What is stamped on the block?

Is this a D15B7 with a D15B head?

Or is this a D15B block with a D15B head (which should have no issues)

 

Block is stamped D15B. Head has the circle with year 9/2 in it.. So 92' and it also says p07..

 

Isn't a P07 a D15Z1? If so, The VTEC-E may have something to do with this.
Do you have a CEL?

Also, are you able to set the ignition timing? This would indicate that your cam-crank timing is probably fine. I doubt it's the timing though because you said it runs good until 5k. The reason I bring up timing is because in most cases, putting a JDM D15B head or block on a USDM anything head or block will cause timing issues... if you use D15B block though, a Z6 head works with no problem... and I think a D15Z1 might be the same way.

 

I thought all vtec-e's had that fuel selenoid by the intake manifold.. Maybe I ****ed up buying this car.... lol I guess I start saving for a swap


There are NO CEL'S. at all. I even double checked and jumped it anyways. I was able to set the ignition timing with the timing light ok. So I kinda ruled out the camcrank timing as well.

 

It is possible that I am wrong in identifying the head. We need to find out what a P07 head is for sure. Maybe someone else has some input on this

 

Yeah, Im off to bed right now. I'll check back when im up. I sent a pm to a SOHC guru on a local forum so hopefully he'll help me out.

thanks for all your help for now trustdestruction

 

92 VX D15Z1 5sp------P07

 

Alright. Well the JDM D15B block is pretty similar to that of the VX, so I really don't think there will be any issues there.

Sounds like it may be an ECU problem. What ECU does it have? You'd need the ECU to match the D15Z1 head. Also, does VTEC appear to be wired up?

 

So yea the local U-Pull-It here sucks *****. Went there and found no signs of a Del Sol. All you see is a bunch of stripped Tegs and Civics.

I guess Del Sol's aren't being used and abused which is a good thing

 

It has a p28 in it, and yes vtec appears to be hooked up. The harness has all the vtec wires in it.

If it was the ecu vtec problem what explains all the black soot, and water coming out?

If it was just wrong ecu, wouldnt it still rev past 5k just not engage vtec?

 

Oh I have a funny story involving the Sol.

I was on my way to U-Pull-It, and there's a cop and once everyone sees a cop they all drive like elderly people. So I, the brave one, drop it in 3rd and fly right past the cop then he quickly pulls up behind me and starts flashing his lights.

He pulls me over and says, "you know why I pulled you over right?" I said "No" while quietly laughing in my mind. He then says "You were going 65 in a 40 MPH zone. I tell "Humm maybe my speedometer isn't reading right because I just changed my rims/tires to 15's from 13's about 2 days ago. He then ask for my drivers license, registration, and insurance. He glances at it for a second or two then lets me off with a warning. Woohoo no ticket for me. He was a state trooper and he looked fairly young so I guess he didn't go overboard with it like most cops.

Why did I fly past the cop at 60mph even though I saw him and knew it was a 40mph zone? Just for the hell of it lol

Was my speedometer off? No lol I have 195/50/15 tires so my speedometer reads the right thing. I played with his mind.

Did I just get my rims 2 days ago? Nope I had these suckers since Feb 24th.

 

better becareful, those state troopers are *********... dont test em

 

The D15Z1 uses a three-stage VTEC system called VTEC-e. You should really use the ecu from a D15Z1 because otherwise your fuel maps for the varying stages of VTEC will be off. VTEC-e is an economy system designed for ridiculous fuel economy. VTEC is designed to allow the car to have some performance in the higher revs while maintaining the streetability in the low revs.

What that means is you are probably running hella rich with the p28. Rich to the point of shooting gas out the exhaust (that's not water) and ruining your catalytic converter. You should get the right ECU for the head, or hook up an a/f gauge to see how much fuel is in that bitch :thumbsup:

 

Yea man I learned my lesson. I would usually fly past cops like they're nothing, but I'm not doing that anymore. Good thing I didn't bitch and complain to him about why he pulled me over because then he would of probably gave me a ticket for going 20 over the speed limit which would result in a hefty fine.

I got pretty lucky today.

 

Wow. This place...lol! Jason and Lane...you men are brave for patrolling this place so often

Mr. Racks, what's your deal man? You get all crazy then act like the victim. No one has ever called you out. If you have parts that don't fit your car and you don't want people to give you crap about them, don't post pics of your car. It's easy.

