i've got a 90 honda accord with a h22 swap...other day pulled into taco bell parking lot and car died...wouldnt start for nothing...once i got home i tryed see'ing what my CEL was for and it wouldnt flash it stayed solid..So it could be my ecu which its not cause i bought a bran new one and it did nothing..So could it possible be my main relay??

 

bump...anyone?

 

If you know it's not your ECU for sure then it's time to start checking the power and ground wires going to and from the ECU. If you have a pin out for your particular ECU and a multimeter your well on your way to finding a bad ground or short. I'm pretty sure there are only 2 power and 2 ground pins to check. This is a good place to start if your sure it's not the ECU and you have a solid CEL.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cB7KiD &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i've got a 90 honda accord with a h22 swap...other day pulled into taco bell parking lot and car died...wouldnt start for nothing...once i got home i tryed see'ing what my CEL was for and it wouldnt flash it stayed solid..So it could be my ecu which its not cause i bought a bran new one and it did nothing..So could it possible be my main relay??</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm pretty sure it has to be the ECU, as a solid CEL indicates an ECU malfunction. As Ghost mentioned, there could be a wiring gremlin

 

Ok here are a few other thing to check when you have a solid CEL.

• Check the ECU 15A fuse under the hood. Replace if bad

• Check the No.2 Fuel Pump 15A fuse under the dash. Replace if bad

• If both fuses are good try Turning the ignition switch on (engine not running)
Then disconnect the connector of each of the following sensors one at a time checking to see if the CEL goes off.
- MAP
- TPS
- EGR valve lift sensor

• if the CEL light goes out when you disconnect one of the sensors replace that sensor.

• If the CEL remains on leave the sensors disconnected and turn off the ignition. Then test for continuity between body ground and D19 & D20 pins

• Is there continuity, if there is. repair the short to body ground wire between ECU (D19) and MAP or ECM (D20) and TPS

• If there is no continuity reconnect all of your sensors and turn your ignition on (engine not running)

• Measure voltage between body ground and teh following pins individually A26, B2

• Is there less than 1.0v
- if no rapair open in wire between ECM (A26, B2 pins) and Grd101
- if yes try a new ECU.

 

That looks like really good info to have. Where did you find that from?

 

I had to use this test procedure once before when I was troubleshooting an ECU that I had chipped. I got this particular flow chart out of my Honda Motor Co. CD7-9 shop manual.