So after switching from the stock ecu from my 96 Vtec to a p28, I got 3 codes.
20, 36, 41
Electrical load detector, traction control and primary o2 sensor heater.
Is it a bad ECU? P28 is tuned with crome.
I put the stock obd2 ecu back in and still get 41.
Just bad timing or could the new ecu have damaged something?
Could the o2 sensor heater be causing the other 2 lights?
I don't get why the 36 code would be showing though since the car doesn't even have traction control.

 

You didn't state if you were using a conversion harness, I guess thats probably a given. Maybe have some wires crossed in the harness itself, also the crome tune needs to have ELD disabled because p28 doesn't have the hardware to monitor ELD. Who tuned it? Maybe ask them if the ELD was disabled in the tune, cause p72 base code I believe has it enabled normally. Also are you running the stock O2 or a wideband setup? If wideband, you need to also disable O2 heater because that is handled in the WB controller. GL
Mike

 

Thanks for the reply.
Yes I used a conversion harness. Happened pretty much right when I plugged it in so my tuner thought it was the harness. I bought a brand new harness and same thing.
Crescent from c-speed tuned it.
Im also using the stock o2. I still have the secondary o2 in there but I don't think that would affect anything would it? Is it just there to plug the hole now that it's obd1?

 

From a quick search code 36 is only valid in JDM ecus is the p28 a JDM model? Is tuner using JDM basecode? Also, upstream O2 sensor is same as OBD1 so no problems there. If I were you, I'd get a cheap P06 ecu, add VTEC and chip and hand that to the tuner. It could be some strange combo of hardware/software basecode that is causing the code 36. I know when I tuned my car I was trying to use the B6 input to read the WBO2 voltage and the ecu would go in and out of limp mode every few seconds till I switched it to another input. Just saying that some combos don't like to work together and also this hardware is pushing 20yrs old, could just be bad.
GL
Mike

 

It is actually a p06 ecu converted to a p28.
I have no idea if its a JDM ecu or not.
Should I find another chipped ecu and just swap the chip over to keep the tune?
Or should I try replacing that o2 sensor?
The code 46 is the hard CEL and turns on 5 seconds after the car starts up.
The other codes are stored and don't show up unless I jump the connector.
Vtec still works and the motor is not in limp mode with the CEL on.

 

I would go with another ecu, its probably cheaper than the O2 sensor, lol! Running E85 I'd eat an O2 sensor about every 6 months (my guess is when they changed from summer to winter blend, etc) and they were right about 100 bux, but my WBO2 sensor is only like 50 and haven't had any trouble with it yet.

 

I can pick up a new bosch sensor for $60.
An ecu I believe is gonna will run me about 160 chipped or so.

 

You can try the O2 if you want, I still have doubts about the basecode the tuner used, esp. if its throwing the code for traction control. I would have the tuner or someone else at least get you a base tune just to check to make sure the ecu is good. USDM p72 base code is probably the best to start with, cause it lets you control the IAB's if you still have them. Then tweak the injector battery offsets to get the thing to run ok.
GL
Mike

 

If i get new base tune, will I lose the tuning thats already been done? Or that should still be in the chip? Would it change anything in terms of the tune?

 

I would change out the chip for the one with the base tune. Keep it around in case it is the ecu, then if you had to replace the ecu you could just plug the tuned chip in and drive. This is just for testing purposes, to make sure the ecu hardware is working right.
GL
Mike

 

Did you try clearing out those codes?

If you did and still showing up, substitute for a good known ecu with your chip.
I had the same problem because my p72 will randomly throw codes, but the car would run fine. After my p28, it's perfect.

 

Well the code 41 for o2 heater is fixed now because I guess the person that took my sensor out and plugged in the wideband broke the ceramic part of it in half.
Replaced the sensor and the solid code is gone.

I still get code 20 and 36 if I jump the plug but the CEL is never on for these 2.