I've done a search but I must be a tard cause I can't find much on the 3g. My b21 broke a crank. Yes, a crank. I'd like to drop in a b18 or b16 but I can't find mounts for the car. Hasport has nothing listed and Place racings site STILL isn't done. Are there other mount manufacturers that might have something for my car? I know these mounts aren't scratch built by each swapper.

Also, what can I expect from the axle/ half shaft? I figure I can't use the ones from the b21. Please tell me they don't have to be built from scratch!

Thanks

 

It's not you, i was considering putting an H22 in my 90 Si but i gave up. Not a very popular car to swap with, and i dont recommend a b16 or b18 in that car it's too heavy. But an H22 in your car can be done place racing sells a mount kit. Good luck

 

A b16 or 18 can't be heavier than an h22. I remember reading that the h22 was 80-100lbs heavier than a b16.

There was a turbo b16 3g a while back when hp.com was still around. 3g info is hard as hell to come by!

 

Theres not many of us 3rd gen people on h-t.com but here are some sites that are more 3rd gen oriented.

http://www.teaminterlude.com <----buddy of mine has a write up on h22 swap
http://www.3rdgenprelude.com
http://www.preludepower.com
http://www.preludeonline.com

But if you are wanting to do a swap, go with the h22. Thats the only engine that has a "BOLT-IN" kit (i guess its bolt in to place racings standards) available. B16/18 can be done but there is no mount kit available..not worth the money anyway.

 

Thanks!

 

h22 with the place racing kit (with slight modifications) is the only bigger motor. A straight bolt in is the JDM b20a, about 650$ shipped. I have the JDM b20a and just had the bottom end fully built for boost by golden eagle. I know a good share about 3rd gens, if you have any questions feel free to PM me.

 

I'm not really looking for more displacement, just an engine that uses it more efficantly. I would emagine that the h22 wouldn't be practical for a street car. Doesn't it weigh about 80-100lbs more than a b16? Why hasn't a b series swap been done? I would think that it'd be easier to swap in a b16 or 18 than to drop in an h22.

 

A v-tec b series obviously has more HP, but because of the weight of the car, it simply dose not provide enough torque. Your best bet will be to get a JDM B20A. They are cheap and reliable. Whatever you do, don't ever get another B21. Those are complete garbage.

 

 

I was thinking the same thing recently about my car i have a 90 Si with the B21 and it burns so much oil its ridicilous.

 

I agree on the b21. As for the weight, don't the two cars weigh about the same? 2600lbs?

 

Come to think of it you're right my car weighs 2690 lbs, it weighed 2850 with me in it at the track where my best time was a 16.7. The civic Si probably weighs around the same maybe 100 lbs lighter same goes for the integra.

 

Why don't you try an H23 setup from someone who is upgrading to an H22 setup?
You will get a whole lot more torque out of the box than with a B-series, and the same flywheel hp as a B-series without revving the **** out of it.

You can find these engines for quite reasonable prices.

Just my $.02



[Modified by BAZ, 1:36 AM 3/29/2003]

 

Weight of the car? If we compare the weight of the car to other cars that carry the B16A/B18C stock, you will notice that the weights compared to a 3g Prelude is not that far off.

A 3g Prelude weighs in at roughly 2600lbs. So does a Civic Si, and the Integra.

IMO, the B18 is the best bet; I'd skip the B16A, b/c it has less torque then a B20A. The B18 has alittle less torque then a B20A, so the B18 would get my choice. I wouldn't get a H22A, simply b/c that is a 80lbs difference placed in the nose of the car; it'll cause massive understeer at the limits.

This is a moot point however, b/c it is almost impossible to swap unless you have alot of money.

David

 

Yeah, definately don't get another B21A!!!!! I burn about a quart and a half every 400 highway miles with mine. I'm either doing a JDM B20a swap with some slight head work maybe or an H23a if I really want to invest the money and time in it. I have no intention of selling this car very soon and I'll continue to add to it after college, but it will take a back burner position when I find a car to restore or I turn the magic age of 25 and I can afford insurance on something like a WRX.

 

Dude unless you want to spend ominious amounts of cash on vtec swap like the h22 then by all means go for it.

