Stalling at a stop
So I posted a thread about this before but the answers i got didn't help me at all. When I come to a stop in neutral the car dies and wont turn back on until maybe the 3rd try and its on at least the 10th crank.
I took out the distributer because i thought i may have gotten water in it when i pressured washed my engine bay with simple green. It was bone dry. I left it inside a few days just in case there was some moisture that away it could dry.
I put it back on today and i still have the problem.
Another side effect I'm having is when i decelerate in gear and goto give it gas again, nothing happens and it dies.
Anyone got any suggestions?
Btw i have a h22 powered cb7
I took out the distributer because i thought i may have gotten water in it when i pressured washed my engine bay with simple green. It was bone dry. I left it inside a few days just in case there was some moisture that away it could dry.
I put it back on today and i still have the problem.
Another side effect I'm having is when i decelerate in gear and goto give it gas again, nothing happens and it dies.
Anyone got any suggestions?
Btw i have a h22 powered cb7
Bumping for a friend, Since hes at work.
We have been troubleshooting it for about 6 days now and still nothing I was wondering if maybe it might be the charging system and or vacuum leak, but he hasnt found any.I havent had a chance to check the charging system yet but i plan to tomorrow since he doesnt have a voltmeter. Help us out here guys, Thanks for your time.
Modified by H23VTECBB1 at 6:00 PM 5/21/2008
We have been troubleshooting it for about 6 days now and still nothing I was wondering if maybe it might be the charging system and or vacuum leak, but he hasnt found any.I havent had a chance to check the charging system yet but i plan to tomorrow since he doesnt have a voltmeter. Help us out here guys, Thanks for your time.
Modified by H23VTECBB1 at 6:00 PM 5/21/2008
How does your car idle cold and how does it idle after it's warmed up?
It could very well be your fuel pressure regulator.
Are you using the stock H22 or an aftermarket regulator?
It could very well be your fuel pressure regulator.
Are you using the stock H22 or an aftermarket regulator?
Trending Topics
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">How does your car idle cold and how does it idle after it's warmed up?
It could very well be your fuel pressure regulator.
Are you using the stock H22 or an aftermarket regulator?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The car idles high, around 2k RPMs. After it warms up it idles at 800 but bounces to 1000.
Its the stock h22 FPR.
It could very well be your fuel pressure regulator.
Are you using the stock H22 or an aftermarket regulator?</TD></TR></TABLE>
The car idles high, around 2k RPMs. After it warms up it idles at 800 but bounces to 1000.
Its the stock h22 FPR.
Are you using an altered ECU or are you running a stock H ECU?
With the problems that you are explaining a faulty fuel pressure regulator will cause them. Do you have access to a fuel pressure gauge so that you can check the FPR?
With the problems that you are explaining a faulty fuel pressure regulator will cause them. Do you have access to a fuel pressure gauge so that you can check the FPR?
Update
Its not the FPR.
We are thinking its water in the gas tank from condensation maybe?
Also the CEL is now on. And my seatbelt light wont turn off and stop beeping!
Its not the FPR.
We are thinking its water in the gas tank from condensation maybe?
Also the CEL is now on. And my seatbelt light wont turn off and stop beeping!
With a code at least now you should be able to use the service check connector short method to retrieve the TDCode. Or get a code reader and retrieve the code. Then you can get a better read on what is wrong.
If shorting the 2 pin SCS connector under the glove box doesn't work you can ground the following ECU pins.
OBD2 = ground C7 to A10
OBD1 = ground D4 to A23
Once you retrieve the code post it up and let us know how you made out.
If shorting the 2 pin SCS connector under the glove box doesn't work you can ground the following ECU pins.
OBD2 = ground C7 to A10
OBD1 = ground D4 to A23
Once you retrieve the code post it up and let us know how you made out.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by GhostAccord »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">With a code at least now you should be able to use the service check connector short method to retrieve the TDCode. Or get a code reader and retrieve the code. Then you can get a better read on what is wrong.
If shorting the 2 pin SCS connector under the glove box doesn't work you can ground the following ECU pins.
OBD2 = ground C7 to A10
OBD1 = ground D4 to A23
Once you retrieve the code post it up and let us know how you made out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks bro, appreciate it.
I'll keep you updated
Modified by JunCB7 at 8:54 PM 5/24/2008
If shorting the 2 pin SCS connector under the glove box doesn't work you can ground the following ECU pins.
OBD2 = ground C7 to A10
OBD1 = ground D4 to A23
Once you retrieve the code post it up and let us know how you made out.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thanks bro, appreciate it.
I'll keep you updated
Modified by JunCB7 at 8:54 PM 5/24/2008
Update.
Ran the codes.
Shes shooting a 14 and 15.
Took off the IACV and there was black **** all in it and the hoses connecting to it were split.
I checked over the ignition and everything seems fine.
Any tips?
Ran the codes.
Shes shooting a 14 and 15.
Took off the IACV and there was black **** all in it and the hoses connecting to it were split.
I checked over the ignition and everything seems fine.
Any tips?
Went to take apart the IACV and the [freak]ing screws stripped.
Everything on this damn car is stripping out. I'm about to scrap this thing.
Everything on this damn car is stripping out. I'm about to scrap this thing.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




