lostforawhile

I'm starting this thread for those of us who like our engine bays to look mechanical, not like someone popped the hood and stole everything they could find. If you like everything tucked and shaved, that's your thing, but for those of us who like an engine to look like an engine, this is the place for you. It's all about mechanical function and custom work, no flaming please, not all of us are done with our projects yet, and our cars may not be spotless this thread is about creativity, this is not a judgement thread

siblues

iTrader: (1)

Good luck with thread it sucks about what happened in the other thread.I hope this thread stays informative and the posters stay helpfully unlike the other thread.

EFSedan#6

iTrader: (3)

Pics??

lostforawhile

I'll post a couple but I dont want this to become a build thread

86 Accord hatch, SU carbs, oil cooler and remote filter setup, MSD ignition, S&S long tube header, custom intake manifold. stuff you can't see too, like the cam, and the high compression head I'm going to start working on soon, I still have a long way to go

WhiteSlips

Was that before it was done? Looks like a few male AN fittings that don't lead to anything? Not hating, just curious.

I'm not really in to the shaved thing, but I did reroute the engine harnesses and the headlight harnesses on mine.... I like the stock battery, fusebox, fuel filter, and clutch reservoir location and don't plan on "hiding" anything else. I don't want to have to crawl under my dash to check an engine bay fuse or worry about changing out a little tiny fuel filter all the time.

lostforawhile

everything isn't hooked up in the picture i'm still working on it i just found another set of these carbs already overhauled, i've still got to figure out a few things, some of the fittings are vacuum, the manifold vacuum port on the part of the datsun manifold I used ,was on the side opposite the booster, I found a Honda aluminum fuel rail in some junk, and modified it to bolt to the front part of the manifold, it carries vacuum back across the manifold and gives me several places to tap into it, it's also part of the brackets that hold the throttle cable and choke cable

Gabe624

iTrader: (1)

@whiteslips that looks amazing. Very clean work. Im doing my first swap, this weekend. I wasnt going full/tuck and shave, was hoping for something a bit more modest. This is exactly what im going for.

lostforawhile

I asked this in the other thread but it got deleted, does someone know where to get pre bent AN line, the hard tube, with really short radius bends? I want to replace this line with hard line, I can make the bend fine, but the issue is if I cut off the bend short enough to clear the wiper motor, there isnt enough space to put on the tube nut and ferule before I flare it, it takes a certain depth of line to go in my AN flaring tool. I need to find a line with a really short radius bend and a tube nut already installed. I can bend and fit the other end just fine. the barbed fitting under the motor is for booster vacuum, I'm putting the check valve inside of the fender, there are other connections that go to vacuum too, and they can all go under there. It lets me run one line from the manifold straight to the inner fender, looks much cleaner.

toyomatt84

iTrader: (1)

It didn't get deleted. It got re-located to your build thread here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/appearance-build-threads-122/my-classic-engine-bay-clean-up-thread-3053440/

lostforawhile

this isnt a build thread, this is for anyone to post their custom stuff, and ask questions, hopefully find answers etc, The shaved engine bay stuff has gotten out of hand, I saw one on another forum where they removed the wiper motor and welded up the hole, no wipers, but no wiper motor! give me a break this thread isn't judgmental, if someone builds a cool looking engine bay, it's welcome, the "everyone has to have identical stuff" ruins creativity

siblues

iTrader: (1)

I looked around and called about the pre bent stuff a few years ago with no luck.

lostforawhile

i think a hard tube adapter might fit, I think I might have one out there with no ferrule, but the bend is so tight, I dont know. If I could a stainless carb fuel line or something with a sharp bend, I might be able to adapt that to a hard tube adapter, the AN flaring tool I have is a WW2 era heavy duty aircraft type, so I can flare steel and stainless for AN also

siblues

iTrader: (1)

Could you use a braided line to a bulkhead then use hard line after the bulkhead? I am a bit lost on whether you are trying to clean something up or just looking to replace it with something better? I used all braided lines inside my car for the simple reason that they are pre made and easy to route plus it was my first time making my own brake lines.

lostforawhile

I just thought he hard line might look better is all, it's not a huge deal, I just changed the hose barb to a russel hard tube adapter and thats where the braided line attaches. I'll find a better picture. My pump is only 6 psi, and after the regulator it's only 2 psi, so I'm not worried about high pressure leaks or anything

lostforawhile

this is the one I'm talking about with the wiper motor off, it barely clears the bottom of the motor. firewall looks bad, eventually it will get cleaned up

siblues

iTrader: (1)

Ahh I get you.You and I seem to be doing most of our work with the engine stilly in the bay it's much harder to make things fit and look good that way.

lostforawhile

once everything fits, I'll pull it, and clean it up, I have very little clearance for anything, if I do it with the engine in, no surprises, my back has to get better before I'll be pulling engines anytime soon

BriantheButcher

Get some hard line. Flare it first then bend it. Should work that way.

lostforawhile

I tried that, but the tube nut and ferrule has to go on first, and then it wont fit in the bender, i might just use some black braided line on all the fuel stuff, it would look better, I got a lot done, but I dont want to fill this thread with all my stuff, I would like to see other custom stuff too

BriantheButcher

You don't need a bender. Just use a vice a piece if round bar that us about the size you want the bend to be. Bend the line around the bar and you will get your tight radias bend.