your A/C system. It uses a coolant that has most likely lost its effectiveness. You need to recharge the system for it to work again.

Go to autozone and ask.

 

with freon! but does ur car have ac first to begin with? u hook it up to that line between ur header and radiator, there should be a hose with a blue cap on top! but to do it the right way u want to suck up the air out ur lines first then charge it up so the air in ur lines wont freeze!

 

cut n paste this on the honda tech search form. it shows u what to do! HOW TO: Charge your A/C air condition conditioner conditioning system at home.

 

I would go to local michanik and do it right at first time. He'll do the vacum test and recharge it for you. That's what I did. I don't trust those auto store $9 crap it only work temporary if you do it right.

 

If your ac system is is blowing warm air it's probably got a leak, you need to get that fixed so it won't keep leaking. I did a write up on it over on teamsolcal.com, but I can't access that site from my work computer. There's pictures there and step by step directions.

 

Almost done with my cluster trim

 

Nice.

 

Got a free lip today. Found a WWRS copy on the freeway.

Thing is in fine condition, just some superficial scuffs. Nothing that some elbow grease and some 400g won't take care of. Definitely tide me over until my BYS lip after the swap.

 

what cluster is that?

 

s2000

unless you're asking ap1 or ap2?

 

nope, I just think it looks cool and didn't know what it was.

 

free is free but the bys will look good on silver x2

 

Damn Jason you seriously snagged a WW lip off the freeway? Why can't I find cool parts just laying around?

Cali lean ftl.

 

Yep. I think it's a JDMSh!t copy, looks just like this:



Except ran over by a ricer. It was spraypainted gloss black too. Because urethane isn't glossy enough.

 

I need to get a lip

 

i thought i got a deal when i got my jdm **** wwrs lip for $70

 

Err, don't just go throwing freon at your car...


First of all, what year is your car? 1993 (and possibly 1994, i don't remember) models use R12, which you can't even buy anymore. The newer models use R134a. If you do in fact need a recharge and your car has R12, get an R134a conversion kit from the store. Put the fittings on, but leave your refrigerant alone, do not drain it, and do not add to it. Take it to a shop and tell them you have R12 in the system, and you have R134a fittings on it, and you need the R12 vacuumed out and then R134a pumped in. Many shops can't vacuum R12, so you'll probably have to call around. Firestone is able to vacuum R12, I don't know about others. The entire service will cost approximately $100.

Secondly, if you were to use the kit at the store for recharging the system (not recommended), you need a different gauge than the shitty one-port gauge it comes with, you need a manifold gauge that reads from both refrigerant ports. I still recommend getting it done professionally though.

Next, you first need to know if that is in fact the problem... the easiest thing to do is go to a shop, and get an A/C diagnosis done for $20-40 (many places have specials during this time of the year for $20). Sometimes the diagnosis will be wrong though (happened to me...), so never go completely by what they say, and always get a second opinion... post your troubles on the forum to get more ideas.


Now, I want to ask you, if you look underneath the hood at the A/C compressor, with the A/C turned on and everything, is the compressor clutch engaged?
The pulley will spin freely on the compressor and you will see the pulley spinning when the A/C is off, but when you turn the A/C on, a clutch in the compressor will engage and then the entire metal cylinder sticking out of the side of the compressor will turn. There are some small bolt heads sticking out the side of the compressor wheel, you will see them spinning when the clutch engages.
If the compressor isn't engaging, then you just need to figure out why. In my case, the compressor relay was bad (it's right next to the driver's side headlight and cylinder head ground). Other people have experienced wiring issues such as frayed wires around the compressor causing the condenser fan fuse to blow (runs on same circuit), or even the wire from the relay to the compressor being sheared or completely disconnected.

 

 

Boosted people, are you guys running OEM or cometic head gasket?

 

I been runing Cometic head gaskets forever with no problems.

 

oem. then again all i did was throw some gsr cams at mine. lol

 

new pic

 

golden eagle aka oem HGs

also GE head studs > ARP

 

how do they take pics like that?

 

OEM