brake bleeding tutorial
Anywhere somebody can point me that would have a tutorial on bleeding brakes, specifically for a 97 Accord EX sedan, 4cylinder? I would probably be doing it by myself also.
Oddly, I believe I looked this up in Helms (for my 98), and it spells out the bleeding process in the reverse order:
LF, RF, LR, RR
Not sure why...most cars specify furthest from the MC first, and work your way around to the closest wheel.
BTW, if you want a one-man pressure bleeder, Motive Products in CA sells a pressure bleeder. I have one for my Audi...and it's great. I bought a fitting for the Honda, however it's a universal fitting (not so nice). Differences below:
Audi - comes with a cap that screws onto the reservoir in place of the existing cap. The bleeder maintains 10 psi by using this cap, and also siphons fluid in there so you don't worry about it running dry.
Honda - Square plate with a gasket fits over the reservoir opening. You strap the plate around the reservoir with supplied chain links (!), and screw it down using the wing nuts. Test the unit dry to make sure the cap is sealed tightly over the reservoir, and it maintains 10 psi. Then open the tank and add fluid. This is more cumbersome than it should be...because they provide a universal adaptor, rather than one made to fit Hondas.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
LF, RF, LR, RR
Not sure why...most cars specify furthest from the MC first, and work your way around to the closest wheel.
BTW, if you want a one-man pressure bleeder, Motive Products in CA sells a pressure bleeder. I have one for my Audi...and it's great. I bought a fitting for the Honda, however it's a universal fitting (not so nice). Differences below:
Audi - comes with a cap that screws onto the reservoir in place of the existing cap. The bleeder maintains 10 psi by using this cap, and also siphons fluid in there so you don't worry about it running dry.
Honda - Square plate with a gasket fits over the reservoir opening. You strap the plate around the reservoir with supplied chain links (!), and screw it down using the wing nuts. Test the unit dry to make sure the cap is sealed tightly over the reservoir, and it maintains 10 psi. Then open the tank and add fluid. This is more cumbersome than it should be...because they provide a universal adaptor, rather than one made to fit Hondas.
http://www.motiveproducts.com/
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RKA »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Not sure why...most cars specify furthest from the MC first, and work your way around to the closest wheel.</TD></TR></TABLE>Bleeding order is based on which circuit is more likely to push bubbles into which other circuit. Before ABS they were pretty much all the same, but you bleed a diagonal circuit together. With ABS all the cars have different plumbing arrangements, so you can't say the bleeding order is 'all the same'.
I had a '74 BMW tii with 4-piston front calipers. Each circuit operated both fronts & one rear. Each front caliper had 2 hoses & 3 bleed screws. That had a strange bleeding order...
I had a '74 BMW tii with 4-piston front calipers. Each circuit operated both fronts & one rear. Each front caliper had 2 hoses & 3 bleed screws. That had a strange bleeding order...
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Brandon Turner
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