So it seems that my car did not only suffer cosmetic damage from the tire retread that I hit on the interstate, it seems I have other damage as well. My left wheel has thick, dirty grease all over it, symptoms of CV boot tear.

Now I did a search, and in one thread (https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=137530), someone suggested that the entire axle should be replaced. Is this something that you all would recommend, or should I just buy a new packet CV boot and replace that?

 

You could repack the boot, so long as it isn't clicking when turning and whatnot. It is a lot easier to slap a new axle in though.

 

replacing the entire cv is easier IMO. to repack the boot, you have to bang out the outer joint with a hammer, then put on the new boot, and then put the joint back together when you fill it with grease. you have to pull the entire axle anyways to replace the boot. IMO its easier to just throw in a new axle, and not worry about the boot slipping off if you didnt tigheten the outer or inner ring that holds the boot in.

 

First you said:
Then you said:
Please clarify. Do you mean axle when you say CV? From what I understand the CV or Constant Velocity boot is the rubber springy thingy at the end of an axle. So is it easier to replace the boot or axle?

 

He means the whole assembly.

 

I see.

 

yeah, i meant the whole assembly. my boot started to slip off and leaked grease. instead of replaceing the boot, after condisdering swapping boots, it was just easier to replace the whole alxe.

 

Any particular recommendations for what brand axle I replace my original one with? Normally I'd go with an OEM replacement, but I know I'll probably break it in the future since I have an Xteme PP w/ SS disc and a Quaife. I've also heard mixed opinions on rebuilds...

 

http://www.driveshaftshop.com talk to frank. $300 for a pair of stage ones. I have been running them on my F22b2 with 65 shot/ACT XTSS no problems!!

 

I was looking at their products, but I didn't see any Stage 1's for Accords... I only saw Stage 2's...

What is the primary difference between their CV axles and OEM CV axles? I see that they list "1117 billet housings and a induction heat treated solid bar," but how does that compare to the OEM design?

Also, do you know if the rubber boot uses a more durable compound?


[Modified by DunReit, 2:56 PM 3/19/2002]

 

they make em. trust me. The use needle bearings in the tulip joint and stronger metal all around

 

Whichever axle you get, if you want to keep your ABS, make sure the axle has the ABS sensor ring on it!

I ordered mine from http://www.raxles.com. They make a great product, but unfortunately they sent me the wrong driver's side axle (easy to screw this up on a hybrid). The passenger side axle is fine, but is missing the ABS sensor ring so no ABS for me.
I've been meaning to return the axle, but haven't gotten around to doing so yet.

 

Dave- just buy the ring from an auto parts store, when i replaced my axle at the track the other weekend the guy told me that he has just taken the ring off old axles and used it again

whatever you do never buy a split boot or try putting a plastic bag over it with zip ties and running on the track, you end up with a bigger mess then you started with

 

Good to "see" you Morgan, it's been a while. Thanks for the info on the ABS ring. Plastic bag with zip ties? LOL

 

and lots of duck tape. Oh well it was worth a try once

 

duct tape and plastic wrap with zip ties... g h e t t o
but i'm sure if i was desparate, i'd try those options too...