I have a 1997 Accord.I replaced the struts in the front because of a clicking sound that I have. After replacing struts,it is still there,worse when it is cold outside. Sounds like the struts,but they are new(aftermarket McPhearson) Also,I have this vibration/buzzing sound that is coming from the front of the motor. Almost like from the head itself. Had the vaves adjusted at the dealer a week ago,but the sound is annoying. Colud it be the motor mounts are bad? It starts to vibrate/make noise just at 2000-2100 rpm if i'M driving or in park. Any help would be appreciated.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 03 cobra &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I have a 1997 Accord. I have this vibration/buzzing sound that is coming from the front of the motor. Almost like from the head itself. Had the vaves adjusted at the dealer a week ago,but the sound is annoying. Colud it be the motor mounts are bad? It starts to vibrate/make noise just at 2000-2100 rpm if i'M driving or in park. Any help would be appreciated.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Honda addressed this issue back in May of 1996 in bulletin #94-041

It stated the following:

GENERAL INFORMATION
Investigation has discovered two similar, but distinct, exhaust system noises: a buzz at 1,800 rpm, and a groan or drone at 2,000 – 2,400 rpm.

1,800 rpm buzz – This noise – a sound like a vibrating sheet metal piece – is most common in cars with manual transmissions (although it can
also occur in cars with automatic transmissions). It can be reproduced most reliably by upshifting from first to second gear at a low speed (so the engine speed is approximately 1,200 rpm) and applying heavy throttle. The noise can be heard as
the engine passes through the 1,800 – 2,000 rpm range. It cannot be reproduced by holding the engine at 1,800 rpm in neutral or any other gear. Use the parts and procedures in this service bulletin to repair this problem.

2,000 rpm groan – This noise is most common in cars with automatic transmissions. It can be reproduced by driving the car in D3 or D4 in the 2,000 – 2,400 rpm range with a steady throttle. It is most noticeable when driving up a slight grade or in stop-and-go traffic. More sensitive owners may also feel a slight vibration in the steering wheel, accelerator pedal, or floorpan.

The parts and procedures in this service bulletin will have very little effect on this noise. Any noises in the 1,800 – 2,400 rpm range that remain after installation of this kit should be considered characteristic of the vehicle.

Other possible causes – Bent or misaligned components in the exhaust system can cause noises at various engine speeds. Diagnose this by examining the rubber exhaust system hangers. A problem is indicated by one or more of them being twisted. Correct this by loosening all the bolts in the exhaust system so the system can seek its own “neutral point.” Then retighten the bolts.

CORRECTIVE ACTION
Replace the gaskets (see PARTS INFORMATION) at both ends of the mid-pipe. Use new mounting hardware.

1. Remove the four bolts mounting the mid-pipe to the catalytic converter and exhaust pipe A.

<FONT COLOR="red">NOTE: Some models have the heated oxygen sensor mounted in the mid-pipe. Do not damage it while doing this repair.</FONT>



2. Remove and discard the old gaskets.
3. Install the new gaskets.
4. Reinstall the mid-pipe to the catalytic converter and exhaust pipe A with the new bolts, nuts, and springs from the kit. Torque all four nuts to 22 NVm (16 lb-ft).
5. Examine the exhaust pipe hangers; make sure they are sitting vertically.



PARTS INFORMATION
Exhaust mid-pipe fastener kit:
P/N 18010-SV4-305
(Kit contains two gaskets, four flange bolts, four springs, and four self-locking nuts.)

Hope this answers your question ...