About h22 headers
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: JVille, arkansas, united states of america
Im going to get some headers here soon, for my h22a4 now will all the h22 headers work on mine? Or do i have to get them for a 97-02 lude? i know the sh wont, give me some good headers to get, i was thinking greddy or dc sport. thanks guys
Modified by 96Accordh22 at 1:54 AM 11/22/2006
Modified by 96Accordh22 at 1:54 AM 11/22/2006
I would def try to save the money and buy a custom header (SMSP, RMF, Hytech). But if money is short you could go with a Megan header. Ive put down good numbers with my DC Header but its weakness is in the smaller collector compared to the other headers mentioned above which have a 2.5" collector.
HAHAHAHA Don't listen to these dudes. There are too many people who think you need to just slap on the most expensive parts without considering other engine mods.
Anyway, to answer your first question, the header you buy will need to be designed for your particular model chassis. The primaries section of the header (the top part of the header that mounts to the head) is the same for all H22 engines. The difference between the headers is the length of the downpipe.
4th Gen Preludes have the longest downpipe, then is the Type SH, then the Base is the shortest.
If you have a 96 Accord with an H22, I am almost positive you will need to buy a header designed for a 4th Gen PRELUDE. 5th Gen Accords and 4th Gen Preludes have the same length headers.
As for which one to get, if you only plan for simple bolt-ons, a Greddy header is a good choice, or a DC Sports with a 2.5" collector. The more expensive headers are nice and all, but are only worth it if you have internal mods (i.e. pistons, cams).
Another thing to note is that you should sit down and think what you plan to do before you buy a cat-back exhaust (assuming you haven't done so already). I don't think getting a 2.5" diameter exhaust is a bad idea even if you stick with a 2.25" header and cat.
The key to modding is making sure your mods work efficiently with each other. Just slapping on expensive parts does not mean you will maximize your performance output. Unfortunately, there are VERY few people who understand this concept.
Anyway, to answer your first question, the header you buy will need to be designed for your particular model chassis. The primaries section of the header (the top part of the header that mounts to the head) is the same for all H22 engines. The difference between the headers is the length of the downpipe.
4th Gen Preludes have the longest downpipe, then is the Type SH, then the Base is the shortest.
If you have a 96 Accord with an H22, I am almost positive you will need to buy a header designed for a 4th Gen PRELUDE. 5th Gen Accords and 4th Gen Preludes have the same length headers.
As for which one to get, if you only plan for simple bolt-ons, a Greddy header is a good choice, or a DC Sports with a 2.5" collector. The more expensive headers are nice and all, but are only worth it if you have internal mods (i.e. pistons, cams).
Another thing to note is that you should sit down and think what you plan to do before you buy a cat-back exhaust (assuming you haven't done so already). I don't think getting a 2.5" diameter exhaust is a bad idea even if you stick with a 2.25" header and cat.
The key to modding is making sure your mods work efficiently with each other. Just slapping on expensive parts does not mean you will maximize your performance output. Unfortunately, there are VERY few people who understand this concept.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HAHAHAHA Don't listen to these dudes. There are too many people who think you need to just slap on the most expensive parts without considering other engine mods.
Anyway, to answer your first question, the header you buy will need to be designed for your particular model chassis. The primaries section of the header (the top part of the header that mounts to the head) is the same for all H22 engines. The difference between the headers is the length of the downpipe.
4th Gen Preludes have the longest downpipe, then is the Type SH, then the Base is the shortest.
If you have a 96 Accord with an H22, I am almost positive you will need to buy a header designed for a 4th Gen PRELUDE. 5th Gen Accords and 4th Gen Preludes have the same length headers.
As for which one to get, if you only plan for simple bolt-ons, a Greddy header is a good choice, or a DC Sports with a 2.5" collector. The more expensive headers are nice and all, but are only worth it if you have internal mods (i.e. pistons, cams).
Another thing to note is that you should sit down and think what you plan to do before you buy a cat-back exhaust (assuming you haven't done so already). I don't think getting a 2.5" diameter exhaust is a bad idea even if you stick with a 2.25" header and cat.
The key to modding is making sure your mods work efficiently with each other. Just slapping on expensive parts does not mean you will maximize your performance output. Unfortunately, there are VERY few people who understand this concept.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Get'em Andy!
Anywho you should search this has been covered 4382643^88 times. I would go with Greddy-modified as well, although I hear DC comes with a 2 1/2 inch collector now too. Regardless Greddy's still have larger primaries.
Anyway, to answer your first question, the header you buy will need to be designed for your particular model chassis. The primaries section of the header (the top part of the header that mounts to the head) is the same for all H22 engines. The difference between the headers is the length of the downpipe.
