is what i said after i finished replacing the oil pan gasket and tried so hard to get it back on i put in the 3 bolts in the front and the 2 toward the rear wont line up, put the 2 toward the rear in and 3 toward the front wont line up so its not currently on my car wtvr it halls rump

 

that might be important

 

Do you mean the bolts won't line up or the actual cross member.

 

yes thats what he means. and for the op that crossmember is important. that supports all the weight of the car. eventually your going to make the front clip sag bad and its going to take expensive body work to get it right again. and as a experienced mechanic yes the bolts are hard to line up its better if you have jackstands to put the car up in the air from jacking points and use the jack to elevate the front of the clip makes them line up so much easier

 

this thread is getting hella helpful thanks man. so tell me if im getting this right. lift up "THE BLACK BOOT" its what i call my cb. put jack stands on the lift points and are to my knowledge. the 4 inch long metal parts right behind the wheels. then use the floor jack again to keep lifting the nose of the BLACK BOOT and it will "pull" the front up or away and the holes will line up? would you put the 2 rear bolts in first? then wait for the 3 front to line up

 

What about people running traction bars that delete the crossmember? I'm confused as to how this supports all the weight of the car.

 

yes correct. and if you have a friend that could help you jack the front end while your under lining up the bolts. it doesnt really matter which bolts you put in first. just as long as you got one in its all good. just work with the jack and youll get it

 

it doesnt support ALL of the weight. but it will eventually sag the front clip of the car

 

what year is your car?

 

if im correct your talking about part 15 right?

 

this thread can get off topic real fast. please nobody reply to h22a_black's post. my car is a 90 2 door "less ****** lower ET scores" lol i made that up my self. the part i am talking about. in the image provided. thank you by the way is number 15.

also when i get to 3k it jumps to 4k on the tac. from 4k on it reads normal. i know my F22A4 doesnt have V-shech and when it does this no increase in rpms are heard. my non certified ASE master technician self tells me theres something happening with the idle air speed censor. am i right?

 

it's not off-topic, he's responding to some misinformation related to your original post, and it's in the best interest of all who read this (especially those who don't know any better) that it be corrected.

this crossmember brace does not support the weight of the car- the wheel/hub/LCA/spring do. it is, however important in handling components of suspension loading and keeping the feel of the front end solid by reducing flex.

the IACV should have nothing to do with your tach jumping when the car isn't idling. you say it doesn't sound like the engine is doing what the tach "says" it is? I would say there is a problem with the tach or the sensor it gets signal from. maybe you could explain your reasoning that lead to the "idle air speed censor" (assuming you mean Idle Air Control Valve) being the culprit. it could be helpful.

 

How is that off topic? You posted a thread about the engine crossmember, my post was directly related to that...

If it supports so much I still don't see how the traction bar setups factor in (for the op, traction bar setups delete the crossmember altogether, staying on topic)

As far as your rpm issue speed sensors seem to be common on cbs, mine went as well. If not the speed sensor its usually the tach itself.

 

nothing against you personally i just felt that your post gave the thread potential to go off topic before my post was settled. that's how i felt sorry. what do you mean "traction bar" do you mean sway bar? my car has sway bars and the cross member. my car came with this option.

 

^lolol

read this

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...nl4pjPmXoCLy-g

 

hey mach, everyone's been there where we almost said "hell with it **** this car im driving it into a lake". Just stick with it man.

Just don't strip the bolts or holes. That's the overall goal when working on a car. lol

 

get some tapered pin punches, install the back bolts loosely, jam a tapered pin punch through the hole in the cross member and up into the threaded hole pull it into alignment while you put in a front bolt loosely to hold it

 

It does not support weight. It ties the front and rear beams together to reduce flex. Collectively the three are called the sub frame.

 

and what causes it to flex? weight

 

primarily acceleration and braking forces, some cornering or lateral forces. again, the weight is handled by the springs as it's transferred from the wheel & hub, through the LCA.

 

the bolts should line right up unless the front and rear subframes are no longer in alignment,I've never had an issue putting one back in in any Honda I've owned, I'm not sure on the later ones,but it probably has a snubber on it for the transmission also, I posted a solution but instead of coming up with ideas it's an arguement over what the crossmember does

 

Not so much...
This guy knows.

 

how do i close this thread

 

did you find a way to fix it and get it back in? try the tapered punch,it really will help line the bolt holes back up. it gives you enough leverage to pull the holes in alignment

 

i used the first method suggested with the floor jack