I have searched through the forums, and havent seem to find anything really. The car starts and drives fine, but after 10-15 minutes of driving, the RPM's start to bounce around. While cruising at 50-55, roughly 2200 rpm's they start to bounce, almost like a miss. But, no CEL's have come up.

Prior to this happened, i did two things, I repaired the AC(I jumped out the compressor clutch, by going accross the relay). And i removed and replaced some light bulbs in the gauge cluster(Also repalced the fuel gauge). So, everything associated with removing the gauge cluster.

I would assume if it was a miss, a code would show. Also, I cleaned out EGR passages a few months ago.

I have some ideas about where to start, just looking for another "set of eyes" hopefully point out somethign I hadnt thought of. Thanks!

 

Oh yeah, the other day. I drove it, and it was fine. It sat for a couple of hours, then when i came back out, it started fine, but about a secind later it started bucking and farting around. I gave it a little gas, and it settled, then started bucking again. Finally stalled. Started back up, and it was bucking, so i tried to drive. It stalled again. Then started back up, it ran good. Drove about a mile, then it started bucking again.

The fuel level was really low at this point, so I stumbled into a gas station, and put in some gas. It ran better, all teh way home. Probably about 8 miles. Sat for a couple hours. I tried to start again. This time, it started and ran just fine. But the oil pressure light was flashing(This is new). I turned off right away. I was 99% sure it wasnt for real, so I removed negative battery terminal, reset computer, then restarted. Ran fine for about 15 minutes. This was sunday night.

Tried again yesterday evening, just started and let idle for about 10 minutes, ran just fine. Then this morning, drove 15 miles to work, and did what i described in original post. Seems electrical to me, but just not sure what i could have distrubed by just removing the cluster and jumping out the ac clutch.

Sorry so wordy.

 

Check/test your ignition coil and the ignition control module in the distributor. Other than that you can check your distributor cap and rotor for moisture and wear/fouling. Also check your spark plugs and see what they look like.

If the coil or ignitor (ICM) are on their way out the ECU will not throw a code.

You should also check all of your engine grounds and battery connections. Make sure the connections are clean and tight.

 

So, it may very well be a grounding issue. The only engine ground I can see is the one attached to the drivers side motor mount. I thought for sure there was another one, a two wire deal. but I dont see it attached. So I ran another wire from teh block to the negative terminal. Ran perfect all the way home. Tomorrow will tell if it runs right on the way to work.

 

If you think it's an electrical issue you should first just be checking out the charging system to be on the safe side. Check the voltage at the battery posts while idling the engine and loading up the electrical things to see what's going on just to rule out the alternator. It's best to do this while the car is starting up completely cold when the car is in full output alternator mode.

However, normally the tachometer jumping around points to the ignitor being on its way out.

 

I hate these intermittant problems. Wednesday evening i drove it home(Was really cold and rainy that night, and it shuttered a little bit ont he way home) Today though, it was dry and much warmer, in the 60's. Drove perfect. Tomorrow Am it will be in the 40's i will see what it does. If it does it again, I will see about getting a junk yard distributor.

 

Meh, throwing parts at it just adds variables.
Do basic diagnostics when the car starts running like crap, check for fuel, spark, air. Look for loose/corroded connections.

 

I agree, but it only does it when driving, never when idling. hard to diagnose when driving. Normally, when soemthing is failing...it gets worse...not better.

Thought it was a ground, and it still might be. Theres only two on the engine? One attaching to the top near the drivers side valve cover, and the other near the shift solenoids on the transmission(This one attaches to the negative battery lug) I guess i can remove and check continuity to the negative lug. Also, does anyone have a pinout of the ECM, perhaps I can check all gounds to battery from there. But, all Ihave is a haines, and it doesnt have a very good diagram. open to more ideas.

 

Last night, i took out the distributor. Noticed two things. First, one of the screws attaching the cap had snapped off, so only two were holding it to the distributor. Second, there was a little oil that had managed to seep into the distributor. I repaired the broken screw and cleaned out the oil. It was in between the ignition module and hte heat sync. Cleaned all that out, and sealed it up(The o ring for the cap was wore out a bit). She ran fine this morning in the cold, and this afternoon when it was 70. So, I may have found the problem. I will keep an eye on it for the next few days.

 

So, it ran good last few days. But today, and it was warm, it started to bump again. I had to add a little 134a, so i was jumping the compressor relay with a paperclip. I had the rpm's at @2000, and it started jumping around. One thing I did find and replace, was the black with yellow stripe wire, that attaches to the back of the alternator, was frayed, not cut, but the insulation was cut and a few strands of wire. So I cut it back and put in a good butt splice. Is this the 12V supply to the alternator? I am going to tinker with it a little later, going to check the ground wire continuity to the alt, but i would really love a good wiring diagram, showing colors. if anybody has one? Thanks!

 

Eventually bit the bullit and purchased a new(Ugh I hate buying new for this 17 year old car) ignition module. That fixed it. Been running good for a week now.