TUTORIAL: Changing the ELD (with pics)
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TUTORIAL: Changing the ELD (with pics)
Here's my first ever tutorial. Comments are encouraged for feedback.
PLEASE CHECK FOR ANY LOOSE GROUND CONNECTIONS, ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY BEFORE PROCEEDING. SOUND SYSTEMS AND OTHER NON-STOCK ELECTRONICS CAN ALSO CAUSE PROBLEMS. This tutorial may also work for other models. Sometimes there will be a trouble code p1297 and p1298. I'm writing this hoping that it helps someone out. This was done on a 2007 Honda Fit Sport A/T with 160K miles, 100% stock.
I have been chasing a very elusive problem with the battery light turning on and off. I was also getting random cases of a dead battery, so I thought the alternator was the culprit. It was sitting at around 12.5V while idle (later found out this is actually normal with no load on the system). Replacing the alternator and battery seemed to help a little (flickering headlights went away) but the battery light still flashed.
I hooked up my OBDII reader and kept a close watch on the system voltage from 2 points of view (at the ECU and the adapter). I could recreate the low voltage symptom with no electrical load (lights off, radio off, ac/heat off). The battery light would always turn on while accelerating (it would sometimes stay lit until I turned on the ac) and decelerating below 30 mph. It would also randomly turn on and off while cruising between 35-50 mph. The light turned on when I came to a stop. Shifting to Park turned off the light. At freeway speeds it would never light. The adapter and ECU both saw between 11.8V and 12.0V when the battery light illuminated. When driving at night (lights on, ac on) it never illuminated. I turned on everything at full power (ac at full blast, headlights with fog lights, rear defroster on, radio at high volume, front and rear wipers) and the light stayed off while idling and driving. The voltage was around 13.2V with everything on.After lots of research and a little observation, I was finally convinced that there was a problem with my ELD (electric load detector). I suspected that my ELD was malfunctioning causing my alternator to conserve more power than normal and thus triggering the battery light. Please keep in mind this is NOT a voltage regulator. That part is inside the alternator.
More info about how the ELD works: Honda Electrical System Diagnostics
Honda claims the ELD cannot be replaced separately. They say it must be replaced with the fuse box. I didn't want to spend $$$ so I decided to tear apart my fuse box. The ELD cost me $35 from the dealer (I've seen them as low as $20 on ebay). Just look up part number 38255-S5A-003. This ELD is used in a wide variety of Hondas.
Make sure you disconnect the battery before proceeding (I removed mine). Now I will show you how to remove the ELD.
PLEASE CHECK FOR ANY LOOSE GROUND CONNECTIONS, ALTERNATOR AND BATTERY BEFORE PROCEEDING. SOUND SYSTEMS AND OTHER NON-STOCK ELECTRONICS CAN ALSO CAUSE PROBLEMS. This tutorial may also work for other models. Sometimes there will be a trouble code p1297 and p1298. I'm writing this hoping that it helps someone out. This was done on a 2007 Honda Fit Sport A/T with 160K miles, 100% stock.
I have been chasing a very elusive problem with the battery light turning on and off. I was also getting random cases of a dead battery, so I thought the alternator was the culprit. It was sitting at around 12.5V while idle (later found out this is actually normal with no load on the system). Replacing the alternator and battery seemed to help a little (flickering headlights went away) but the battery light still flashed.
I hooked up my OBDII reader and kept a close watch on the system voltage from 2 points of view (at the ECU and the adapter). I could recreate the low voltage symptom with no electrical load (lights off, radio off, ac/heat off). The battery light would always turn on while accelerating (it would sometimes stay lit until I turned on the ac) and decelerating below 30 mph. It would also randomly turn on and off while cruising between 35-50 mph. The light turned on when I came to a stop. Shifting to Park turned off the light. At freeway speeds it would never light. The adapter and ECU both saw between 11.8V and 12.0V when the battery light illuminated. When driving at night (lights on, ac on) it never illuminated. I turned on everything at full power (ac at full blast, headlights with fog lights, rear defroster on, radio at high volume, front and rear wipers) and the light stayed off while idling and driving. The voltage was around 13.2V with everything on.After lots of research and a little observation, I was finally convinced that there was a problem with my ELD (electric load detector). I suspected that my ELD was malfunctioning causing my alternator to conserve more power than normal and thus triggering the battery light. Please keep in mind this is NOT a voltage regulator. That part is inside the alternator.
More info about how the ELD works: Honda Electrical System Diagnostics
Honda claims the ELD cannot be replaced separately. They say it must be replaced with the fuse box. I didn't want to spend $$$ so I decided to tear apart my fuse box. The ELD cost me $35 from the dealer (I've seen them as low as $20 on ebay). Just look up part number 38255-S5A-003. This ELD is used in a wide variety of Hondas.
Make sure you disconnect the battery before proceeding (I removed mine). Now I will show you how to remove the ELD.
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From: Super Troll slayer valley
Re: TUTORIAL: Changing the ELD (with pics)
Nice job. But note the grease on the connector. I believe that is there to prevent corrosion so when taking it apart and re-connecting make sure to re-coat that connector WITHOUT getting any on the inside of it.
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