CV Boot Replaceable?
x2, have a shop do it, it's not something a beginner should tackle...
if you feel you can handle it, you can buy a new CV boot from honda, also new end clips (the clamps or whatever you call it) unless you can reuse your old. you'll have to pull the cv joint from the shaft and clean everything very well before putting new grease there...
if you feel you can handle it, you can buy a new CV boot from honda, also new end clips (the clamps or whatever you call it) unless you can reuse your old. you'll have to pull the cv joint from the shaft and clean everything very well before putting new grease there...
Yeah, I was surprised how cheap reman CV axles are.
Advanced: $79.99
O-Reilly: $59.99
Do they last 90k miles? We'll find out. Original lasted 98k miles.
I'll just get a reman and figure out how to repair my original one just for kicks.
Thanks.
Advanced: $79.99
O-Reilly: $59.99
Do they last 90k miles? We'll find out. Original lasted 98k miles.
I'll just get a reman and figure out how to repair my original one just for kicks.
Thanks.
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replacing the boots is easy. you can tear it apart and see how the tripod holds the bearings and how the bearing fit into the "cup" not sure what the real name is.
Its messy but in my experience OEM honda axles are stronger than that **** that autozone sells. Good if you launch your car
Just be sure that the bearings are sliding correctly into the cup. i know on my prelude they could go in two ways.
good luck.
Its messy but in my experience OEM honda axles are stronger than that **** that autozone sells. Good if you launch your car
Just be sure that the bearings are sliding correctly into the cup. i know on my prelude they could go in two ways.
good luck.
I called some shops and they only replace the whole axle. No CV boot replacement only.
I think the outboard CV boot can only be replaced from the inboard end.
It looks like the inboard CV joint can slide out of the socket but the boot keeps it from totally sliding out.
That means I have to remove the boot off the inboard CV then slide the new outboard boot.
There is also a rubber piece in the middle of the shaft that needs to be taken out.
I'll try it this weekend and update on my findings. I'll bring it to work and use the parts washer to wash off the grease.
From there I can see how the CV is attached to the shaft.
Thanks.
I think the outboard CV boot can only be replaced from the inboard end.
It looks like the inboard CV joint can slide out of the socket but the boot keeps it from totally sliding out.
That means I have to remove the boot off the inboard CV then slide the new outboard boot.
There is also a rubber piece in the middle of the shaft that needs to be taken out.
I'll try it this weekend and update on my findings. I'll bring it to work and use the parts washer to wash off the grease.
From there I can see how the CV is attached to the shaft.
Thanks.
This is actually a very simple fix. I'll save at least $80 from Advanced or $250 from Majestic.
The outboard CV just snaps out if you give it a quick whack just like how the inboard spline is attached to the transaxle.
CV is washed in the parts washer and ready for the grease and boot kit.
I'll shoot pics later.
The outboard CV just snaps out if you give it a quick whack just like how the inboard spline is attached to the transaxle.
CV is washed in the parts washer and ready for the grease and boot kit.
I'll shoot pics later.
CV axle boot replaced and LCA bushing pressed in and ready to go in.
Boot replacement not really hard but messy due to the grease.
Wear a pair of latex gloves and be ready to get dirty.
Boot replacement not really hard but messy due to the grease.
Wear a pair of latex gloves and be ready to get dirty.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s13_240sx_92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">replacing the boots is easy. you can tear it apart and see how the tripod holds the bearings and how the bearing fit into the "cup" not sure what the real name is.
Its messy but in my experience OEM honda axles are stronger than that **** that autozone sells. Good if you launch your car
Just be sure that the bearings are sliding correctly into the cup. i know on my prelude they could go in two ways.
good luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
autozone, napa, advanced, car quest, whatever, are remanufactured OEM axles. they are just as strong as stock.
Its messy but in my experience OEM honda axles are stronger than that **** that autozone sells. Good if you launch your car
Just be sure that the bearings are sliding correctly into the cup. i know on my prelude they could go in two ways.
good luck.
</TD></TR></TABLE>autozone, napa, advanced, car quest, whatever, are remanufactured OEM axles. they are just as strong as stock.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skipbarber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
autozone, napa, advanced, car quest, whatever, are remanufactured OEM axles. they are just as strong as stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uhh no.. when someone turns in a Chinese made axle as a core and they rebuild it, is it an OEM?
Rebuilders will also use other non OEM parts when rebuilding.
I do agree sometimes its easier just getting a rebuild and call it a day rather than messing with the boots and bearing. But replacing boots isn't hard either, a little messy a little time consuming.
autozone, napa, advanced, car quest, whatever, are remanufactured OEM axles. they are just as strong as stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Uhh no.. when someone turns in a Chinese made axle as a core and they rebuild it, is it an OEM?
