I have a 2000 Accord, 186,000 miles. Recently check engine light came on. Had code read at AutoZone, code P1457, vacuum leak. Car idle is high & output, heta, from heater is sporatic, warm, hot, cool. Hot when ideling, cool at high speeds. Any clue? If a vacuum leak how to I find it? Could it be a pcv valve? Thanks.

 

Look in the vicinity of the Intake manifold. Sounds like you've a vacuum hose that's come adrift.

P

 

you should have a small hose attached to your IM, vaccum hose, make sure its on tight and connected well, also make sure your clamps are all tightened the way they should be.

any trouble with idle speed? you can set your idle speed yourself with a flathead screwdriver

 

P1457 is pretty specific to the EVAP system, it's not just a vacuum leak anywhere. This consists of the EVAP canister (sorta underneath LR seat) along with several valves & tubes & stuff. The only thing in the engine compartment would be the EVAP purge valve & it's hose.

Check this out, scroll down to my post. It's from the '98/'99 Helm book, but your 2000 should be almost the same.
https://honda-tech.com/zero...63913

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JimBlake &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">P1457 is pretty specific to the EVAP system, it's not just a vacuum leak anywhere. This consists of the EVAP canister (sorta underneath LR seat) along with several valves & tubes & stuff. The only thing in the engine compartment would be the EVAP purge valve & it's hose.

Check this out, scroll down to my post. It's from the '98/'99 Helm book, but your 2000 should be almost the same.
https://honda-tech.com/zero...63913</TD></TR></TABLE>
JB to the rescue. The first thing I check on p1457 codes is the canister vent shut valve.

 

almost always the canister vent shut valve. its on the charcoal canister under the car near the gas tank. the valve is held on by two screws that are almost always hard to get out.

 

Thanks for the info, everyone. Since vehicle is for sale I don't wnat to invest a lot of $ to repair. Is this repair costly if done at dealership? I am a 50 year old female, normally a diy-er but it's 30 degrees here in NY,,,

Also have been experimenting,, reset check engine light & it will stay out for 2-300 miles or a few days. I have done this, reset light, twice & the 1st time I reset it stayed off for a week or about 300 miles with many stops & restarts throughout the week. When I refueled on a cold morning I drove about 3 miles & then check engine light reappeared.
2nd time I reset light it came back on after 230 miles on a cold night without vehicle warm-up,,, start, put in gear & go.
Rest light again yesterday drove 148 miles, so far no light.
Does the cold or the refueling have any connection to cel returning or is it the amount of miles driven? Both? Would there be an inspection problem given the fact that after cel reset the vehicle is inspection "ready" after 50 or so miles of driving & that cel doesn't relight until 2- 300 miles?
I would like to sell to a private party, vehicle is in excellent condition if it weren't for this problem but would rather trade to dealership if this will cause someone an inspection problem or if it is costly to repair. Thank you again.

 

After a reset, the light doesn't come on until it fails a couple times over a couple of 'driving cycles' or something like that. It's not all about miles alone. But I always figured the OBD-2 readyness codes aren't set until it goes thru those cycles. So I don't know for sure whether you'd get away with that... ?

When mine went, it was the canister vent-shut valve. Apparently that's the most common thing to screw up in this system?

It wasn't during the winter, I have a garage, & it was still kind of a PITA. There's not much room, the mounting screws are corroded & they're tiny & soft. My wife won't let me spend $3000 for a lift in the garage. But the part was only $40 or $50. If the dealer goes thru the 'official' procedure it might take a little time to rule out the stuff that's ahead of the V-S valve, but who knows? If an independant mechanic doesn't know their way around the system they'll spend some time learning. Just like I spent an hour reading thru the manual & gathering a few jumper wires & dum stuff like that.