D16Y, Greddy turbo, and a MF2 setup. . .with 440's

I don't want to hear "swap for a DOHC" I want to know if anyone has done it or if it's not worth it. . . and no I didn't do a search.
I'm arguing with Art. . .and Art you can't reply to this thread!

 

Me Me! Well, no MF2 though. With a set of 440's, there no way on this earth you're gonna need an additional injector setup, I use 440's in my D16 now and it's SUPER rich even with -40% AFC trim. Ditch the MF2, stick with the 440's. It'll take a bit of playing with to operate just right (or as close as you can get w/o a standlone), but it's fun when you're done

 

MF2 Blows.

 

id skip the greddy turbo and use a T3/04 hybrid Turbo

 

Like VTC said, with the 440s you wont need the MF2.

VTC:If you lower the FP a little bit you wont be as rich at idle.

 

Working on obtaining an adjustable FPR as we speak

 

Two questions first:
1) How much boost you plan on running and/or want to be able to run in the future?

2) What type of WHP you shooting for?

 

Anymore thoughts on this? Im kinda curious how people feel about IAC. Personaly Im not a fan, but it does have some good points. I just would like to see what others views are on it...

art

 

Personally I didn't like the MF2... until I found out that it can adjust fuel by RPM and BOOST (3D fuel adjusment). I still don't like the idea of putting 2 injectors in the intake, cause if the injectors are not placed properly, you could have problems.

If you dont like the idea of the additional injectors in the intake, you can look into fabricating an additional fuel rail. With this type if setup you can position 1 injector for each cylinder for a total of 4 additional injectors. I think DirtyLude and PureLude were working on a setup like this, but they decided to go full standalone instead. Below is a link that has some info on the 4 additional injectors, scroll down to 3/4 of the page to the date : 01/02/2001.

Courtesy of DirtyLude's site: http://www.hondaprelude.to/articles/inst_turbo.html

 

Thanks guys. . .I guess you were right Art. . .
Hondata is too much of a pain in the ***. . .I'd need to get a different ECU and harness. . .about $300 on partstrader. . .but yall know how that **** goes.

VFAC and 440's might be the route I'll go. . .

GREYZONE--I would like to hit 200+ at the wheels at 13 psi.

Marc


[Modified by turbocoupe, 12:33 PM 12/19/2001]

 

You can get damn close to that going this route:
–96 EX Coupe 5spd
–1.6L SOHC VTEC D16Y8
–GReddy Turbo w/Blue Box
–GReddy Type S BOV
–GReddy T-31 Intercooler
–GReddy Boost Controller, Profec-B
–GReddy EVO Exhaust
–Holly 255lph in-tank Fuel Pump
–Vortech 10:1 FMU
–A’PEXi V-AFC
–MSD SCI Ignition
–MSD Blaster 3 Coil
–MSD Pro Cap
–MSD Plug Wires
–NuForms Block Guard
–2 Mil Head Gasket (GReddy, of course)
–ARP Head Studs

This is 210whp at 12psi...

Also, If you go with the injectors consider 310s over 440s, 310s shoudl be more than enough, but give you better performance at idle and freeway cruising...I'm still using stiock injectors and they're working fine. Kinda like if it works, don fix it.

I'm also gonna be going to 8:1 on the FMU, and Im still rich at 12lbs, even with the stock injectors and intank pump. Although, if over 90psi is needed you'll have to go with an inline pump.

Thing is, with 13psi, you're starting to really hit the "cross-over" point with this engine where the above setup has its limitations and it becomes time for rods, pistons and sleeving.

 

I never said Hondata was a pain in the ***. I prefer hondata rather than the alfabit soup FMU/ AFC/ VFAC/RC combo.

art

 

i am running an 8 injector set up on my new set up. two fuel rails. but thats with a stand alone.

 

Yo Art, you dissing my alphabet soup?


[Modified by greyzone, 6:19 PM 12/19/2001]

 

No, because I also use the FMU. But you have to understand that the FMU is old 70's turbo technology. Now we have better options to choose from. Nothing wrong with alphabet soup, just not my choice.

art

 

Got any suggestions for me on a better way to run my setup? (see above)

let me know, cause I wanna keep learning about options and better ways of doing it.


[Modified by greyzone, 10:56 PM 12/19/2001]

 

440's and AFC work for me, plus after my build up this summer, I can keep my 440's with either Hondata or AEM

 

Art I didn't say you said the Hondata was a pain in the ***. . .it just seems like a pain in the *** to me. . .ya know splice here, soder there. . .blah blah blah. . .I'll probally end up going alphabet soup though. . .the coolness factor with the VAFC on your console gives me wood.

Greyzone I pretty much have the same set up as you except for all the MSD ignition ****. . and the blockguard and studs. . .


[Modified by turbocoupe, 1:17 PM 12/20/2001]

 

Those are some major factors (needed) for higher boost, also the 2 mil headgasket.

How are you running at idle and regular non-boost driving, like city and freeway?? Whats your fuel delivery system, ie: fuel pump, FMU, max fuel pressure (idle to max boost), etc...Also, why'd you go 440s over 310s or 370s??...


[Modified by greyzone, 3:57 PM 12/20/2001]

 

Walbro/BBK 255lph pump, RC440's, AFC trim. Car drive just fine off boost thanks to the AFC trim. Haven't had a chance to test pressures though which I need to do cause I wanna pick up an adjustable regulator and dial back a little fuel at idle, work with a slightly lower pressure overall. I choose 440's because Ive always intended on building the motor up and going with lots of boost in the future, may as well the big ones now.


[Modified by VTC_CiViC, 7:05 PM 12/20/2001]

 

so no FMU or FPR?? How much boost and whats your AF running at max boost, do you know?


[Modified by greyzone, 10:50 PM 12/20/2001]