did you check your distributor and see if anything looked abnormal?

 

Not yet, well I didn't, but my dad might have.

edit: I'm planning to change the Cap and rotor, but what brand should I go with?

 

What else should I be looking at besides the cap, rotor, and wires?

edit: which spark plug wire would be better? Denso or NGK? NGK is $56. Denso is $37.

 

Ok.. my problem seems to happen when the car isn't moving also.

This video is recorded when the car is in parked gear. I had my foot steady, didn't let it go, but the RPM still goes up and down by itself.

@4.5k rpm, dropping up and down. My foot is steady, didn't let it go or push it. The car did it on it's own.


@3k rpm, dropping up and down. Same as the 4.5k rpm, foot steady.

 

What two red warning lights are lit in the cluster?

Does the CEL turn on and then off after 2 seconds when the key is turned from OFF to ON(II)?

 

The red was "Brake" and "Seatbelt"

Yes, the CEL turns on and then off after 2 seconds when the car is on.

 

 

^^^how do I do it if so?

 

The TPS sensor attached to the throttle body has three wires, two of which are Red/Blk and Grn/Blk. Near the sensor, scrape away a very small amount of insulation to expose the wires -- just enough to make contact with the probes of a digital multimeter. Turn the key to ON(II) and measure voltage between these two wires with the throttle closed versus wide open. Do you measure about 0.5V or 4.5V, respectively, at these two throttle positions? Are the voltages steady and do they steadily increase as the throttle slowly moves from closed to wide open?

 

Got a little lazy to check the sensor, ended up buying it on eBay for $22. I'll see if that will fix it which I hope it will.

 

question.. how do I replace the TPS? I can't figure out how to get it off.

 

Use a Dremel tool to score a groove into the head of the screws holding the TPS to the throttle body. Then use a screwdriver to remove the screws.


Did you test the TPS output voltages to know whether or not it is bad? You will need to measure voltages to calibrate the new sensor anyway, so you may as well test the old one before doing the work.

 

u got to dremel a slot in it so a flathead screwdriver can unscrew it. u can replace it back with those bolts or get new ones. i switched mine to allen heads to make it look cleaner. u have to turn the key on and test the blk n red wire i believe for 4.5-.5 volts then tighten it down make sure u put it back int he way it came out the lil spring will ave tension it it thats how it knows where the throttle is as u push the pedal.

 

I guess I'll test the old one first before doing anything.

 

Don't avoid opportunities to learn how to properly troubleshoot problems. Replacing parts at random is an expensive and poor strategy.

 

Check transmision oil.

 

I already replaced the transmission oil, along with spark plugs and spark plug wires.

 

Replaced the TPS, my dad says it seems to have solved the problem. I didn't get to test the car myself since it was late at night.

 

I take that back...

TPS did not fix the problem... anymore clues?

 

183k miles , when was the timing belt changed?

 

I have no clue.... I didn't change it.. Not sure about the previous owner(s).

 

anyone? I'm driving this car daily and it is dangerous to other drivers behind me when I accelerate from a complete stop since it will suddenly drop rpm to low and then it will take a few second before the rpm suddenly jumps to where it suppose to have been. And it is also hurting my MPG by a lot.

 

it almost sounds like the transmission clutches slipping until line pressure builds. and when it does build enough the computer senses it is time to shift. what was the condition of the fluid. was it dark? and was there much material in it?

 

or check back pressure in the catylitic converter, if you have the tools to do it.

 

The transmission oil is brand new from Honda. The transmission isn't slipping either.

I don't have any tools for that.