progress on the project
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From: cali
Re: (Dforce)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dforce »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> 
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thanks
</TD></TR></TABLE>thanks
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2002
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From: cali
Re: (B16B)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B16B »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Car looks dope, keep up the good work 
p.s. check ya PM
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gota ya back
p.s. check ya PM
</TD></TR></TABLE>gota ya back
Thread Starter
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From: cali
Re: progress on the project (Ek9ReVciVic)
ok i finally got the brakes bleed and ready to go. ATE super blue. Also i got the wiring for the gauges ran, just need to figure out how to mount them now. Also got the wheels painted, i went with white, yes i know it will be filled with brake dust but there 15s i keep um clean
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From: Albany, NY
Re: progress on the project (dclsvtec)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dclsvtec »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">sexy!!!
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Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2002
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From: cali
Re: progress on the project (Code Blue)
finished my splitter/air damn this weekend, It not super low, maybe 1 inch at the minimum and 2.5 at the max, it mainly worked to make the front bumber level instead of the arch it has.
All together this thing took ALOT of work. just alot of little time consuming stuff. But i can now see why RRG charges what they do. Me and my dad figured that at 10 bucks an hour (less than we make at are jobs). This thing just in time cost us 250 bucks, plus the cost of all the other stuff.
But again im alittle nuts and i really liek doing this stuff. so here it is.
the shape isn't perfect but its pretty damn good i think.
the silver metal is some ~1/16 aluminum that is 5 inch tall, i bent one inch of it over and that is what is attached to the white spilter (its called alumalite, thanks Mike!!) I took tin snips and sniped the bent over part every so often as needed, a toatle of 6 i think.
I made the one inch bent by useing a BFH, a 2x4, and a vise. I marked the aluminum all the way down one inch. I then proceded to pound over the one inch section all the way down. If you have access to a bender it would be a hell of alot easier, my old highschool has one but it was only 6 feet long so wouldn't have worked.
I then sealed the aluminum to alumilite with some black silicon, the gap was small but i didn't want any gap.
I used some really beefy Rivets and washers for the rivets on the plastic side, these damn rivets broke 2 heavy duty rivet guns, then picked up one from harbor freight for a 10 bucks and it survived, but i had to take apart the gun to get the old rod out every time.
I attached the alumilte to the aluminum "air damn" with 20 bolt's with some big washers. I started by attaching the bolts were i had made the snips and then just filled in the holes from there. We were going to just do 16 but decided that its better to over do it then have the thing be ripped off while out of the track.
Over all its REALLY strong, i did some pull, kick, rip testes and it held up like a champ. I Finished it all off by sanding and then painting it black but only got the first 2 coats on cause it started to rain.
If any one has any question regarding how to make one, don't hesitate to ask, i had been researching this for a long time, and felt that all of the right up were lacking or didn't like the out come.
the toatle cost of this.
aluminum- 8 bucks in the scrap bin of a metal store
Alumalite- 130 or so from a sign store
rivets, washers, and rivet gun- 75 bucks, brakeing two rivet guns SUCKED
nuts, bolts, and washers-20 bucks
tools, and stuff-
BFH
2x4
vise
rivets, washers, rivet gun
Drill and misc correct drill bits
tin snips
phillips screw driver
open end wrench
and a whole CRAP load of paitents and good thinking
Once i get the motor in the car i will make the nesscacary cuts if needed. i will also be addeding some alumilite to the area were the front jack point is so that i can still use it.
the next project will be making air ducts for the brakes, i still need to order the ducts nd tubbing and come up with a way to get the air to the rotor, hopefully someing good will come up.
All together this thing took ALOT of work. just alot of little time consuming stuff. But i can now see why RRG charges what they do. Me and my dad figured that at 10 bucks an hour (less than we make at are jobs). This thing just in time cost us 250 bucks, plus the cost of all the other stuff.
But again im alittle nuts and i really liek doing this stuff. so here it is.
the shape isn't perfect but its pretty damn good i think.
the silver metal is some ~1/16 aluminum that is 5 inch tall, i bent one inch of it over and that is what is attached to the white spilter (its called alumalite, thanks Mike!!) I took tin snips and sniped the bent over part every so often as needed, a toatle of 6 i think.
