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New, bigger tires, 225/70R16 Yokohama Geolander G015 mounted on the car.
Being a 5.2% larger than stock size giving an additional 18mm lift to the car.
Total lift now being 4.8cm (1.89") on the V
With bigger tires comes some rubbing issues.
In the rear it was rubbing against the strut tower on a 16x7.5 ET 35 rim.
Added 21mm spacers in the rear making it pretty flush with an ET of 14.
In the front it was rubbing against the inner splash shields at full turn with 15mm spacers.
With a few bolts and screws and some rods, the inner guards were pulled inwards making more space and wheel moves freely
Got myself a trailer step manufactured by the same guy that did my roof basket.
Now easier to reach the roof and also for my dog to jump into the rear with the 5cm lift, she is not large and it is just about on the millimeter she gets in on one jump.
Ace work as usual!
Added some extra LED´s in the step which are connected to the reverse light.
Also installed my new tow ball with jaw coupling - basically enforced security from being hit from behind
Been a bit busy lately so not much has happened.
However one of the latest projects I have had, is to change the 4 spoke steering wheel of plastic to something more comfortable for long drives.
So I got myself a leather wheel from a Accord 7th Gen 2005
First thing to do is to remove the black H emblem which turned out to be much more difficult than I could imagine
Further it turned out that the controls for stereo and cruise control is completely different between the two models.
The top loom is from the Accord wheel and the lower from the V
They have different size plug going into the spigot ring, so will need to cut the plug and try to match the cables to the V plug.
The Accord cruise control uses 5 cables and the V have 3
The Accord wheel also have the cruise button on the wheel where it is located on the left on the dash in the V, so it makes it to 4 cables left.
Then I've noticed that one cable seems to go from the cruise control, through the connecting cable for the signal horn? on the Accord.
On the V it is a separate cable from the spigot ring. Is that a joint ground? As Hondas are negative wired I mean?
Cable is green with yellow line and 1 silver dot. While on the V it is just brown for the signal horn.
That leaves 3 cables left for the cruise control to match up then.
Stereo controls are two cables on both, so there it is a 50/50 chance to connect them correctly.
Will have to look up the schematics for the cruise control but the stereo was an easy fix.
So much more convenient and comfortable to hold and drive with now.
Added a red H for the steering wheel to match red on the front grille.
Where did you get your custom brake lines from again? I looked up that website on the bag in the picture, but nothing comes up =\ I might need them after the lift.
Thanks!.... but I emailed them and apparently they only make brake lines for motorcycles. I was told that a separate company makes the brake lines for cars. They didnt tell me who though. Any ideas?
This is the kit I ordered
Don't know if there is a difference in length on the diesel though, but I asked the guy to do them 2cm longer (30mm spacers on mine) which he added for free
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F 283013539973
I also found three other brands on braided brake lines for the 2.0 engine.
CP Racetec I have in my Civic for the last 18 months and really happy with their performance
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F 182041800921
Hel is another well known brand here in Europe.
CP is from the same manufacturer just a "cheaper" name.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F 322615009033
And this brand I have no idea about..
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F 323119354905
Got hold of some second hand aftermarket "JDM" fog lights, since they are no longer available to buy new
Not a 100% fit but decent enough.
I also went ahead and wired up the rear fog lights to function as position lights as well as fog lights
Added two 3/4 inch red LED lights in my towbar step as well
You're gonna need to get a second battery and bigger alternator!
Have already upgraded the battery to a 77ah
Also three of these 9" bad boys (100w each) are going up on the roof. (Bosch Big Knick 225, famous for useage in rallye motorsports here in Europe)
I had some rubbing trouble in the rear when the rear was fully compresses (easier when fully loaded and bad roads ) the tires rubbed the wheel well as I run ET10 on the rear wheels.
So I had some coil springs assisters installed on the rear springs and they tightened up the rid a lot, and no more fully compressed springs.
Will be running these until I buy the OME springs for the rear.
Installed a reverse camera as I can´t see properly due to the 80% tint in the widows, now I can and I love it.
Just all the wiring the nuts me out, have a snake farm behind the headunit
Also decided to upgrade the reverse light (also works well to keep tailgaters on a distance)
Since I wasn´t very keen on paying a small fortune for a front grill, I decided to make my own.
So I bought a plastic honeycomb net piece, 4mm thick for ridigity, and sawed out a piece that was equal to the inner part of the OEM grill
Then used the dremel and cut of the bars of the back panel and took off the frame chrome piece.
Fitted the honeycomb net to the back panel and marked where to cut off excessive net for a better fit.
Then took a plier and bent off all the plastic tabs that held the previous bars in place.
Then just fixated the net with the 6 screws that holds the frame to the back panel, ofc had to get longer screws as the 4mm material is in the way.
Did kind of a botch job though as it will sit for the winter before I fix the rest i.e sand down the grill and fit it more properly for a more flush fit
Sticking out 4mm at the sides because of the net thickness.
Had to rewire my auxiliary electrical system (for the lights/gauges/bass and stuff) since my previous wiring put to much stress on the fuse holder and decided to melt it instead
So instead of having all current going through one 8 fuse holder, I divided it up into one 6 fuse for the lights and one 4 for the auxiliary things.
Guess it will lower the stress on the holder as the lights together will draw 42.5A when hitting full beam (previous light set up drew 55.4A)
Divided up the power feeding as well which gives me a new battery point if I need to hook up something more
Also added an extra ground point to the battery.
Through the grounding in the sway bar it is connected at all bolts that holds it in place which gives it a better connection.
A new year means new lights if not.
Upgraded my three 9" roof halogen lights to four 7" LEDs with DRL light in them.
They are unusual here so a lot of heads turn when I´m out driving and they also fit in better look wise on the car
I also installed a remote controlled flash relay for fun and installed 9W rock lights to be able to avoid stepping into mud/water or other nasty things in the dark.
Ofc connected to the flash relay as well on
And added a black spare wheel cover to break off the boring one color scheme on the car.
It is now a nix of Cosmic Grey (OEM color) and black details as roof spoiler, spare wheel cover, headlights, grille, wheels
04-25-2018, 05:18 AM
Re: Clabbe´s RD9 build
