Persistent MISFIRE After Burnt Valve Repair. ~2013 Accord 2.4l K24W1~
I spoke directly with the owner said he won’t charge me more than $90 to tell me what’s wrong with it.
If you are so sure that it’s the MAF sensor, what do you suggest I do to confirm that. I feel like a hamster in a wheel with this car to tell you the truth. At this point I need to know for sure what the problem is instead of trying to diy it.
Let me know what you recommend me to do last minute before taking it to the shop
ps(I can’t get a hold of a factory service manual)
If you are so sure that it’s the MAF sensor, what do you suggest I do to confirm that. I feel like a hamster in a wheel with this car to tell you the truth. At this point I need to know for sure what the problem is instead of trying to diy it.
Let me know what you recommend me to do last minute before taking it to the shop
ps(I can’t get a hold of a factory service manual)
Yeah I’ll see what I can.
what do yall say the odds are of it being a maf sensor.
what if I just buy a cheap one one eBay and roll the dice on that fixing my issue?
what do yall say the odds are of it being a maf sensor.
what if I just buy a cheap one one eBay and roll the dice on that fixing my issue?
I don't know if this may help any of you guys draw a conclusion to what is the problem. My scan tool has a function that allows me to view live data while the engine is running, here a list of data points I figured might be helpful. I can't interpret much of this stuff. Hopefully you guys can read this and have an idea of what may be the primary issue.
I’m just trying to figure out the right next step instead of continuing to throw parts at it.
Temperature Data (Warm Idle ~800 RPM)
- IAT (Start): 28°C
- IAT Sensor (Current): 27°C
- IAT Voltage: 2.74 V
- ECT (Start): 64°C
- ECT Sensor 1: 71°C (1.00 V)
- ECT Sensor 2: 20°C (3.12 V)
- Catalyst Temp: 478.8°C
- Estimated Battery Temp: 18°C
Fuel System
- Direct Injection Fuel Pressure: 3870–4000 kPa
- Fuel Pressure Sensor Voltage: 1.15 V
- Injector Pulse Width: 1.44 ms
- AF Lambda Commanded: 1.01
- AF Lambda Actual: 0.90
- AF FB (STFT): 0.69
- AF FB AVE (LTFT): 0.77
- Air Fuel Ratio: 13.02–14.52
- Fuel Consumption (Idle/Stop Status): 8439 cc
- Fuel Consumption (City): 4533 cc
- Fuel Level: 7.84–8.10%
Airflow / Intake Data
- MAF Voltage: 1.45 V
- MAF Flow: 5.40 g/s
- MAP: 38.00 kPa
- MAP (Hi Res): 301.40 mmHg
- MAP Voltage: 1.18 V
- Barometric Pressure: 88.00 kPa
- Baro Voltage: 2.57 V
- FTP Sensor: -0.13 kPa
- FTP Sensor (Fine): 16264.50 Pa
Oxygen / A/F Sensors
- AF Sensor Signal (+): 2.20
- AF Sensor Signal (−): 1.82
- AF Sensor Current: 0.26 mA
- AF Sensor Impedance: 38 ohm
- HO2S S1 Heater: ON
- HO2S Heater Duty: 87%
- HO2S S2 Voltage: 0.92 V
- HO2S S2 Output Voltage: 2.47 V
- HO2S S2 Heater Current: 0.89 A
- HO2S S2 Heater: ON
Misfire / Crank / Cam Data
- Misfire Driving Cycle: 1.00
- CKP Noise: 0
- CKP No Pulse: 0
- CMP A Noise: 60
- CMP A No Pulse: 50
- CMP B Noise: 0
- CMP B No Pulse: 5
- CKP Pulser F/B Learn: Not Completed
- Idle Learn: Not Completed
Electrical System
- Alternator Circuit: 12.5
- Alternator L Signal: Low
- Estimated Battery Resistance: 9.30 mΩ
- ELD (Electrical Load): 16.50 A
Throttle / Drive-by-Wire
- Throttle Valve: 3.90°
- Target Throttle: 3.91°
- Idle Target Throttle: 3.94°
- TP Sensor A: 0.74 V
- TP Sensor B: 1.59 V
- APP Sensor A: 0.96 V
- APP Sensor B: 0.47 V
- DBW Stuck Ratio: 28.24%
- Engine Speed: 800 RPM
Other Data
- Spark Advance: 8–14.5°
- Knock Retard: 0.00
- Knock Sensor Drag: 2.51 V
- Knock Control: 1.50
- VTEC Pressure Switch: ON
- VTEC Solenoid: OFF
- Slip Ratio (Clutch/Start): 96–100%
- A/F Imbalance Measurement: 0.00
I’m just trying to figure out the right next step instead of continuing to throw parts at it.
I reviewed your live data.
- The "P0102 - MAF Circuit Low" Code: This is the key. The ECU is explicitly telling you it sees a problem with the MAF signal.
- The MAF Voltage (1.45V): At a warm idle (800 RPM), a healthy MAF sensor on a K24W1 should read around 1.0V to 1.2V. Your reading of 1.45V is too high for a normal idle. However, the more important detail is the calculated flow.
- The MAF Flow (5.40 g/s): A 2.4L engine at warm idle should pull in roughly 2.5 to 3.5 grams/second of air. Your reading of 5.40 g/s is almost double what it should be. The sensor is telling the ECU that twice as much air is entering the engine as there actually is.
- The Rich Condition (P0172): This is the direct result of the bad MAF data.
replace the MAF - i forgot to mention. Shut off the car. Unplug the MAF. Start the car back up? If it runs significantly better, the problem is MAF. When MAF is unplugged, ECU will use calculated value of MAP and engine RPM.
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