Kaboom, good work on the Sol! It's lookin better every time! I agree tho, don't go too crazy with the cops

Gotta go back to some more fuel probs on my EF now...miss the Sol

 

You are close, but it's actually still 2 stage VTEC. It's VTEC, but backwards and for a different purpose. You start out in VTEC-E, which means you are running on only one intake valve per cylinder. Then at a certain RPM (It's around 3500 or something if you have the correct ECU) all the valves engage (stage 2). This gives you better fuel efficiency in the lower RPMs, while still allowing the higher RPMs to perform normally.

The D15Z1 doesn't have the performance in the higher revs, it peaks at 90 HP, which is worse than the D15B7.
The D16Y5 though in the 96-00 Civic HX though does do better in the higher RPMs than the D16Y7, but I think this might be that Honda figured out that since there are 2 stages, they can still make the high cam profile a little more performance based, since you won't be driving in the second stage unless you are doing it on purpose, which would imply you want the power to be there.



You are correct about the problem though. The engine is running hella rich in the second stage, because you are using standard VTEC stage 2 maps during the point in which you should be using regular stage 2 maps.

Since the D15Z1 stage 1 is VTEC-E and the D16Z6 stage 1 is non-VTEC, here is what is happening:

Your engine is suppose to have VTEC-E engaged and use 12 valves in stage 1 and use less fuel. The P28 doesn't start out in VTEC, so you are actually starting out with 16 valves instead of 12.
Then when you hit the crossover point (which is 5000 on the P28 but you need it to be lower), your P28 engages VTEC instead of disengaging it, thus causing the engine to start running on 12 valves. At the same time, your ECU is telling the fuel system to send MORE fuel even though the engine is running on 12 valves (because the engine is not suppose to be running on 12 valves right now but the P28 ECU engages VTEC so that's what ends up happening).
The combination of switching to 12 valves and running really rich causes it to feel like a rev limiter, like a bogging down sort of.



Get the D15Z1 P07 ECU and I think all of your troubles will disappear.

EDIT: I might be wrong about starting off with the VTEC solenoid engaged in VTEC-E, I think it might be the other way around and the 12-valve 16-valve thing is still happening in the proper order. Regardless, the P28 ECU is causing the problem.

 

wasup guys havent posted here in a while just wanted to share my sold i actually got it done like a months ago but i still havent put my s2k seats in

but heres the before look:




and the after :



i need more pics. hopefully ill get some soon

 

They fit. The only problem was in the gas gauge/coolant temp area. But alls I did was drill a little hole for the the bulb to go in and problem solved. I opted for the cool white and I'm regretting it. Too blue

 

The after photo is looking nice In the before pic it looks like a 4x4 lol.

My Sol looks like a 4x4 now, but that sucker is getting slammed next week.

 

i like !!!! i like alot, looks abit like mine except im not rideing on type r stocks im still on regular stockies

 

my car smells like gas, i filled her up the other day..first time in about 6 months sense its been in storage and theres a pretty good gas smell from outside the car in garage and inside the cabin, any-1 have any suggestions?

i figured id remove the rear cabin's next weekend and check out where the walbro 255 is, i see no fluid leaks on the garage floor, just a decent gas odor around the car, ive got no fuel pressure loss or anything

i did notice when i remove the gas cap i get no vaccumm...gush of air sound...usually after the car sit's for a while after filling up or in general when removing the gas cap i get a vaccum/gush of air noise....maybe a bad seal somewhere?

 

Well it looks like I might have to do that then.

 

 

a shot before i got my bezel for the cluster done

 

So when I got my Sol the glovebox was broken along with various panels and little things. Well I fixed all those things and forgot all about the glove box since I rarely use it. So instead of searching the world for a expensive 93 glovebox I decided to just do a simple fix on it.

Here is the 93 glove box with the broken hinge



Then I went to walmart and bought some Epoxy glue for $2.xx. I squeezed some out on a little piece of cardboard and mixed it around with a screw I found on the floor until it got almost hardened. Then I rubbed the expoy on the broken hinge and set it at an angle so it can stay in the same position and dry.

About 30 minutes later it's dry.





I'm gonna put it back in the Sol now and see how well it holds up. I don't intend on putting anything in it besides insurance and registration card so the epoxy should hold up well.