4th Gen Preludes have the longest downpipe, then is the Type SH, then the Base is the shortest.
If you have a 96 Accord with an H22, I am almost positive you will need to buy a header designed for a 4th Gen PRELUDE. 5th Gen Accords and 4th Gen Preludes have the same length headers.
As for which one to get, if you only plan for simple bolt-ons, a Greddy header is a good choice, or a DC Sports with a 2.5" collector. The more expensive headers are nice and all, but are only worth it if you have internal mods (i.e. pistons, cams).
Another thing to note is that you should sit down and think what you plan to do before you buy a cat-back exhaust (assuming you haven't done so already). I don't think getting a 2.5" diameter exhaust is a bad idea even if you stick with a 2.25" header and cat.
The key to modding is making sure your mods work efficiently with each other. Just slapping on expensive parts does not mean you will maximize your performance output. Unfortunately, there are VERY few people who understand this concept.
</TD></TR></TABLE>Get'em Andy!
Anywho you should search this has been covered 4382643^88 times. I would go with Greddy-modified as well, although I hear DC comes with a 2 1/2 inch collector now too. Regardless Greddy's still have larger primaries.
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<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The more expensive headers are nice and all, but are only worth it if you have internal mods (i.e. pistons, cams).
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok andy, lets not get to ahead of our selves
this statement is not true.....the beauty of a custom header is that it is custom.....you tell them what is done to your motor and they build it to your needs. The fact is that a custom header will out perform an "off the shelf" header even on a stock motor......and you can pick up an rmf for about $800 if you don't mind sitting on the waiting list.
any h22 header will fit on any h22, the problem comes in if you want everything to bolt right up to the rest of the exhaust......however if you are going to an exhaust shop to have it welded....they can add or remove pipe as needed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The key to modding is making sure your mods work efficiently with each other. </TD></TR></TABLE>
and i'm pretty sure they key to "modding" is getting it tuned on a dyno when you are done
</TD></TR></TABLE>
ok andy, lets not get to ahead of our selves
this statement is not true.....the beauty of a custom header is that it is custom.....you tell them what is done to your motor and they build it to your needs. The fact is that a custom header will out perform an "off the shelf" header even on a stock motor......and you can pick up an rmf for about $800 if you don't mind sitting on the waiting list.
any h22 header will fit on any h22, the problem comes in if you want everything to bolt right up to the rest of the exhaust......however if you are going to an exhaust shop to have it welded....they can add or remove pipe as needed
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The key to modding is making sure your mods work efficiently with each other. </TD></TR></TABLE>
and i'm pretty sure they key to "modding" is getting it tuned on a dyno when you are done
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B.Rabbit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you have to modifty the collector in order for it to fit. Perfect time to do the 2.5" collector mod
</TD></TR></TABLE>
is this for my question?
</TD></TR></TABLE>is this for my question?
^yeah it is, and the second paragraph in mine will help too......you can get any header for an h22 and take it to an exhaust shop and they can add/remove pipe as needed......if you want to be able to unbolt it later.....then go to kteller.com and buy some flanges and have the exhaust shop weld them on after they cut the pipe to fit.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B.Rabbit »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">eh</TD></TR></TABLE>
lol, exactly
Custom headers are worth every penny if you use them for what they are built for.
A cheap *** header will only get you so far.......
lol, exactly
Custom headers are worth every penny if you use them for what they are built for.
A cheap *** header will only get you so far.......
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skunked »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Custom headers are worth every penny if you use them for what they are built for.
A cheap *** header will only get you so far.......</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fact.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">=Anyway, to answer your first question, the header you buy will need to be designed for your particular model chassis. The primaries section of the header (the top part of the header that mounts to the head) is the same for all H22 engines. The difference between the headers is the length of the downpipe.
4th Gen Preludes have the longest downpipe, then is the Type SH, then the Base is the shortest.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fact.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HAHAHAHA Don't listen to these dudes. There are too many people who think you need to just slap on the most expensive parts without considering other engine mods.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Talk to anyone who has seen and experienced both worlds.
Custom headers are worth every penny if you use them for what they are built for.
A cheap *** header will only get you so far.......</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fact.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">=Anyway, to answer your first question, the header you buy will need to be designed for your particular model chassis. The primaries section of the header (the top part of the header that mounts to the head) is the same for all H22 engines. The difference between the headers is the length of the downpipe.
