Went for tune today, car was running mega rich because that was how i set it (AFC HACK) So i knew it would be safe till i could get it to the dyno. Anyway all was going well and we were slowly leaning it up, it ran 223 and it was still very rich so i dropped it 3% across the board on the AFC and went for it again, it went a lot better and i was expecting better numbers but got to 5000 rmp and then it just revved to the limiter. The clutch was slipping like crazy so had to pack up and go home. Really pissed because the clutch has only done like 5000 miles and its from an integra type r so should deal with the power better than that.

 

oem clutches are not meant to handle the torque produced by F/I. its also just a matter of time when using oem clutches, unluckily for you that time was pretty short....goodluck

 

why didn't you get a non oem clutch?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why didn't you get a non oem clutch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

word

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SOHC_MShue &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why didn't you get a non oem clutch?</TD></TR></TABLE>

because at the time i needed a clutch that could handle up to 200 bhp on a N/A car. The integra one was cheap because a mate rallies a type r and he bought the car brand new and changed the clutch straight away so he gave the standard one to me. Looks like i will be changing it now tho, its ok to drive on the road so it does not need doing right away.

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crispydee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> Really pissed because the clutch has only done like 5000 miles and its from an integra type r so should deal with the power better than that. </TD></TR></TABLE>

 

Yeah i now its not the end of the world but it just seems to be one thing or another goes wrong at the moment. i was going to replace it anyway just not at the moment.

 

My stock ITR clutch has handled 8000 kms boosted (260 hp), 20 drag runs and 4 track days. It has 50,000 total kms on it and it's still going strong.

 

Welcome to the world of FI , Build it right the First time. Cheaper to spend more money up front and get the clutch you need than buy a clutch that cant take the torque/power now you have to buy another clutch and the labor/time to replace it..

Good luck let us know how it turns out.

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...33730

Will that be good enough for what i need? and is it a good price? im only running 8psi on stock internals

 

ANYONE?

 

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by crispydee &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ANYONE?</TD></TR></TABLE>

No. That's the organic replacement Exedy Clutch. It's not much stronger than O.E. and you'd just be in that situation all over again. EXEDY is a great clutch company, but I'd use the stage II Part#08950B. It may look scary, but even my wife uses it on her NA B16 Civic SI, going to a B20 block swap. Very easy on the legs and can take over 300ft/lbs of torque.

 

like this....
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...=WDVW

So its a three puk and still has a light peddle feel£ is that a good price?