I made the one inch bent by useing a BFH, a 2x4, and a vise. I marked the aluminum all the way down one inch. I then proceded to pound over the one inch section all the way down. If you have access to a bender it would be a hell of alot easier, my old highschool has one but it was only 6 feet long so wouldn't have worked.
I then sealed the aluminum to alumilite with some black silicon, the gap was small but i didn't want any gap.
I used some really beefy Rivets and washers for the rivets on the plastic side, these damn rivets broke 2 heavy duty rivet guns, then picked up one from harbor freight for a 10 bucks and it survived, but i had to take apart the gun to get the old rod out every time.
I attached the alumilte to the aluminum "air damn" with 20 bolt's with some big washers. I started by attaching the bolts were i had made the snips and then just filled in the holes from there. We were going to just do 16 but decided that its better to over do it then have the thing be ripped off while out of the track.
Over all its REALLY strong, i did some pull, kick, rip testes and it held up like a champ. I Finished it all off by sanding and then painting it black but only got the first 2 coats on cause it started to rain.
If any one has any question regarding how to make one, don't hesitate to ask, i had been researching this for a long time, and felt that all of the right up were lacking or didn't like the out come.
the toatle cost of this.
aluminum- 8 bucks in the scrap bin of a metal store
Alumalite- 130 or so from a sign store
rivets, washers, and rivet gun- 75 bucks, brakeing two rivet guns SUCKED
nuts, bolts, and washers-20 bucks
tools, and stuff-
BFH
2x4
vise
rivets, washers, rivet gun
Drill and misc correct drill bits
tin snips
phillips screw driver
open end wrench
and a whole CRAP load of paitents and good thinking
Once i get the motor in the car i will make the nesscacary cuts if needed. i will also be addeding some alumilite to the area were the front jack point is so that i can still use it.
the next project will be making air ducts for the brakes, i still need to order the ducts nd tubbing and come up with a way to get the air to the rotor, hopefully someing good will come up.
Thread Starter
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From: cali
Re: progress on the project (black cx)
alright well i have been REALLY REALLY laggin on getting this thing going after i got the motor out of the machine shop i lost steem becuase i got the bill and it was a theoretical kick in the *****. but im over it and happy i did it this way.
The motor was completly rebuilt, bottom end blue printed and balanced, new OEM rods and pistons, .25 over, slightly shaved head to bumb up the compression the legal amount, new valves, new springs, new guides, HC legal port-N-polish, ect.
The tranny is a 93 civic si tranny with the SRR 4.7 FD, act cluch and clutch master flywheel. The tranny was really nasty looking so i decided to paint it. I went to kragen and found some aluminum high temp panit figure it would work great, got the first coat on the tranny and was amazed that it was BLING BLINGNNN.
The vlave cover had the orginall paint striped off and had a weak polish job on it, well my tranny was too much bling for me so i picked up some more high temp paint that i thought would match the color of the car, called "old ford blue" and it does a decent job of matching.
still need some small parts for the motor does any one happen to have a spare fly wheel cover thing? the part that covers up the bottom of the fly wheel near were the oil pan is?? if so let me know.
here are some shots of the motor
you can see the blingin tranny its BLINDING
I also made a custom gauge pode kinda gettho lookin but the gagues will be easy as heck to read
The motor was completly rebuilt, bottom end blue printed and balanced, new OEM rods and pistons, .25 over, slightly shaved head to bumb up the compression the legal amount, new valves, new springs, new guides, HC legal port-N-polish, ect.
The tranny is a 93 civic si tranny with the SRR 4.7 FD, act cluch and clutch master flywheel. The tranny was really nasty looking so i decided to paint it. I went to kragen and found some aluminum high temp panit figure it would work great, got the first coat on the tranny and was amazed that it was BLING BLINGNNN.
The vlave cover had the orginall paint striped off and had a weak polish job on it, well my tranny was too much bling for me so i picked up some more high temp paint that i thought would match the color of the car, called "old ford blue" and it does a decent job of matching.
still need some small parts for the motor does any one happen to have a spare fly wheel cover thing? the part that covers up the bottom of the fly wheel near were the oil pan is?? if so let me know.
here are some shots of the motor
you can see the blingin tranny its BLINDING
I also made a custom gauge pode kinda gettho lookin but the gagues will be easy as heck to read
