So I changed my timing belt last weekend and the car started and ran seemingly fine in the garage but it had a the check engine light. When I drove it, I realized it was in limp mode and that it wouldn't rev over 3500 rpm. Other than that, the car drives pretty well except it takes longer to start than usual.

While I had the car apart, I had a water pipe burst in my attic above my garage and some water did get into my engine bay. So I thought it seemed plausible that some could have gotten on the switch, so I ordered one.

I would like to see if just plugging in the new switch causes the circuit malfunction(P0335) to stay gone after I clear it in since I can reach the plug without removing anything. I mean just plug in the new switch and lay it to the side. I know that may cause it to throw something else, but that's fine. I'm just trying to see if it's the switch or the plug. If I don't get anywhere soon, I'll probably order a plug and replace both.

Also, although I OCD checked the timing marks a dozen times before putting it back together, could the timing being off by a tooth cause this? I would think it wouldn't run as well if the timing was off but who knows.

Any thoughts on this would be very, very, very much appreciated. This saga is going on two weeks now and I would love to have my car running normally again. Thanks!

 

First thing to do is check for pinched wires and check the connections at the sensor. If all of that is good:

1. With the ingnition OFF, disconnect the sensor connector.

2. With the ignition ON(II), measure voltage from yellow/black on the harness connector to ground.

Is there battery voltage?

YES- step 3

NO- repair the open in the wire from the main relay to the CKP sensor

3. Measure voltage from blue on the harness connector to ground.

Is there about 5V ?

YES- step 4

NO- step 6

4. On the harness connector, measure voltage from brown/yellow to yellow/black.

Is there battery voltage?

YES- step 5

NO- Repair open in the wire from G101 to the CKP sensor. (G101 is the ground going from the engine block to the radiator support)

5. Replace the sensor and clear and recheck for codes. If you're still getting codes the the ECM/PCM needs to be updated or replaced,

6. Measure voltage from ECM/PCM connector A7 (blue) to body ground.

Is there about 5V ?

YES- Repair the open in the wire from A7 to the CKP sensor.

NO- step 7

7. With the ignition OFF, disconnect ECM/PCM connector A and measure for continuity (ohms) from A7 (blue) on the harness connector to body ground.

Is there continuty?

YES- Repair the short in the wire from A7 to the CKP sensor.

NO- Update or replace the ECM/PCM

*While looking at the ECM/PCM in the dash, connector A is the bottom connector.

 

Sorry, I did that already. I took too long on my first draft and got auto signed out and had to re-write the whole post. I apparently left that part out on the re-write. The wires shot good. All the voltages were correct.

 

If you did the diagnostic tree then you would have found that either the sensor, wire or ECM/PCM is bad. Do it again- the right way.

 

I did it the right way. I want to try to rule out the connector since it's possible there was water intrusion, did you even read the post? Try reading it again- the right way. A connector can shoot good and still not be. I came here for help, not to be talked down to by someone with poor reading comprehension.

 

Just went through this with another member here...there is a post under this. Had him check voltages and they came up normal but he swapped out the connector before I could have him test more (don't get on here often) and it cured this problem.

If you want to make certain, since you have already followed the flow chart and came up with normal results, try measuring resistance at the connector by putting a test lead on the connector end and opposite side on the wire end. Since it is a small piece of the wire resistance should be low, so if you have a high reading you know your connector is your problem.

 

Hi, I don't know if lazlong or anyone else is still following this old thread, but here's my situation: While driving down the highway, my engine went THUNK and died. I was sorry to see it had thrown the timing belt (only 10,000 miles on the Honda OEM belt, replaced at 150K miles). I took the head off, and, while the valves were all bent, none broke, so the cylinder walls weren't damaged. After all new valves, belt, Crankshaft Position Sensor, tensioner, etc., the engine is back together. Now it won't start, and my code reader says it's the CPS circuit. So I replaced the CPS again. Same problem. I went through all the electrical checks, and these are my results. This thread says the solution is to replace or update the ECU. Any ideas on whether or not it's actually an ECU problem before I get into changing that? Could an ECU malfunction cause the engine to throw the timing belt? Thanks, Harold

1. With the ingnition OFF, disconnect the sensor connector.

2. With the ignition ON(II), measure voltage from yellow/black on the harness connector to ground.

Is there battery voltage? YES 12.4V

3. Measure voltage from blue on the harness connector to ground.

Is there about 5V ? YES 4.9V

4. On the harness connector, measure voltage from brown/yellow to yellow/black.

Is there battery voltage? YES 12.4V

5. Replace the sensor and clear and recheck for codes. If you're still getting codes the the ECM/PCM needs to be updated or replaced,

I continued checking:

6. Measure voltage from ECM/PCM connector A7 (blue) to body ground.

Is there about 5V ? *** Voltage fluctuating between 1.5V to 1.9V Weird, since I get 5V at the sensor connector.

7. With the ignition OFF, disconnect ECM/PCM connector A and measure for continuity (ohms) from A7 (blue) on the harness connector to body ground.

Is there continuty? NO

NO- Update or replace the ECM/PCM