My 99 Accord 4cyl is not starting because immobilizer refuses to accept both keys. It has happened a few times now. The car dos start eventually. Once it started when i gave a jump from another car. Next time it happened, even giving jump didn't work. Last night the car failed to start again. I tried it again today and same result (the green key keeps blinking), left the car for couple of hours, tried again and the car started. What gives!

I have two original keys for this car and the results are same with either one of them. I have changed the main relay already. What else should I be checking? Please help!!

 

I ran into immobilizer probs when swapping in my h22... I would say jus get a jdm ecu and do without the immobilizer cause the usdm ecu's have to have some kind of anti theft thing before it goes on the market... it's really stupid to me...

I've seen sites on how to remove them... but Im not that great at soldering stuff... I dunno how to fix it... mabey it came loose? and you could just resolder it in?? hopefully I helped sum... sorry bout that...

 

forgot to mention that the battery is only an year old and i still had it checked. Tests were okay.

Any suggestions O wise ones!

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zmofny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My 99 Accord 4cyl is not starting because immobilizer refuses to accept both keys. It has happened a few times now. The car dos start eventually. Once it started when i gave a jump from another car. Next time it happened, even giving jump didn't work. Last night the car failed to start again. I tried it again today and same result (the green key keeps blinking), left the car for couple of hours, tried again and the car started. What gives!

I have two original keys for this car and the results are same with either one of them. I have changed the main relay already. What else should I be checking? Please help!!
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright, first off, jumping the car from another has nothing to do with the immobilizer system. Doing so would not change the fact that the ECU controls the fuel supply based on the immobilizer receiver unit's input.

So when you insert the key, the indicator light appears for two seconds, then continues to blink until you turn the ignition off? Or does it appear for two seconds then go off? Does it do this randomly, no matter which key you use?

Let me know, and I can help you from there. Also, do you have a multimeter to test some connections?

 

Low battery voltage will cause this situation every time. Have a real load test performed on the battery and see what happens. If that battery is good you might have excessive key off current draw.

 

AFAccord, Ross, Thank for your response. When I insert the key, the indicator light appears for two seconds, then continues to blink until you turn the ignition off. I have two original keys and it happens with both.

I had someone check with snap-on scanner today and he said somethign about the communication between ecm and engine at being around 48%.. I have no clue what he meant by that... any idea?

I do have a multimeter.

I drove the car last night for about 35 miles. When i tried to start the car today morning, the key indicator light kept blinking. I left the car and then tried again after about an hour. This time the car started right away. Used the same key both times, and did not touch anything else in the car. Since then I have started the car many times, with several hours interval, and each time car started right away.

I should have mentioned it before, the car has an after market avistart 3000 remote starter installed which is switched off (not actively used). It was already installed when i got this car 5 yrs ago and has been off for couple of years now. It is switched off, but not disconnected.

Thanks again for your help!

 

Disconnect the alarm then. Unplug all of the relays and connectors from the control box. You may need to repair one wire on the ignition switch harness if it had a starter interrupt.

 

It is just the remote starter, no alarm. Still take it out?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zmofny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It is just the remote starter, no alarm. Still take it out?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I would rather rule it out and be wrong rather than overlook it and feel stupid.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by zmofny &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">AFAccord,
I should have mentioned it before, the car has an after market avistart 3000 remote starter installed which is switched off (not actively used). It was already installed when i got this car 5 yrs ago and has been off for couple of years now. It is switched off, but not disconnected.

Thanks again for your help!</TD></TR></TABLE>

Bingo. Can you take a picture of the key cylinder. When the remote start was installed it had one of two bypass installed. 1 is a key in a box with a a ring around the key cylinder. I don't think this one applies because you have both keys. 2nd is a bypass that is programmed using both of your keys. This unit send a signal to your ecu to let the fuel pump come on during remote start. If you are not using remote start and it has been awhile or the unit was not installed right. It will give the problems that you are having. Its a easy fix. Pull the cover off the steering wheel. Locate a green plug going to the key immobilizer. There should be three wires tagged into it going in to a bypass. Take the two wire to the bypass off and solder the split wires back toghter

 

They used option 1... valet key and a wire going around the key cylinder. :-(

 

AFAccord, eagerly waiting for your message for testing instructions.

The main connecter for the remote start.

The power +12v, black/yellow & black/white wires are spliced and the wires are coming to this connecter. Is it sufficient to disconnect it?


As mentioned before, the green key light keeps blinking when the ignition is turned on. Car does start every now and then and now i wonder if it starts when the weather is a bit warmer. (i know.. probably no connection to the problem )


Here is the picture of how the 3rd key was used and the loop around the ingition cylinder.




Modified by zmofny at 2:05 PM 11/2/2008


Modified by zmofny at 2:06 PM 11/2/2008

 

Assuming the remote start system is NOT playing a part in this problem, you can check the following.

1. Disconnect the 5P connector (A) from the immobilizer receiver unit (B).

2. Check for voltage between no.1 terminal and body ground. You should see battery voltage.

3. Check for continuity between the no.4 terminal and body ground. You should see continuity.

4. Check for continuity between the no.2 terminal and the ECU. You should see continuity between the terminal and ECU (red wire, A25 at the ECU).

5. Check for continuity between the no.3 terminal and the ECU. You should see continuity between the terminal and ECU (blue wire, A13 at the ECU).

If you get to any of these steps and don't see the required voltage or continuity, let us know, and we'll see what the recommended fix action is.

If you get through all of these procedures successfully, Honda recommends that you replace the immobilizer receiver unit.







Modified by AFAccord at 10:44 PM 11/3/2008

 

I followed the instructions and got the expected results described in previous post. Attached are the pics of the connectors I checked. Please confirm if these are the right ones. Thanks.

 

I'm in a similar situation, tested by following the procedures outlined but failed in step 3, i.e. there was no continuity between the no.4 terminal and body ground.

Thanks,

EdChan

 

open CPU and remove daughter board, will throw a code but at least the car will start and run

 

Please walk through this. What would be a CPU? A daughter board? Where would be the mother? Thanks for your reply!

 

We seem to have a different problem than most immobilizer issues we have read, but just can't seem to find a situation similar to ours. Our 1998 Honda Accord will crank 7 out of 10 times. You can always tell if it will start or not because the green key light will not light at all it if wont start. If the light comes on, you know the car will start. We have bought a new key, but it has not affected anything. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Everything checked out except for #2 - it does not show battery voltage, shows way lower voltage. It shows .05 volts. There is no remote start on the car.

 

Check the fuses- #1 15amp in the drivers underdash fuse box and #46 15amp underhood fuse box.

If good then there is an open in the YEL/BLK wire between the main relay and the receiver.

 

Congratulations. I will check #1, #46. My car has no gren key lock at oll.

 

checking fuses with key on?

 

IChecked the fuses- #1 15amp in the drivers underdash fuse box and #46 15amp underhood fuse box. Oll fuses is good.

What means (open) in the YEL/BLK wire and were is located main relay and the receiver?

 

Would the immobilizer cause no spark or does it only control the fuel supply?

 

My 2003 accord immobiizer light wont come on at all. car wont start but engine is rolling over