buffing
i heard that detailing shops do this. what exactly is the process? what do i need to do it at home by myself?
is it worth it to do it myself or should i just open the yellow pages?
is it worth it to do it myself or should i just open the yellow pages?
you rub a compound made of crystals or something really fine and it heats up the paint and the surface scratches are gone. Go to a shop to have them do it, ecspecially if you dont even know what it involves. Does wonders though.
well i kinda knew before hand what happens in this process but i wasnt completely sure.
i knew that there is a high speed buffer involved but the things i dont kno here are whats on the pad? what kinda pad? what speed? what kinda buffer?
then there's the compounding afterwards i think im not sure this is why i made the thread, is there compounding afterwards? if so what kind of compound?
i knew that there is a high speed buffer involved but the things i dont kno here are whats on the pad? what kinda pad? what speed? what kinda buffer?
then there's the compounding afterwards i think im not sure this is why i made the thread, is there compounding afterwards? if so what kind of compound?
high speed buffing is a varying step process, depending on what the paint needs.
first - prep the car (remove any tar, bugs, etc.) this also involves using a type of chemical to remove any extra grit, or wax, etc (my shop uses a meguiars product called c-solv)
second - give the car a good, very thorough wash.
third - dry it off, air out the creaveses (Sp?) and prep the car for buffing
--car prep - basically cover up any trim near the windshield and windshield wipers, this isnt something that is required, but if the chemical splatters, it hits the towel, not the car =p
fourth - use a quik detailer spray, or anything equvilant with a good claybar (i like synthetic claybar) and clay the entire car.
After these steps it varies, if the car is old, oxidized extemely, and needs extensive reconditioning.
With extensive reconditioning, you would start with a cutter compound, and more than likely wool pad. You have to be extremely careful with the wool pad and cuitter compounds, because if you dont watch your ****, you can really mess stuff up.
--Note: Lower rpms significantly on side mirriors, around moldings, and of side moldings because paint is alot lighter in these areas.
Next would be a polish, with a lighter grade pad (which would be decided upoin looking at the car).
--Note:between cutting, polishing, etc, make sure to wipe off extra residew with a microfiber towel.
Then you want to do the wax as the last step. Make sure not to use too much wax, and only enough to see a slight haze, remember a little wax is the same as globs of it.
Afterwards, let the wax sit, and "dry". During this time is probably when you would want to do the tireshine, clean the exterior windows, or any other touchups, mostly because you dont wanan spray window clearner, tireshine, etc over the car especially after you've taken the wax off.
Well anyway I've been detailing since i was 16 for a fullservice shop (im 20 now), so have some time with this, and some knowdlege of diff technique.
This should give you a decent idea of what is involved if you were to do it yourself, or take it to a respectable shop, excuse me if i left out details
first - prep the car (remove any tar, bugs, etc.) this also involves using a type of chemical to remove any extra grit, or wax, etc (my shop uses a meguiars product called c-solv)
second - give the car a good, very thorough wash.
third - dry it off, air out the creaveses (Sp?) and prep the car for buffing
--car prep - basically cover up any trim near the windshield and windshield wipers, this isnt something that is required, but if the chemical splatters, it hits the towel, not the car =p
fourth - use a quik detailer spray, or anything equvilant with a good claybar (i like synthetic claybar) and clay the entire car.
After these steps it varies, if the car is old, oxidized extemely, and needs extensive reconditioning.
With extensive reconditioning, you would start with a cutter compound, and more than likely wool pad. You have to be extremely careful with the wool pad and cuitter compounds, because if you dont watch your ****, you can really mess stuff up.
--Note: Lower rpms significantly on side mirriors, around moldings, and of side moldings because paint is alot lighter in these areas.
Next would be a polish, with a lighter grade pad (which would be decided upoin looking at the car).
--Note:between cutting, polishing, etc, make sure to wipe off extra residew with a microfiber towel.
Then you want to do the wax as the last step. Make sure not to use too much wax, and only enough to see a slight haze, remember a little wax is the same as globs of it.
Afterwards, let the wax sit, and "dry". During this time is probably when you would want to do the tireshine, clean the exterior windows, or any other touchups, mostly because you dont wanan spray window clearner, tireshine, etc over the car especially after you've taken the wax off.
Well anyway I've been detailing since i was 16 for a fullservice shop (im 20 now), so have some time with this, and some knowdlege of diff technique.
This should give you a decent idea of what is involved if you were to do it yourself, or take it to a respectable shop, excuse me if i left out details
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any detail shop would charge roughly 100 for just the outside, give or take some cash depending on where you go.
Body shops usually do heavier stuff like wet sanding that most detail shops are too afraid to even attempt. Paying someone to wetsand, and buff a car can get pretty damn expensive though
Body shops usually do heavier stuff like wet sanding that most detail shops are too afraid to even attempt. Paying someone to wetsand, and buff a car can get pretty damn expensive though
our shops 175 for an exterior which includes wash, make the wheels spotless, pressure wash wheel wells, buff, polish, 2 coats of carnouva (sp?) wax, clean outside windows, clean all chrome, use this grease type liquid to make all the plastic peices glossy. But we dont mask anything up or put towels anywhere. When the compound gets into the cracks, we use a horse-hair brush and get it out. Also around the emblems and stuff too. IMO though, i think 175 is too much for a exterior detail. I guess we just have ballas up here in Kirkland
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AlphaKennyWun
Paint and Body
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Jul 13, 2008 03:46 PM




