Accord Immobilizer problem
We seem to have a different problem than most immobilizer issues we have read, but just can't seem to find a situation similar to ours. Our 1998 Honda Accord will crank 7 out of 10 times. You can always tell if it will start or not because the green key light will not light at all it if wont start. If the light comes on, you know the car will start. We have bought a new key, but it has not affected anything. Thanks in advance for any help.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
So I'm new to this forum. I just created an account. I have an issue similar to this yet different. I have a 2005 Honda accord EX 6 speed manual coupe. I had to have a new ignition cylinder installed and it came with the immobilizer unit and two master keys with the valet key as well. I purchased the OE part through my local Honda dealership. They installed the parts and all went well. I was having immobilizer issues prior to this. Hence the reason why I opted to have the dealer install OE parts. They said that they cannot get the keys to program to the vehicle. I know that the ecu has a max memory bank of "X" amount of keys. I also know that sometimes you have to completely flash the ecu and start all over as if programming a brand new car. I do not currently have access to the vehicle as it is still in the dealership's possession. I was wondering if anyone had any clue as to what would cause this issue or of any solutions. If I am posting in the wrong place someone please direct me to where to post this request. Thanks in advance.
I ended up buying a tool called an CK-100+ which will let you clear all the keys and then configure the immobilizer to recognize the new keys because I had maxed out the key amount (3).
I would think the dealer would have no issues doing this.
Looks like this:
https://www.key-programmer.com/ck100/
Sells for about $100. You plug it into the odb port, then tell it to make new keys.
I would think the dealer would have no issues doing this.
Looks like this:
https://www.key-programmer.com/ck100/
Sells for about $100. You plug it into the odb port, then tell it to make new keys.
I would have thought that the dealer would have had no issues either. Apparently I was gravely mistaken as they've had the car since this Monday. If they can't resolve the issue, that will be my first go to. I am wondering if possibly the security system relays or fuses may have blown. I had to replace my battery in the car and maybe that tripped it and caused it to glitch?
The other direction to bypass is to buy a bypass chip and replace the immobilizer, and never worry again.
If you can solder, then this is also an easy fix and you can then use $10 keys going forward from anywhere.
-E
If you can solder, then this is also an easy fix and you can then use $10 keys going forward from anywhere.
-E
very true. I'm trying to avoid anything that may "void any warranties" of any sort. That was kind of going to be a last resort type thing for me. My question is, if it isn't the immobilizer and it is the ecu, will that still work? Or will i need to get a new ecu......trying to avoid that hole in the head expense.
I don't see how it could be anything else. The items sync to verify authentic key is in the lock. Remove that, and any key will just work (provided the key has been cut to correctly fit the lock itself).
I would find it hard to believe you would need a new ECU unless it's actually damaged.
I would find it hard to believe you would need a new ECU unless it's actually damaged.
Just for clarification it is an OE cylinder and key set from Honda themselves that i purchased through the dealership. So i don't know how it would be cut incorrectly or anything. I do see your point. I wonder if the immobilizer board is fried? Or is that possible? It came with the new immobilizer ring with the ignition cylinder assembly that i purchased.
Right, I was just clarifying about the key being cut in case someone reading this thought I meant you could literally fit "any" key in and it would work. It just bypasses the immobilizer. It's why I have both the keymaker CK-100+ and immobilizer chips, so if I were to try and make keys and for some reason it wasn't working, I would just not waste any time and simply drop the ECU, solder on the immobilzer bypass chip and then just be on my way. Also for engine swaps and things like that. I'm not going to the dealer or be unable to drive my car because of stupid things like this. These are old cars, stuff like this breaks and then you are stuck. A friend of mine go into a situation like this because he didn't know about the immobilizer so he has keys, junkyard ECU, and junkyard ignition from different vehicles. It was so much easier to just throw on the bypass chip and then it all worked.
Again, like you said, I am surprised the dealer can't get this to work, but then maybe it's something else weird going on. Easy way to just eliminate all those possibilities is a bypass.
but that's me. I hope they find the answer, but if not at least you have options.
Again, like you said, I am surprised the dealer can't get this to work, but then maybe it's something else weird going on. Easy way to just eliminate all those possibilities is a bypass.
but that's me. I hope they find the answer, but if not at least you have options.
Sounds like the same thing as above, ignition issue.
Often, for a quick temp fix you might be able to wiggle the key and try until starts. If it doesn't, then you need to replace ignition. If its the immobilizer, then you can solder in a bypass, or replace everything.
ignition switch:
car not starting, things to look at:
other ideas:
Often, for a quick temp fix you might be able to wiggle the key and try until starts. If it doesn't, then you need to replace ignition. If its the immobilizer, then you can solder in a bypass, or replace everything.
ignition switch:
car not starting, things to look at:
other ideas:
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