Neat-o. Looks heavy. About how much HP can that handle before it gives out?

 

I just read this post all the way through and the one thing that gave me a chubby was the idea of increasing power output capability... the clutches used in the ATTS look identical to the ones you would find in most ATV's. I recently did two clutch replacements on two of my brother's 4-wheelers: an old '95 Blaster and an '05 400R. I dunno if he still has the old clutches and friction plates laying around but I would certainly have no problem sending them to you to see how they fit. It would possibly open some avenues to venture with this thing. Another thought was increasing the spring pressure could be done by shimming the spring which might allow you to compensate for the overbore to increase oil pressure in the system; perhaps allowing you less of requirement for bore...? I dunno. Thoughts popping in my head and I'm really wishing I could be getting greasy and play around with some ideas. I was drooling over the ATTS back in '03 when I first did my H22 swap. I remember flipping through the Helms trying to learn eveything I could even if I didn't have it...

 

I have a 2000 sh, and my atts light is on. and intermittently the abs light comes on. I ran the code and it came back the left rear abs sensor. I swapped that out, reset the computer and still the light. I ran the code again and same thing 17. The dealership said the wiring harness had been spliced and re-routed and that might be the problem but they couldn't be certain unless they dropped the tranny to get a look. which is too expensive for me. The dealership thought it could also be the ABS control unit. Which I replaced today and still the light comes on. Frustrating. The car is great but I hate having the light on the dash and ATTS not working. THe ABS works but every now and then the ABS light comes on, say every 5th time i drive, then it will go out.


My question is what codes were you getting before you replaced your entire ATTS unit? I bought this car used about a month ago and the ATTS has never worked. the previous owner replaced the clutch recently and the paperwork says "Clutch w/o ATTS", could they have installed a non-sh clutch and somehow rigged the wires to make the thing work. The only thing I can do is wait till I need a new clutch and then check out the wiring harness, as I can't justify the cost of dropping the tranny just to get to the wiring harness, which might not even be the problem. Any help is appreciated. thanks

 

There is no such thing as an "SH Clutch". A SH clutch would be the same as a Base clutch or any H22 clutch for that matter. The ATTS has nothing to do with the clutch replacement other than removing it and disconecting the ATTS wire harness (which you can get to and see from underneath the car) to be able to remove the transmission. Its been a long time since i had my bad ATTS unit in there so i dont remember which code it was throwing. I would check the ATTS ECU wire connections and get underneath and check the ATTS.

 

Thanks for the response. thats the problem, whoever worked on it re-routed the wires on top of the ATTS so I can't see or access it without removing the atts or transmission according to the honda service advisor. This is frustrating.

Where are the ATTS ecu wire connections? When you say check the ATTS what should I be looking for? I replaced the fluid in there and honda looked at that too. but They want me to spend $400 just for them to look at the wiring harness. Thanks.

 

You see the gray plug in the upper right corner of this pic? That is the only connection to the ATTS unit, you can see it from under neath the car. You dont need to remover the ATTS or the Trasmission to see it. I dont see why anyone would or could "re-route" any of the ATTS wires. I dont see a benefit to doing that and really sounds BS. The ATTS computer is located in the same spot where the main ECU is, right next to it. Checking the wires/connections is no big job.

 

If you're getting an ABS code, it should have nothing to do with the ATTS unit or the wiring to the ATTS unit. I would be more concerned with the ATTS Control unit, ABS Control unit, Engine ECU and related wiring.

The helms says that you should always trouble shoot the ABS system, if you get an ABS code from the ATTS control unit. My bet is something wrong with the ABS system. Stop going after ATTS, I doubt there's anything wrong there.

 

^ This is true, if the ATTS light and ABS light come on at the same time you troubleshoot the ABS first.

 

i replaced the ABS control unit last night, and the lights went out. After driving for one minute the abs light came on and started making this surging feeling. Not the brakes, so it must have been the ATTS unit, trying to work. I put the clutch in and thats when the ATTS light came on. If I'm rolling and turn the car off then turn it on, the ABS light will go out, and the abs works, when the light is not on because I've tried to lock the brakes and the ABS takes over. I am accumulating quite a bit of extra parts trying to fix this problem, including both rear speed sensors, and an ABS control unit. I hate to buy the ATTS unit and have the same crap.
I see a ATTS control unit on ebay, but from what I understand it is most likely an ABS issue. there was some oil or something on the ABS wiring harness, maybe get some contact cleaner and try again. Any other suggestions. I really appreciate the help, you guys are my lifeline.

 

The surging is not your ATTS, it's the ABS pump. I'm sure you need to troubleshoot the ABS. If you would still like to try another ATTS control unit, I've got two laying that work fine. Let me know, I'm not looking to get a lot for them.

 

well. i got some contact cleaner and hopefully it is the contact to the ABS computer. Should know in 30 minutes. If I need the ATTS i'll let you know. The one on ebay was $100. thanks.

 

you guys are right about it being the ABS. I disconnected the battery removed the 7.5 amp fuse for the clock, removed the ABS control module cleaned the contacts, inspected all the pins, then did the same to all the plugs on the ABS distributor, (with the lines going to each wheel), reinstalled everything, and put the key in and the ATTS light went out, but the ABS light stayed on. I started the car and the same thing happened ATTS out, ABS on. It's only when I drive and the ABS pump surges does the ATTS light come on. The weird thing is the ABS light will go off and does work. Any ideas? Where do I go from here?

I am starting to think I should have kept my 96 Integra.

 

This might sound like a dumb question but have you checked your brake fluid?

 

I bled and replaced all the brake fluid, as I do on any used car I get. I change all the fluids. Is there a separate resevoir for the ABS system? I'm no mechanic but I am practical and logical enough to figure things out. I read service manuals and do research. I enjoy learning as I go. No question is a dumb question. It's boggles my mind though. I was thinking the dealer was BS too. I will get under the car and take some pictures, how do I upload them on here?

 

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lol good pics, interesting look into the atts unit,

p.s look on page 2 haha,

still love this thread BTW

 

^LMFAO! Looks like some of my camera test shots got mixed up in Photobucket, ima have to fix that. LOL.

 

I am in need of one of the oil pressure switches. Either one will work, I need it soon. If anyone has a whole unit working or not working I will buy that also. Email me at moronic.s@gmail.com

 

FAQ?

 

So has anyone found out about getting custom clutches made for the ATTS unit?

FAQ?

 

Actually send me an IM on here. I need a right or left oil pressure switch. All of my email accounts have been locked for some reason. Willing to pay at least half of what honda charges for the switches which means I will give $100 no problem. You can also try to IM me on yahoo messenger: Thepsychoticsanta

 

Solid thread just posting to save the thread through my post lol I need to fix my atts light ahs been on forever. great thread thx

 

I know this is an old thread, but I don't care. Revi, did you reset the steering wheel neutral position with the new engine's ATTS unit? I'm willing to bet, Revi, that is why the ATTS unit did not work correctly.

 

fixed it for you.

 

Do you think Synchrotech can fabricate custom clutches like these? what company could custom fab clutch parts for atts so they can withstand FI?

 

Have y'all ever consider trying to weld the inside of the atts and install an LSD into the trans? SH preludes.... I'm trying to find a work around because I sleeved an SH block....
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