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Hi All. First time posting here so apologies if I'm doing this the wrong way....
I have a 2013 Honda Accord Hybrid for the last year and I'm very happy with it. Last week, the power steering failed on it. I've checked the error codes and see DTC 34-05 Power Relay stuck. The solution is to change the EPS control unit. I'm based in Ireland and the car is a Japanese import. I have read the part number from the unit and can source it from Japan. My problem is that I am trying to remove the EPS control unit myself. It's under the steering wheel. I have some access to some manuals and they tell me to remove a brake pedal support member ( done ) , remove EPS control unit connections ( done ) , remove locking bolts ( done ) and then slide out the control unit ( not done ). It is not moving no matter how hard I pull. I've felt around the box and can't feel anything that would hold it in place. I've looked online and found a repair manual for 2013-2016 honda accord but it is for hydraulic power steering and not EPS. Maybe there is some extra step that I need to do but the limited info I have does not cover it? Does anyone have any experience of replacing the EPS control unit?
This is the info I am using. I have removed the nuts marked in red. I was not sure what the item marked in blue is but it does not seem to indicate that it needs to be removed. Is this setup similar to the 2014 Hybrid in the USA?
Thanks. I did not notice that 3rd nut when I was working on it.
Can I access it by lying on my back under the steering wheel and working from underneath or do I need to start taking out dashboards or trims and come at it from above?
The third nut just needs to be loosen (not necessarily removed) to be able to slide the unit out. It makes re-installing a lot easier too if the third nut is not removed; but, only loosen.
See this link so you can compare to your car for the location of the third nut on the bracket. Using a wrench may be able to reach the third nut to loosen it.
Finally got it out. They do not make it easy! The 3rd nut is at the very back and up in the top corner in the steering bay. I had to get access to and move the fuse box underneath the steering wheel just to see the nut and then use the longest socket extender I had to get access to it. Now to see if I can repair it ( hopefully just a stuck relay ) or will need to replace it.
I got the unit opened so sharing the info here in case it helps someone else.
When the box is opened there are 2 PCBs and connectors exposed. The PCBs are soldered together and are hard to desolder to split apart. There is a local company which reworks electronic equipment and manufactures PCB so I got onto them. They have the correct equipment and , very kindly , did me a favour and separated the PCBs. This allowed me to get both relay numbers. I have ordered replacements - 26 Euro from Ali Express - and they are due in 2 weeks. I plan to replace both. I'm not sure which one is broken but the effort involved in replacing just one , reassembling , testing and then having to disassemble and change the other is too much. It's much simpler just to replace both. I have attached pictures showing the unit and the relays. I have also attached a circuit diagram for the EPS unit. The power relay is top left. This is a single relay. You'll also see 2 fail safe relays. These are in a dual-relay package.
Relays cost 26Euro. No other cost - apart from the time to get the EPS control unit out. Car has had the problem for the last 3 weeks. Still driveable but no power steering so it's a workout to steer.
Relays cost 26Euro. No other cost - apart from the time to get the EPS control unit out. Car has had the problem for the last 3 weeks. Still driveable but no power steering so it's a workout to steer.
The company that separated the PCBs didn't charge you anything? Thats cool!
Unfortunately others may not be so lucky. And 3 weeks is a long time to be with out a vehicle.(Not every one has the arm strength for manual steering)
These are things for readers to consider vs buying new....
Just to close this out...I replaced the relays , reassembled the unit , installed it back into the car and the EPS is now working.
In summary , a steep learning curve for getting it out of the car but well worth it.
Based on original quotations , I would have been looking at close to 1500Euro. Final cost was a bit of time to figure things out and then 26Euro for the relays.