Hey all, thanks for 1)an awesome forum for this, and 2)taking the time to read this!

Problem is as the title says, my Accord has been randomly dying lately, and I've thrown a few parts at it and tested some stuff and am at my wit's end on it.

What it's doing:
It'll start just fine, and run cold (sometimes has the ignition surge, but that's not what I'm asking about lol) but after it warms up, sometimes it will be fine for a while then out of nowhere it's like the engine hits a wall. RPM's drop to 1000 flat, regardless of how hard you mash the pedal, and either dies from there or takes off like a jackrabbit. No CEL codes, I pulled the 2 stored (1- o2 sensor and 12-egr) and reset to be sure. EGR code was because I disconnected it while troubleshooting, ports are clear according to the tests. Now, it doesn't always flatline at 1k rpm, sometimes it just dies. Can happen while decelerating or accelerating, not related to turning as far as I can tell.

Tested/replaced(not necessarily in this order):
new: Plugs/wires/cap/rotor.
new: Ignition Coil
new: O2 sensor (had 40k known miles on it, that's how long I've owned the car)
new: Fuel Filter (pressure is fine, so pump SHOULD still be good...)
Wiggled the key around, removed from keyring for good measure, no effect
new: Main Relay
Replaced ICM about 3 years ago, debating if it needs a new one already.

I have a TPS en route, will be here tomorrow, when I replace that I will clean the throttle body out, check it over and all.

My question(s) are thus: if the tps/throttle body thing doesn't work, what else could it be? the ICM aka igniter? the ECU? and do you think the tps/tb will work?

Feel like I'm beating my head against a wall...

 

And yeah, I know, I started a new one when there's probably enough combined comments on other threads to piecemeal it all together, and I MIGHT come to the right conclusion doing it that way... whereas I figured this way would actually get a direct response to my questions, rather than hijacking someone else's thread. Any input would be appreciated though, I'm just a shade-tree mechanic tryin to keep my car going well enough to get back and forth to work.

 

check the connections of the map sensor and have the map tested. tps is a definite possibility. check the wiring at all major connectors and make sure none of the pins came out.

i would also pull the o2 sensor and make sure its not burnt. if it is its likely your cat is also bad. any check engine lights?

 

I can only answer about the ECU. I just replaced one on a 94 Accord. It's really easy to tell if you have a bad ECU.

1. CEL comes on and won't turn off.

2. Your car won't start at all.

 

neither of those problems means you 100% have a bad ecu though it possible. its likely that something else is the problem.

if the cel comes on your in luck pull the codes.

 

@bdmlilburn : unfortunately, no, no CEL codes to be had now, will check the MAP sensor if TPS doesn't fix the issue. Checked a lot of connections, seemed pretty secure all the way around... whether I have a bad ground somewhere or not I don't know yet lol but I ain't lookin forward to tracking that one down. O2 sensor is new, old one was exactly that; old (40k+ on it). Didn't seem burnt more than would be expected from that many miles on it.

@davidt1 : is the ECU on the 94 in the same place as the 93 model? (passenger side floorboard) with neither of your 2 situations being the case with mine, I hope I'm safe with my current ECU lol but it is an intermittent problem so I dunno....

 

side note: I currently have the throttle body off and at work with me, am soaking it down in the parts wash tank. Gonna take it home and put the new TPS on and set that. *fingers crossed*

thanks for the input!

 

yes ecu is in the passenger floorboard.

grounds-there are three major ones:
1. engine ground- going from drivers side valve cover -> engine mount ->frame
2. tranny ground- going from the front left bottom of the tranny -> battery negative terminal -> frame
3. ecu ground - its a simple ground that is bolted to the bottom passenger side of the thermostat housing

make sure all the grounds are clean and tight so ensure a good connection

 

As suggested, double check the gounds.....then if the issue is still there

When it dies...does it start right back up?

The "key test" you've done isn't a prue/clean test....if/when it dies, leave the key in the on position, do you have 12v to the BLK/YEL wire at the dist?

 

well when it first started doing it yes, it consistently started back up. then as the time in between it dying got shorter, the longer it took to start back up. today, it started and ran for a minute and a half (after reinstalling the throttle body and tuning the new TPS) then died. started right back up, then died after about a minute, then wouldn't start back up at all... gonna go back to the basics over the weekend and check for fire and fuel again. I'm really starting to think it's the igniter, at this point, even though it's less than 4 years old. or the distributor internals, gonna pull the cap/rotor and check for cracks and oil underneath. @Lost- will check the BLK/YEL wire also, before I pull anything else off the car.

 

Ok... I feel kinda dumb now lol after I went through all the above, I pulled the dissy cap off and the rotor and dust guard... found that the 2nd wire to the ICM(1st on the side with 3, next to the side one) the connector was loose, as well as the 4th wire (YEL/GRN) had a bit of broken insulation. Sealed that, crimped that connector down, and tightened the screw for the ICM bracket (not sure how but it worked its way loose even with a lock washer.... o.0 ) once I put it all back together (noticed slight play in the rotor itself, not the dissy tho thank god) i started it up and it ran smooth, idle was perfect. took it around the neighbourhood and it ran like a top.

@lost- checked the BLK/YEL when it died before I pulled the cap and all, had 10.7v cuz my battery was running out of juice. hooked it up to the charger for a while and got 12.5v, and was ok.

moral of the story? check wires, including hidden ones, before buying anything ><

thanks for the help everybody, and I hope this helps someone else down the road. will know in a couple days if the problem's completely gone.

 

I am glad it works out for you.