I've done some searches.
And everything contradicts itself.
I just have a few questions.

I'm looking at getting an auto 2003 em2

What do I need to make it standard.
Besides the tranny. Do they make an aftermarket mount or can i just modify mine

Next up
K20 swap vs Turbo.
Don't try to convince me its 3k for a turbo kit..
The only thing I am worried about is the tuning.
Assuming its 1400 for a turbo kit, which is better.
I am not looking for a 9 second car but I do want something more than 117 whp.
Whats best to tune it with it.
Would the greddy emanage be fine.

 

to go from auto to manual besides the tranny u need axels and a ecu from 5 speed civic it will mount good

 

ok d17 boosted vs k20
d17:
no a turbo kit does not cost 3k lol its around $900, unles u just wanna run 5lbs psi u need low compression pistons, tune the ecu, get a better tps sensor, a turbo manifold ur gonna spend like 3k on that project if its well done u well have 230whp runnin 14's

k20:
u need motor, tranny, ecu, rsx exhust, rsx shift linkage and a couple more stuff ur gonna spend like 6k on this project and with k20A2, k20Z1, k20z3 runs low 15's k20A3 run 16's

u tell me wich is better u can k-pro both motors, thats another 30hp so u make a desicion

 

The FAQs has a link for Auto to Manual Conversion


Not sure if you've read any of these, so I'll just toss them out there. K Swap, and 305whp turbo buildup.

We also have THE TURBO THREAD - Boost for Noobies! which would be a good spot to ask turbo related questions if you can't find an answer somewhere in it.

 

heh $900 for a turbo kit lmao that might get you a turbo and a turbo mani fold but by the time you add up all the little **** like wastegate, bov, intercooler, and piping engine mangment, sensors, yeah it adds up quick if you want a reliable set-up it starts at 3500 and goes up that is not for big boost and forged internals.

you would be an idiot to by an auto and convert it to a manual just go out and by a manual and it will save you so much more money especially since your looking at switch out mounts, subframe, axles, shift linkage, trans wiring just like a turbo it adds up quick.

oh and these cars don't have 117 hp maybe at the crank but at the wheels it is more like 90 to 95 hp if you want a little more pep for cheap just get a stage 1 cam

 

yea but i was giving him a roughly estimate u feel bro like u said, if u wanna gain bro do stage 1 cam and k-pro ur ecu....u be a gohst

 

Save the trouble and buy a MT em2.

But really, if you're going to buy a k20, swap it in, turbo chage it, etc., you might be better off buying a used fg2. You can get one for about $14k-$15k. An em2 + k-swap will run you for at least $10k-$12k

 

a k20s gonna cost you like 6000. i would just boost your motor a turbo sounds nice for your car

 

Hmm. Any more ideas?

 

D17s are okay.....You can turbo them K-Pro, but another thing you have to think about when doing the turbo is reliability. Do you wanna be under the hood every week making sure there are no leaks and what not. The K20 is gonna give you a very reliable start that you can build on later to yield even better results.

 

turbo is very reliable but only if you take the time to set it up right and run proper engine mangement

 

Ill have proper engine management for sure. I'm just worried about not being able to hit past 225-250 horsepower. Plus all my research says to get thatmuch power I'll have to upgrade internals

 

andyman was boosting a stock bottom end making 300 hp, im not sure what the max power a stock head will squeeze out is but for some reason the number 245 is comming to mind. just throw a set of arp headstuds on for some insurance, and you should be pretty good. and your horsepower goals are very acheivable!

 

So this talk of boosting a d17 requires a massive built motor is non sense? That's whatvi was figuring. Surely it could put out 250...

 

do it right, stop being cheap. build the motor so it can withhold.

 

There's no point to build a motor if it won't hit much more than what it already has. There's also no point to build it if it can handle 300 stock and I'm looking for less.

 

dont build it then, when it blows you'll wish you did

 

i wouldnt push it to the max, however i would trust the stock block to hold enough boost to make plenty of power for a small fwd car. but if your trying to make as much power as possible build it for sure man

 

the rod bolts have been seen to stretch at as low as 7-8 psi but the usually really start to stretch around 11 psi. the block it self will hold what ever you throw at it but the rods can only handle so much and the can hold a lot less if it is un-tuned