Which is it and why?

Cp
Weisco
Je
Nippon
....?

Something good for at least 600whp

Ptw will be .040

Lets hear your opinions or what ypure running now or what works for you everytime and what you recommend to others.

 

It boils down to the material and construction of the piston more so than the brand name.

I've had the same 84mm off the shelf (part number SC7017) CP's in my block since it was originally built by the previous owner in 2007? Then I rebuilt it again myself after a spun rod bearing and just put new rings on em in 2010.

 

Those are the only options? Either way, I like Wiseco 4032 forgings. I used to be a huge promoter of anything 2618 (namely CP) but that was back when BS was flying about how weak 4032 was. Decided to call around and request information and study things... Cast definitely has it's benefits as well, just not in a FI engine IMO.

It really comes down to what the specific application the engine is being built for. Technology really has changed with different groove spacings, rings, strutting, and crown designs. Yeah, some of its been around for years but was only available to high dollar race teams. Now you can just go buy it off the shelf.

My question is why are you specifically saying a PTW clearance off the bat? You do realize that's not how it works right? Your clearance is kinda on the loose side for 4032 and possibly on the tight side for 2618. If you are so fixated on the PTW clearance, then you need to go 4032 IMO.

PS - I am just going to assume you meant 0.004" and not forty thousandths.

 

Youre right idk why i added that in there

I also spelled your wrong in the title too

 

Tough crowd


Off to gdd i go

 

I use cp since I used it on my first build. It does the job I had a set of wiseco but sold that and bought cp.

 

Arias is my choice but not listed. Stout Pistons. Little on the heavier side but worth the added weight. We throw a beating on them and they hold up. Not to say others won't but these are my choice.

I also ran SRP pistons years back in my street build and they held up very well to daily abuse for five years. Higher silicon content allowed for tighter PTW

 

pretty much summed it all up. I'm a fan of 2618.

 

From my long visits with Larry Widmer (Endyn), He has stated that most every piston in the USA started as a slug from Weisco.
CP. JE and many others just machine them.

He also stated that coatings on the top of the piston aren't needed and said that a simple carbon layer on their tops is as good.

After seeing with my own eyes that Nissan and the Drag Cartel (as well as a prince in Spain and others) had their top effort motors being built by Larry; it's not a problem taking Him at His word.

 

You also misspelled Wiseco in the graph

 

<p>No, you're a go-to piston.</p><p>Also, Wiseco 10 times out of 10.</p>

 

Doubtful..

You can see the logo of Aluminum Precision Products at 1:54 on the boxes of stock.


http://www.aluminumprecision.com

 

Really? I had nothing but issues with them on my old forged F22. They were insanely noisy right out of the box at the recommended PTW. Never shut up unless I was straight ripping on the car for a solid hour and got a ton of heat in them. I also bent a standard pin well under what they were rated for and ended up splitting a sleeve in half because of it. I will never use another Arias product.

I personally prefer Wiseco. They make a very nice piston with more features at a more reasonable price.

 

CP all the way.

 

Something wasn't right IMO. Good portion or people going fast use Arias outlaw Pistons. We ran shelf Pistons with Lateral gas ports added and the upgraded pins made 800+ to the wheels no issues. Hell we got the motor hot and lean to the point of rings touching and the Pistons are still fine. Matter of fact they're going into my street car build. I opted to upgrade to ARFab spec Arias outlaws because I'm shooting for 1200hp. If you took a shelf 81mm and dropped it into the stock bores they're going to be noisy regardless of what brand you buy it's a chunk of aluminum slapping around inside a steel liner lol. Could've been the wrist pins were to tight in the piston or rod also if they weren't fit right when hung it'll cause issues

 

Has anyone actually pushed Nippon pistons near the 600 wHP level? I've seen a lot of talk about them and most seem to be comfortable with them up to 400 wHP. I ask only because I noticed no one voted for them, yet.

EDIT: I've actually found a few builds that have. They don't seem popular. Reasoning being?

 

Because it's a risk mpst people aren't willing to take. Would you want to possibly destroy the entire engine and turbo because you wanted to save a couple hundred dollars on cast pistons? If you are... uh... gutsy, yeah that, to do it then go for it. I would rather not take the risk myself.

When a cast piston starts to let go, they usually do so very quickly. Where a forged piston will deform and potentially stay together much longer in comparison. Also, there are many forces enacting on a piston and the cast are weaker in all areas as well as their thermal capacity.

 

That guy with the auto turbo build dropped nippons with stock rods into his b18c (motor still the the car) and made 516whp with meth and bw s256

If that ain't bad/enough for nearly any street build then I dunno what is.

 

Can make that power on oem Pistons and e85 why bother touching the motor other than head studs

 

Best bang for your buck is a stock gsr motor with head studs and a good turbo kit. Will make all the power you need for a street fwd car and be oem reliable with a good tune

 

so what would you recommend on a nitrous build? And why?

 

What about areas without E85? 93 octane is the best we have. Do you suggest purchasing E85 and having it shipped?

 

**** yeah

If you can i would

I might buy a barrel just so i dont need to go to the gas station

 

Is there some kind of additive to extend the shelf life of e85 when buying it by the barrel? I would consider this if I wasn't so worried about it going bad before I used it all...

 

It wont go bad THAT fast. Unless you live in a very humid climate. I've never added any stabilizer to my gas over winter, never had an issue.

The stuff is the **** though.