you should get around 3.5 ohms on all of them.
My thinking is maybe you have a bad sensor and its telling it to fire at the wrong time...?
Good luck man.
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Have you check continuity on your spark sensors...ie: TDC, Crank Angle, and Cylinder sensor....you should get around 3.5 ohms on all of them.
My thinking is maybe you have a bad sensor and its telling it to fire at the wrong time...?
Good luck man.
Well I went to 11-70 in the manual for TDC/CKP/CYP sensor checks and it says it should be between 350-700 ohms.
CKP 371.6
TDC 373.8
CYP 375.1
With that I can assume they are ok.
I hate fuel pressure tests, can never find the right size.
I did however clean out my fuel filter and the pump sounds a lot better. It was pretty nasty in there. (i have a billet aluminum one from K&N)
CKP 371.6
TDC 373.8
CYP 375.1
With that I can assume they are ok.
I hate fuel pressure tests, can never find the right size.
I did however clean out my fuel filter and the pump sounds a lot better. It was pretty nasty in there. (i have a billet aluminum one from K&N)
This is nuts. I started retracing my steps.
Checked fuel pressure 35+ no problems there.
Checked each plug for spark, no issues there.
wtf died? Grrr..
Is it possible that the internal workings of the distributor got messed up or one of the cam shafts broke loose? I'd assume i'd hear some weird noises though.
Could there be something going on with the air intake system?
Checked fuel pressure 35+ no problems there.
Checked each plug for spark, no issues there.
wtf died? Grrr..
Is it possible that the internal workings of the distributor got messed up or one of the cam shafts broke loose? I'd assume i'd hear some weird noises though.
Could there be something going on with the air intake system?
if you have fuel and spark, you have timing problems. either you snapped a belt or dropped the auto tensioner. check your compression,that will tell you. when you checked your valve lash, how did the t belt look?
The timing belt looked great, no wear or anything and tight.
Only thing I didnt check was TDC for #1 and match that up with the cap/rotor, which I was going to do that yesterday but the wife had a breakdown ;(
Would I see anything from spraying starter fluid into the TB? if it doesnt start then what?
thanks
Only thing I didnt check was TDC for #1 and match that up with the cap/rotor, which I was going to do that yesterday but the wife had a breakdown ;(
Would I see anything from spraying starter fluid into the TB? if it doesnt start then what?
thanks
Take the distributor cap off and see if the ignitor or coil (if it's internal) is wet
with oil. I was working on an accord that had spark (although is was weak it was
still sparking) that wouldn't start beacuse of this. If it's a fuel issue it should turn over if you spray starter fluid in the throttle body.
with oil. I was working on an accord that had spark (although is was weak it was
still sparking) that wouldn't start beacuse of this. If it's a fuel issue it should turn over if you spray starter fluid in the throttle body.
Checked TDC for #1 and it was at the correct position for rotor/cap, also checked #3 while I was at it.
Pulled ignition coil out and everything is completly dry. The coil doesnt have any burn marks or cracks either.
Gonna try and put my old plugs back in and see if that makes a difference. I know they burn a litle hotter.
Pulled ignition coil out and everything is completly dry. The coil doesnt have any burn marks or cracks either.
Gonna try and put my old plugs back in and see if that makes a difference. I know they burn a litle hotter.
Saw this on another page, how accurate is this?
For me, A-B is .9 ohms and A-Secondary is 16.08k
Here is how to diagnose problems with the Ignition Coil:
There is a BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires connected to the coil. Call the terminal to which the BLK/YEL is connected terminal A and the other one terminal B. The circular thing on the side of a coil is a secondary winding terminal. Switch ignition to OFF. Remove the screws and disconnect the wires from terminals A and B. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between the terminals. Replace the coil if the resistance is not within these specifications: between the A and B terminals - 0.63-0.77 ohms, and between terminal A and secondary winding terminal - 9,760-14,640 ohms.
For me, A-B is .9 ohms and A-Secondary is 16.08k
Here is how to diagnose problems with the Ignition Coil:
There is a BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires connected to the coil. Call the terminal to which the BLK/YEL is connected terminal A and the other one terminal B. The circular thing on the side of a coil is a secondary winding terminal. Switch ignition to OFF. Remove the screws and disconnect the wires from terminals A and B. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between the terminals. Replace the coil if the resistance is not within these specifications: between the A and B terminals - 0.63-0.77 ohms, and between terminal A and secondary winding terminal - 9,760-14,640 ohms.
I'm starting to think that this is a spark issue.
After cranking the car a little to see if I changed anything, I pulled the plugs and I did smell fuel on all of them.
If I have a weak spark what should I test and go after?
thx
After cranking the car a little to see if I changed anything, I pulled the plugs and I did smell fuel on all of them.
If I have a weak spark what should I test and go after?
thx
Final update and hopefully the last... for now 
Fix = Replaced ignition coil
The A-B terminal Resistance didnt change much with the new coil, still 0.8-0.9.
The A-Spring Resistance changed from 16.3k to 15.8k.
Fired up first shot. Hope it stays fixed, but will report out if something goes wrong again.
Thanks to all those who gave me hints and tips. Hope to one day return the favor to another member.
-MiKE

Fix = Replaced ignition coil
The A-B terminal Resistance didnt change much with the new coil, still 0.8-0.9.
The A-Spring Resistance changed from 16.3k to 15.8k.
Fired up first shot. Hope it stays fixed, but will report out if something goes wrong again.
Thanks to all those who gave me hints and tips. Hope to one day return the favor to another member.
-MiKE
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