runtohell121

I currently driving my 1996 Honda Civic EX Automatic Coupe. Lately I've been noticing that when my car accelerates from a complete stop, it won't go as in like stepping on the gas lightly, it will take it to about 1.5k rpm and stops.. When I push the gas pedal slightly harder, it jumps to 2.3k-3k rpm right away from 1.5k rpm. It happens quite a lot lately. I don't know what's the problem, no CEL

Former User

When did you do the last ignition system tune up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor)?

runtohell121

wires, cap, and rotor never been replaced since I bought it in September. Spark Plugs, I think I've replaced it.

Basically the feeling is like the car is about to stall.

Former User

Start by replacing the wires, cap, and rotor and by checking the ignition timing.

Did you install OEM NGK plugs?

runtohell121

On all my Honda, I only use NGK plugs.

edit: my dad is thinking the transmission oil?

edit: should I go OEM on the cap and rotor? or what do you recommend?

runtohell121

sorry to double post, but I really want to know is it better to go with OEM cap and rotor or generic ones off eBay or Kragen?

Vindicator9000

OEM Honda stuff is always the best bet.

Generally on small stuff like cap and rotor, I'd say go aftermarket, but I had an O'riley's cap COMPLETELY LOSE one of the contacts. It was just gone.

I had it replaced with another aftermarket cap, but I don't really trust it. I've also had 2 O'Riley's sparkplug wires come apart in my hands.


Honda automatics are sensitive to the transmission fluid. For best results, you should do a drain and fill once a year, using only Honda ATF. That can make a difference.

I think cap and rotor are a good place to start in your case.

runtohell121

Well my dad is planning to buy the oils from Honda and change it tomorrow.

rotor and cap will come next if that doesn't solve it.

apexi_rsx

make sure u flush the torque converter too... drain the sump add fluid. take the two lines off the bottom of the radiator and put them pointing toward the drain pan then put the car on jack stands hold the brake turn the car on and put it in drive so the fluid circulates around so u can get it completely flushed.

runtohell121

where's the torque converter at? Do I need more ATF oil for it?

runtohell121

Here's a video of showing what happens. I did not let go of the gas pedal although it does look like I did.

Former User

In the video, is the transmission in Drive with the brake applied, because the speedo is registering no movement until the end? The tach shows idle rpm until the end of the video when the rpms jump up. Is this happening without pushing the throttle pedal?

runtohell121

the rpm jumps up to 1.5k to 2k rpm to get the car starts moving, then it drops suddenly. I started accelerating from the stop light at 10 second into the video.

Here's another video which I already did accelerated but around 20mph, it started dropping where the car felt like it doesn't move at all. The RPM suddenly drops then suddenly goes up quickly..

Former User

Yeah, start with a basic ignition system tune up.

runtohell121

Tomorrow my dad will change the transmission oil first (he thinks that's causing it which I don't think it is). I will then tell him to get the cap+rotor+spark plug wire next. Hoping that would fix it.

Former User

Actually, your dad may be right. I relooked at both videos and the transmission may be slipping.

runtohell121

Well, I just bought 3 quarts of ATF-Z1 for $28 from Honda. Hopefully that will do the trick after replacing the current fluids.

apexi_rsx

you need about 4 quarts of honda atf. the torque converter is where a clutch in manual transmission goes. its what stalls like when u have the brake on and your in drive it locks out and spins free like if u had a manual car you would have the clutch pushed in. when u hit the gas it locks up under so many rpms and lets the transmission go. your transmission fluid is pumped through the torque converter and through the transmission, it needs to be flushed too it hold almost half your fluid in it alone.

runtohell121

well.. good thing I have an extra quart at home lol.

I hope my dad would know that. He does the oil change for all the cars for the family.

runtohell121

update:
It don't seem like it's the transmission problem.
I just had it changed, drove it for 8 miles, still the same problem.
I took it out on the highway, trying to get speed up to 65 from the ramp, around 30-40 mph, the car rpm dropped and didn't move for a second until I push the gas harder.

Former User

You might want to check the output voltages from the TPS at various throttle angles.

The Collin

Back to the plugs,wires, cap and rotor.

You can go to your local autoparts store and buy OEM equivalent. It's always worked just fine for me.

runtohell121

cap and rotor cost less at dealer than buying it at Kragen when I checked online.

Spark Plug Wires, I'm not sure which brand to go with since I've been using NGK when I need to change my other cars wires. I've had bad experience with brands from Kragen for the wires.

runtohell121

anyone know where I can get the NGK Spark Plug Wires?

runtohell121

Just changed the Spark Plugs, still the same problem, seems to start getting worse.