4th Gen Preludes have the longest downpipe, then is the Type SH, then the Base is the shortest.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Fact.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HAHAHAHA Don't listen to these dudes. There are too many people who think you need to just slap on the most expensive parts without considering other engine mods.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Talk to anyone who has seen and experienced both worlds.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ucd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Talk to anyone who has seen and experienced both worlds.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yes sir
Talk to anyone who has seen and experienced both worlds.</TD></TR></TABLE>yes sir
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From: Tucson...Cactus Town, Az, usa
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ucd »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Talk to anyone who has seen and experienced both worlds.</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is very true, i had a stainless dc header (which cracked on me) and bought an SMSP and without a tune it was night and day difference in performance and sound. I later had it tuned and I can say it's worth every penny and the wait.
Talk to anyone who has seen and experienced both worlds.</TD></TR></TABLE>this is very true, i had a stainless dc header (which cracked on me) and bought an SMSP and without a tune it was night and day difference in performance and sound. I later had it tuned and I can say it's worth every penny and the wait.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AndyD »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">HAHAHAHA Don't listen to these dudes. There are too many people who think you need to just slap on the most expensive parts without considering other engine mods.
Anyway, to answer your first question, the header you buy will need to be designed for your particular model chassis. The primaries section of the header (the top part of the header that mounts to the head) is the same for all H22 engines. The difference between the headers is the length of the downpipe.
4th Gen Preludes have the longest downpipe, then is the Type SH, then the Base is the shortest.
If you have a 96 Accord with an H22, I am almost positive you will need to buy a header designed for a 4th Gen PRELUDE. 5th Gen Accords and 4th Gen Preludes have the same length headers.
As for which one to get, if you only plan for simple bolt-ons, a Greddy header is a good choice, or a DC Sports with a 2.5" collector. The more expensive headers are nice and all, but are only worth it if you have internal mods (i.e. pistons, cams).
Another thing to note is that you should sit down and think what you plan to do before you buy a cat-back exhaust (assuming you haven't done so already). I don't think getting a 2.5" diameter exhaust is a bad idea even if you stick with a 2.25" header and cat.
The key to modding is making sure your mods work efficiently with each other. Just slapping on expensive parts does not mean you will maximize your performance output. Unfortunately, there are VERY few people who understand this concept.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
I disagree with you there. The H22 has some of the greatest gain potentials out there because it's one of the biggest Honda engines. Most after market header companies build stuff at a low cost to sell a ton of product. I hate to pick on DC for this example but it's one I know. When DC builds an USDM 4-2-1 header for a 1.5L Civic, to a 1.8L vtec ITR to a 2.2L vtec for the Prelude, they all have one thing in common. Th eprimaires are 1-5/8", the seocndaries are 1-3/4" and the collector is 2" OD. So what does this mean? DC has better gains in the smaller engine sizes. Most of the stuff made in China are copies of DC so the problem remains. A H22, even a bone stock H22 needs more the 1-5/8" primaries.
Anyway, to answer your first question, the header you buy will need to be designed for your particular model chassis. The primaries section of the header (the top part of the header that mounts to the head) is the same for all H22 engines. The difference between the headers is the length of the downpipe.
4th Gen Preludes have the longest downpipe, then is the Type SH, then the Base is the shortest.
If you have a 96 Accord with an H22, I am almost positive you will need to buy a header designed for a 4th Gen PRELUDE. 5th Gen Accords and 4th Gen Preludes have the same length headers.
As for which one to get, if you only plan for simple bolt-ons, a Greddy header is a good choice, or a DC Sports with a 2.5" collector. The more expensive headers are nice and all, but are only worth it if you have internal mods (i.e. pistons, cams).
Another thing to note is that you should sit down and think what you plan to do before you buy a cat-back exhaust (assuming you haven't done so already). I don't think getting a 2.5" diameter exhaust is a bad idea even if you stick with a 2.25" header and cat.
The key to modding is making sure your mods work efficiently with each other. Just slapping on expensive parts does not mean you will maximize your performance output. Unfortunately, there are VERY few people who understand this concept.
</TD></TR></TABLE>I disagree with you there. The H22 has some of the greatest gain potentials out there because it's one of the biggest Honda engines. Most after market header companies build stuff at a low cost to sell a ton of product. I hate to pick on DC for this example but it's one I know. When DC builds an USDM 4-2-1 header for a 1.5L Civic, to a 1.8L vtec ITR to a 2.2L vtec for the Prelude, they all have one thing in common. Th eprimaires are 1-5/8", the seocndaries are 1-3/4" and the collector is 2" OD. So what does this mean? DC has better gains in the smaller engine sizes. Most of the stuff made in China are copies of DC so the problem remains. A H22, even a bone stock H22 needs more the 1-5/8" primaries.
Check out this site they make a 2.5 inch collector custom and you can get one for as little as $300-$400
http://www.explicitspeedperfor....html
http://www.explicitspeedperfor....html
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