As far as the other b series motors used in our cars not only is this not feasable but it is highly unsuggested becuse of a the placement and the type of shifter our cars use, we need a cable actuated shifting tranny which tosses every popular b series engine out the window, and if you're hell bent you have some major chassis modifications needed like cutting out the shifter and the whole unit out of a rod linkage honda, then you run into the hassles of trying to get the engine placed in the bay with a custom one off kit, then you have to deal with custom length axles and any future replacements which will be hard as hell to acquire if you ever need to do maintenance on the car, to be honest with you if you want a swap that is straight forward and done in a day's worth of work and dedication then get the jdm b20a, but if you would rather get a little creative and would like a fresh engine then try this method which i have done and it has served me well. I purchased a blown b20 block and then i purchased the largest oversized b21 pistons and rings i could get from the factory, i then had the block overbored to ccept the larger bore, and then had the head milled, now understand that the factory b21 engine had a compression ratio of 9.4 or 9.6 to 1 and then you couple that to the b20 head which is a higher compression head the only point where the compression was lower in the b20 engine was becuase of the deeper dish in the piston crowns, now overall im probably running about 9.6-9.8 compression now take that then go and toss all your old parts on the car which is my headers and cold air, invest in a used safc from apex and about 50 bucks of dyno time to get your timing prime and then you have a very decent daily driver.

By the way yes i know my punctuation sucks but oh well i hope i got my point accross ill be back to check on this and it's nice to be apart of a kick *** place like h-t.com.

 

4 cylinder cars do not have "headers". They have 1 header for one head. Now a 6 cylinder or 8 cylinder on the other hand, makes use of 2 heads, theirfor needing a header for each head. Only 1 head on a 4 cylinder. Sorry to sound like a dick, but that is one of my pet peves.

 

You can get an H22a that is not too much expensive and it yields the most power and torque. don't screw with the b series

 

boostedb20, ive got a question regarding jdm b20a's... ive heard it is quite difficult to locate parts for the jdm b20, such as a timing belt and a water pump here in the states. i have been able to find a jdm b20 in excellent shape for 500 dollars, only thing keeping my from purchasing the motor is the availability of parts here in the states... i have been told that usdm parts will not swap over...

what are you doing to find parts? who are you purchasing parts from? if i can find a reliable source of parts, i will go ahead with the swap...

 

You can use any bolt on parts from a b21a1 or a b20a5. I got a new water pump and oil pump from some on-line store. Just order the parts for a b20a5. I got tons of new OEM parts for my rebuild. Not hard at all to find. Lemme know if you have any more questions, always glad to help.

 

really? thats weird... ive always been told that the b20a5 and the jdm b20a (the motor that swaps into both a third gen prelude and a third gen accord) have different sized cam gears and and water pumps, therefore parts, including a timing belt will not swap... not only that, ive been told that the jdm b20a and the b21a1 (si motor) have almost nothing in common... if what you are saying is true, i will most definitely purchase the motor... by any chance, you happen to know what your source for oem parts was???

thanks for the help

 

have a lot of experience with buying OEM parts from these guys and would recomend them to anyone, nine times out of ten they are cheaper too, damn good pricing on all of thier stuff

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...catdisplay.jsp

 

That place is also good for seeing what parts will swap from different engines.

I'd also like to know if the jdm b20 has different watter pump and cam gears. That would be a major influence on my engine choise.

The car is a dayly driver so the h22 is out of the question for handling reasons. I would do a b18 swap if it were my project car and I had more time for it. Drive axles and linkages don't really bother me. I do that on kitcars where I work. However, it does take allot of time that I don't have. I think I'll go with the jdm b20 unless I have trouble finding parts like the watter pump and such.

So far, the only place I've found that sells the b20 is nipponmotors.com but I don't think it comes with the ecu or tranny. I won't use a usdm tranny, eventhough I have one, on the jdm engine due to its higher final drive. Does anyone know of any other handelers that sell the entire package?

Thanks for everyones input!

 

Can someone confirm that I'll need to use the usdm b21 ecu?

 

are you kidding the b21 ecu is the best ecu offered for the third gen lude all becuase of the fact of the revamps they did on it versus the b20 ecu, and yes as long as you bolt the intake and exhaust manifold up to the engine all the other sensors from your b21 will bolt straight onto the b20a block without any modifications