Rebuilders will also use other non OEM parts when rebuilding.
I do agree sometimes its easier just getting a rebuild and call it a day rather than messing with the boots and bearing. But replacing boots isn't hard either, a little messy a little time consuming.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fventura03 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how did you get the little clamp back on there afterwards?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The boot kit came with new clamps, axle nut, axle clips and grease.
I just used this tool to crimp the boot clamp. It's made by channel lock.
The boot kit came with new clamps, axle nut, axle clips and grease.
I just used this tool to crimp the boot clamp. It's made by channel lock.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skipbarber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">autozone, napa, advanced, car quest, whatever, are remanufactured OEM axles. they are just as strong as stock.</TD></TR></TABLE>
The factory CV axle even with a torn boot was still tight at 98k miles. I was surprised.
Fix it as soon as you can and do not wait until all the grease is dry and dirt gets in, it should be rebuildable.
Cleaned, repacked and new replacement boot, it's as good as new and still factory original.
I will not trade the original for core exchange with a reman CV from Advanced if it was just a torn boot.
The factory CV axle even with a torn boot was still tight at 98k miles. I was surprised.
Fix it as soon as you can and do not wait until all the grease is dry and dirt gets in, it should be rebuildable.
Cleaned, repacked and new replacement boot, it's as good as new and still factory original.
I will not trade the original for core exchange with a reman CV from Advanced if it was just a torn boot.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AccordEX1991 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The boot kit came with new clamps, axle nut, axle clips and grease.
I just used this tool to crimp the boot clamp. It's made by channel lock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Oh i see, thanks. i thought you might've used the old ones...
The boot kit came with new clamps, axle nut, axle clips and grease.
I just used this tool to crimp the boot clamp. It's made by channel lock.
Oh i see, thanks. i thought you might've used the old ones...
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by s13_240sx_92 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Uhh no.. when someone turns in a Chinese made axle as a core and they rebuild it, is it an OEM?
Rebuilders will also use other non OEM parts when rebuilding.
I do agree sometimes its easier just getting a rebuild and call it a day rather than messing with the boots and bearing. But replacing boots isn't hard either, a little messy a little time consuming.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
last i heard there are regulations that ensure that even aftermarket components must meet or exceed OEM standards. I personally, have no problem using aftermarket components on my car.
Uhh no.. when someone turns in a Chinese made axle as a core and they rebuild it, is it an OEM?
Rebuilders will also use other non OEM parts when rebuilding.
I do agree sometimes its easier just getting a rebuild and call it a day rather than messing with the boots and bearing. But replacing boots isn't hard either, a little messy a little time consuming.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
last i heard there are regulations that ensure that even aftermarket components must meet or exceed OEM standards. I personally, have no problem using aftermarket components on my car.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AccordEX1991 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
The boot kit came with new clamps, axle nut, axle clips and grease.
I just used this tool to crimp the boot clamp. It's made by channel lock.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Arent those tile cutters?
The boot kit came with new clamps, axle nut, axle clips and grease.
I just used this tool to crimp the boot clamp. It's made by channel lock.
Arent those tile cutters?
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dmorris05 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Arent those tile cutters?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope, it is an end cutting plier or nipper. It won't cut through the thick banding clamp. I used it just to pinch the clamp locking tab.
Arent those tile cutters?</TD></TR></TABLE>
Nope, it is an end cutting plier or nipper. It won't cut through the thick banding clamp. I used it just to pinch the clamp locking tab.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by skipbarber »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
last i heard there are regulations that ensure that even aftermarket components must meet or exceed OEM standards. I personally, have no problem using aftermarket components on my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Change your point here eh? Go buy some Taiwan trash OEM body parts and compare them to OEM Honda parts.. then talk to me..
And if you bring up CAPA standards you know even less than you think. the aftermarket industry self regulations mean little to nothing.
You can buy some $20 brake pads from China from autozone for your car.. They meet OEM spes but, are they as good as OEM Honda? F*ck NO!
And if you want to get anecdotal, I have auto zone reman axles fail on more than one occasion in the time/wear, where OEM Axles had faired fine.
last i heard there are regulations that ensure that even aftermarket components must meet or exceed OEM standards. I personally, have no problem using aftermarket components on my car.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Change your point here eh? Go buy some Taiwan trash OEM body parts and compare them to OEM Honda parts.. then talk to me..
And if you bring up CAPA standards you know even less than you think. the aftermarket industry self regulations mean little to nothing.
You can buy some $20 brake pads from China from autozone for your car.. They meet OEM spes but, are they as good as OEM Honda? F*ck NO!
And if you want to get anecdotal, I have auto zone reman axles fail on more than one occasion in the time/wear, where OEM Axles had faired fine.


