break pads
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From: Somewhere TX
Re: break pads (Lude454)
you mean "brake" pads???? The EBC green stuff brake pads are cerm. pads, they cause less brake dust and they perform better but also at the same time they will eat up your rotors. If u use the vehicle for daily driving, I rec. OEM brake pads 
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Personally, I use the Performance Friction carbon-metallic pads. Be sure that you get a brake pad that is made for a daily driver's normal operating temperature range. Racing brake pads are made to perform at a higher temperature than the brake systems of most street cars ever reach.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
EBC's are utter ****.
Go OEM for daily driving, Axxis Metalmasters, Cobalt Friction GT Sports, or Carbotech bobcats if you want better bite in performance driving applications.
Go OEM for daily driving, Axxis Metalmasters, Cobalt Friction GT Sports, or Carbotech bobcats if you want better bite in performance driving applications.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: (Lude454)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Lude454 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i for got to metion that i have new rotors slotted and drilled so oem will just get eaten up </TD></TR></TABLE>
doesn't matter if it's OEM or aftermarket, but those rotors will eat up any sort of brake pad. I'd bet that OEM pads would last longer than a set of EBC's with your rotor setup anyway.
if you're concerned about longevity, get rid of the circus rotors and put a real set of rotors on. if you like them too much to take em off, be prepared to spend extra money on brake pads. that's just the way it is...
doesn't matter if it's OEM or aftermarket, but those rotors will eat up any sort of brake pad. I'd bet that OEM pads would last longer than a set of EBC's with your rotor setup anyway.
if you're concerned about longevity, get rid of the circus rotors and put a real set of rotors on. if you like them too much to take em off, be prepared to spend extra money on brake pads. that's just the way it is...
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From: Rochster, NY, Grubby Nettles
Re: break pads (xbn83)
Is he gonna be racing it at all? Ultimates seem a little too aggressive for the street. And when i say aggressive, i'm speaking on their operating temperature range. Or am I mistaken.
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Re: break pads (optikal_blitz)
I'm running porterfield R4-S pads with brembo rotors now. Not a single problem with braking.
Don't worry about eating up your rotors, autozone rotors are cheap as hell. I plan on getting those when these **** on me.
Don't worry about eating up your rotors, autozone rotors are cheap as hell. I plan on getting those when these **** on me.
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From: Peach, usa
Re: break pads (optikal_blitz)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by optikal_blitz »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Is he gonna be racing it at all? Ultimates seem a little too aggressive for the street. And when i say aggressive, i'm speaking on their operating temperature range. Or am I mistaken.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Ultimate is fine with me. I used it for more than a year now, brake pretty good, but a lot of dust. If you have rims and lazy to clean it, dont get Ultimate, get AEM, almost no dust at all and works pretty good.
Ultimate is fine with me. I used it for more than a year now, brake pretty good, but a lot of dust. If you have rims and lazy to clean it, dont get Ultimate, get AEM, almost no dust at all and works pretty good.
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: North California, CA, usa
Re: break pads (Lude454)
i recommend AEM brake pads. they are actually made by Nissin, the manufacturer of the HONDA OEM pads. they have a little more bite and less fade, but might squeak a bit. only one of four corners squeaks at all for me though.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: break pads (typeS)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by typeS »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i recommend AEM brake pads. they are actually made by Nissin, the manufacturer of the HONDA OEM pads. they have a little more bite and less fade, but might squeak a bit. only one of four corners squeaks at all for me though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
meh, AEM pads are ok, but not worth the extra money over AEM.
all this talk about "fade"--i wonder if any of us have really driven hard enough on the street to experience pad fade...even in the curviest of canyons or steepest of hills i don't think i've ever come close.
in which case, i think unless you're on a race track (not even an A/X) or live on top of mt. whitney, pad fade is irrelevant to most people's brake pad choices.
meh, AEM pads are ok, but not worth the extra money over AEM.
all this talk about "fade"--i wonder if any of us have really driven hard enough on the street to experience pad fade...even in the curviest of canyons or steepest of hills i don't think i've ever come close.
in which case, i think unless you're on a race track (not even an A/X) or live on top of mt. whitney, pad fade is irrelevant to most people's brake pad choices.
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From: so cal, USA
Re: (bad-monkey)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by bad-monkey »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">doesn't matter if it's OEM or aftermarket, but those rotors will eat up any sort of brake pad. I'd bet that OEM pads would last longer than a set of EBC's with your rotor setup anyway.
if you're concerned about longevity, get rid of the circus rotors and put a real set of rotors on. if you like them too much to take em off, be prepared to spend extra money on brake pads. that's just the way it is...</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL circus rotors
only time i would think about using crossdrilled rotors is when i am roadracing and i am going fast enough to where i would need full potential of my pads.
if you're concerned about longevity, get rid of the circus rotors and put a real set of rotors on. if you like them too much to take em off, be prepared to spend extra money on brake pads. that's just the way it is...</TD></TR></TABLE>
LOL circus rotors
only time i would think about using crossdrilled rotors is when i am roadracing and i am going fast enough to where i would need full potential of my pads.
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From: Off THE 60, Between THE 605 and THE 57
Re: (eMpAtHy)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by eMpAtHy »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">LOL circus rotors
only time i would think about using crossdrilled rotors is when i am roadracing and i am going fast enough to where i would need full potential of my pads.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x-drilled rotors are no good for race tracks
slots might be, but even that is debateable. esp on a cost-benefit level.
slots are better than x-drills because they give you scrubbing the scrubbing action but are stronger and withstand total failure better. however, the scrubbing benefit vs. the increased structural vulnerability of slots when comparing to blank rotors, and most of all, the price difference is why i'd never suggest that anyone run slotted rotors.
only time i would think about using crossdrilled rotors is when i am roadracing and i am going fast enough to where i would need full potential of my pads.</TD></TR></TABLE>
x-drilled rotors are no good for race tracks
slots might be, but even that is debateable. esp on a cost-benefit level.
slots are better than x-drills because they give you scrubbing the scrubbing action but are stronger and withstand total failure better. however, the scrubbing benefit vs. the increased structural vulnerability of slots when comparing to blank rotors, and most of all, the price difference is why i'd never suggest that anyone run slotted rotors.
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Joined: Nov 2000
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From: Bay Area, CA, USA
Re: (bad-monkey)
You gotta worry about the bling-bling yO! Seriously, almost no one here can benifit from cross drilled rotors or slotted. We don't off road where debris can get between the pad/rotor and most of us don't have the brakes at such high temps that we vaporize brake pads upon first pressure. Maybe 10 years ago when brake pad technology wasn't to the point where it is now, but for now? No, leave that to the Ferrari, Porsche and the like. Not that they really even need it either, but factory rotors costing $150 a pop goes with the territory. Some of us are HAPPY that OEM replacements are only $30!
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From: Oklahoma City, OK, USA
Re: break pads (Matt5745767)
raybestos STS ceramics = good stuff....
who cares if they might cost a little more than OEM, because they stop better and are cleaner....not to mention we're discussing a part that you might replace every few YEARS....
and why do you say slotted rotors are more expensive? i picked up all 4 rotors (slotted in front, blank in back) and all pads for $90
who cares if they might cost a little more than OEM, because they stop better and are cleaner....not to mention we're discussing a part that you might replace every few YEARS....
and why do you say slotted rotors are more expensive? i picked up all 4 rotors (slotted in front, blank in back) and all pads for $90
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