I have a 1990 cb7 with a h22 swap. The swap has about 70k miles on it. My problem is my car wont start, it turns and wants to fire but wont. I just recently put on a new alternator, battery, fuel filter and a used MAP sensor from the junk yard. It had been sitting for a while but I drained the gas tank and put in fresh fuel. My VTEC selinoid wire isnt connected right now (need a soudering gun), but Ive had it start with out it before. There are also new spark plugs and the rotor button is new too. Im thinking maybe the fuel pump isnt priming the fuel system. I opened up the fuel rail while i had the ignition on and didnt see it getting primed.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
-John

 

replaced MAP huh, definitely check the wires on that, i did a swap and had the MAP wires in the wrong order, made my car start right up then die right away. good luck.

 

Check your grounds first and make sure your battery cables are both tight.

 

MAP wires are correct and the battery cables are clean and on tight. I'm gonna check my main relay tomorrow, maybe it isn't talking to the fuel pump and not priming the system. I dont have a soudering gun so i may have to replace it if its bad.

 

Ok, so today I got a souder gun from my girlfriends dad and soudered my vtec wire back together. No CEL.

Now It wouldnt fire up but would crank so I got my girlfriend to try to crank it while I sprayed starter fluid into the throttle body. Fired right up. It Idled at about 1500 rpms till it warmed up and stayed steady at 1000 rpms when warm. This rules out the main relay and fuel pump. I tried giving it gas and it reved strong and smooth throughout the rpm range for the first couple attempts. Then slowly with each attempt the engine would start to sputter and hesitate. The last attempt to give it some throttle it took a few seconds for it to do any thing then jumped upto to about 2000 rpms and just sputtered out. Now it wont start. I pulled the plugs, they are still fresh and new. Wires are fine. New rotor button, fuel filter, alternator and battery. Both battery cables were on tight. No vacuum leaks.

What the hell is going on?

 

I would still check your fuel pressure just to make sure

 

try taking off the fuel cap and then try to start it if that does not help then try to leave the key on then take out the ecu fuse and then put it back in and listen for the fuel rail to prime.

 

Ok, Ill try the fuse thing tomorrow. And is there a tool I can use to check my fuel pressure?

 

Hey update, I pulled the fuse like you said and tried again, no result. I dont have a fuel pressure gauge. Any other ideas? Bad gas maybe? There is no CEL and it has been sitting for a bit.

EDIT: I don't think the fuel pressure would be the case considering it idles fine when cold until it gets hot. Only when the engine is warm it starts to throw a fit. I don't have tags on her right now so i cant get gas, but I drained the gas tank about 3 weeks ago and added 3 gallons of fresh 93 octane fuel. So I don't know if it would be bad gas here either. Its gotta be something..

 

did you try checking the distrubitor cap, rotor, ignition coil, or ignigter. I had the same problem with my honda accord and I later found out it was a problem with my ignition coil and i had a wire that was burnt out on the rotor it was the blue wire could do a quick fix with a soldering gun , but i just replaced the rotor ignition coil and it worked out fine for me.

 

map and tps are the exact same type connectors, and they are close to each other...did you swap these connectors? make sure the wires going to map are the right colors and ones going to tps are right colors, sound to me like you gotem switched

 

^^x2 i had the same problem

 

The Cap is new, along with the rotor. I had troubles getting my old rotor button off and had to break it and beat it off with a screw driver and hammer. I had to beat the new one on with a rubber mallet. It cracked but is still together and still hits the little pieces of metal on the cap. Idk if the ignition coil is bad or not, It DOES start just until it gets warm then it begins to bog and die.

I checked the connectors and everything is a match. And Im pretty sure the CEL would come on if the MAP or TPS wasnt properly plugged in.

 

Could it be a faulty Fuel Pressure Regulator? Would that throw a code?

 

This happend to me before on a swap I did. It turned out I didn't ground the main ground that grounds the ECU at some point so the fuel pump works and also ignition. Pretty much the ECU wasn't grounded. Find a wiring schematic and make sure your grounds are grounded where they should be and wires wired up properly for the swap.

 

Let me give you guys a better history on the car. I bought the car with the swap already done about a year ago. It ran great and fast until my friend talked me into cleaning the engine bay out with degreaser and hose. We covered everything important but the day after is when i started having problems. The problems started with loss of throttle response. I would hit the gas and nothing would happen for a couple of seconds and then the power would be there until i let off the gas, then the rpms would drop to the low 100s. It would stumple and die and wouldnt start back up for atleast 15 mins. So i unplugged everything to let dry. That was about 4 - 5 months ago. Since then it had been running and running alright but would have this problem Ive been explaining now. It sat for most of the year due to job problems. It would go months without seeing a startup. Either because it wouldnt start or I didnt have gas in it.

So Im sure the ECU ground is fine.

All the new parts Ive listed before have been installed recently.

 

This isn't looking good for me either. I have same problem w/ my 92 accord, can't find answers anywhere. As I try to start the car the D4 light on dash blinks and no start, tries but no. Have changed ignition switch, distributor cap and rotor bug, plugs, wires....? now working on disconnecting tcu for cleaning and reinstallation. we'll see tomorrow when finish up. please throw advice/suggestions!

 

You should get the code for the D4 blinking. Not all transmission codes are related to the transmission or TCU. Normally, the TCU will may put you in limp mode or something else; but, should not give you a no start problem. It may be your ignition coil or something else. There is a greater chance it may be the ignition coil, as transmission trouble codes (D4) include when there is a problem with the ignition coil, which would also cause starting problems. But, like I said, get the code first. See this link:

http://techauto.awardspace.com/transmission.html

 

I think it might just be bad gas. I'm gonna try to put in a good bit of fresh fuel and see how she runs. Once I get her started I'm gonna pull injector plugs to see if any of them change the rpms significantly. I'm thinking its something fuel related because when i spray starter fluid in the throttle body; it will fire up but with no fuel, it wont stay running. Ill let you all know.

Feel free to leave me suggestions please.

 

Alright, I got a fresh tank of gas and was driving the car. The car runs ok, but not the way i want it. It still hesitates through the RPM range. And when i come to a stop, while I'm holding the brake pedal, the RPMs drop and stumble but when i let off it idles smooth. Whats going on?

 

Hey guys, Its been a while since Ive had my problem but I fixed it. Issue was timing. The dizzy was twisted the whole way forward. I twisted to full advance and it runs perfect. Now to put in the new clutch.