1998 Civic: Temp/Fuel Gauges not working properly
Hi - first post - I've read some posts about gauges not working at all, but I haven't run across one like my situation - I have a 1998 Civic LX Sedan (D16y7) and a couple of days back it seemed as though my temp gauge was running a little lower than usual - usually runs a little less than halfway between hot and cold, but now running at about 4 or 5 oclock (about 1/4 above cold).
As well, I thought that my fuel gauge suddenly seemed to show more fuel than I thought I had in the tank. Since I usually reset the trip odo at each fillup, I knew when I should be running out of gas fairly soon - so I threw a can of gas in the back and went for a drive. The low fuel light came on with the gauge reading about 1/4 tank left. So I filled it up at the next town and the gauge isn't quite showing full, but pretty close.
Checked/changed fuses - no change. It's like one of the sensors is slightly off, but not fully and it's affecting the other.
Anyone have any experience with this? Thought I'd throw a note out for some tips before I start digging in to the car.
Thanks - Grant
As well, I thought that my fuel gauge suddenly seemed to show more fuel than I thought I had in the tank. Since I usually reset the trip odo at each fillup, I knew when I should be running out of gas fairly soon - so I threw a can of gas in the back and went for a drive. The low fuel light came on with the gauge reading about 1/4 tank left. So I filled it up at the next town and the gauge isn't quite showing full, but pretty close.
Checked/changed fuses - no change. It's like one of the sensors is slightly off, but not fully and it's affecting the other.
Anyone have any experience with this? Thought I'd throw a note out for some tips before I start digging in to the car.
Thanks - Grant
OK, I'll respond to my own message and tell you what I've found - I disconnected the single wire from the ECT sender unit and connected an ohmmeter between the ECT positive terminal and the yellow/green wire to the gauge - the readings were quite high at full temperature (162 ohms) and got larger as the coolant cooled down - last I looked, it was at about 220 ohms and rising.
Interesting though, with this connection in place, if I had the car running, I could not read the ohmmeter. Once I shut the car off, I could read it.
The other test I tried was to attach a lead to the yellow/green wire and ground it to the chassis - from what I read, I thought the temp gauge would increase towards H, but it did not move at all - in fact, it almost seemed that it sucked to the bottom as opposed to increasing - did I connect something wrong?
So, I'm leaning towards a faulty ECT sender unit. Any other suggestions? I haven't tested the fuel gauge yet - I don't want to have to pull things apart to get at the wiring just yet.
Any input or suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Grant
Interesting though, with this connection in place, if I had the car running, I could not read the ohmmeter. Once I shut the car off, I could read it.
The other test I tried was to attach a lead to the yellow/green wire and ground it to the chassis - from what I read, I thought the temp gauge would increase towards H, but it did not move at all - in fact, it almost seemed that it sucked to the bottom as opposed to increasing - did I connect something wrong?
So, I'm leaning towards a faulty ECT sender unit. Any other suggestions? I haven't tested the fuel gauge yet - I don't want to have to pull things apart to get at the wiring just yet.
Any input or suggestions would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Grant
I guess I'll keep talking to myself...... 
So, I think I did the tests wrong - I dug around and found the page from the manual that I had seen earlier to make sure. One test was just plain wrong, while the other I just had a bad ground.
I redid the test of the ECT sending unit since I did this wrong the first time - I connected the ohmmeter to the terminal on the ECT and then to a good ground - when I started, it was reading about 320 ohms - that seems high considering the page from the manual indicated that 142 ohms would be right at a cool temp. Anyways when I ran the engine for awhile, the ohmmeter reading fell to about 72 ohms when the fan kicked in. Again, that seems a bit high.
When I retried the gauge test now that I got a good ground, I connected a lead from the yellow/green to ground - when I turned on the ignition, the gauge immediately jumped to H - had to shut it off quickly! So the gauge seems to be ok.
Anyways, I will continue with my thought that the ECT sender is faulty.
Again, any suggestions/comments are welcome.
Cheers,
G.

So, I think I did the tests wrong - I dug around and found the page from the manual that I had seen earlier to make sure. One test was just plain wrong, while the other I just had a bad ground.
I redid the test of the ECT sending unit since I did this wrong the first time - I connected the ohmmeter to the terminal on the ECT and then to a good ground - when I started, it was reading about 320 ohms - that seems high considering the page from the manual indicated that 142 ohms would be right at a cool temp. Anyways when I ran the engine for awhile, the ohmmeter reading fell to about 72 ohms when the fan kicked in. Again, that seems a bit high.
When I retried the gauge test now that I got a good ground, I connected a lead from the yellow/green to ground - when I turned on the ignition, the gauge immediately jumped to H - had to shut it off quickly! So the gauge seems to be ok.
Anyways, I will continue with my thought that the ECT sender is faulty.
Again, any suggestions/comments are welcome.
Cheers,
G.
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