Hey everyone!

Ive been having some issues with my teggy since its tune. I was hoping someone here could look at my config file and see if anything jumps out at them. If so please shoot me a message and I can email it to you. I dont know to much about it.

I am seriously starting to question the "exp" of the guy I paid to tune my car. Not because the car has issues, but because as we were tuning, he was talking some serious nonsense, and now after the fact I have met a few guys who say his tunes are garbage. And to be perfectly honest I trust you guys here more anyways!

So if your willing to look at it, and you have some exp with hondata, I would really appreciate the help!!!

Also every since I tuned it, the car has had some issues. For example, the car has a fraction of the power it use to until it spools up. I would think that the car would have the strength it use to before it went choo choo, but I'm telling you, its power has fell off dramatically(until it spools).

Another issue is trying to take off slow is almost impossible. as you baby it into motion, there is no power, then all of a sudden a burst of acceleration. Its like when you push the gas, the car tries to go, but at first it just cant get any power, then all of a sudden it finds some.

It reminds me of this golf cart I had that the carb was messed up so it would have no power until you pulled the choke just enough to bring the mixture back into efficiency, and it would run like a scalded dog!

Also (maybe unrelated) if you turn the car on, you can hold the gas to an exact RPM, but once the wideband initializes, the car goes back and forth from lean to rich, and stumbles a bit only to regain its power only to stumble again. When you first crank it, you can hold the rpm perfectly still, yet as soon as the gauge displays a number, the car starts jumping around. My wideband is wired into my ECU and Hondata is set to read it. I have attached a video to give kind of an example of the jumping around.

This vid was taken before I realized you could hold the RPMs as long as you did it before the sensor initialized. I wish I had one of me cranking the car, holding it perfectly at 4k, and then once it displays the mix, the jumping starting, Either way take a look...


Guys I appreciate any help you offer, and I appreciate you looking over this for me. Let me know what I can do from here to fix these issues.

Thanks again!

-Shane

 

Maybe an exhaust leak is causing the AFR gauge to bounce around like that?

As for the other points, maybe take it somewhere else for a 2nd opinion?

 

Sounds like he tuned it and then put it into closed loop and the perameters are setup correctly. I never have been a fan of closed loop operation on S300. I always had issues with it and frankly if the car is tuned properly you dont need to run closed loop.

Also if its not in closed loop then the fuel maps are just all out of wack If its not fine tuned from break point to break point it will search like that

 

it is in closed loop with wideband. I tried it in open and the rpms were all over the place! I even tried it closed loop with original o2 and it was still all over the place. to be honest the closed loop with wideband was the smoothest of all 3 even though it still searches. what can I do?

 

Need to be tuned properly.

 

well I was kinda hoping someone here could look at my maps, or maybe a data log and confirm that before I go spend another bundle of cash. is this possible?

 

holy jesus! I've seen ecu's doing some searching before, but NEVER in that huge of a range of afr. it's possible the closed loop operation just isn't set up properly. it's also very possible the tune really is garbage.
I'll take a look at your calibration file. shoot it to me at: ctcarryhelper@gmail.com

 

Log it and send me your file. Senditracing@yahoo.com

 

sent and sent...

Thank you guys so much!!

 

huh, I replied on here yesterday and apparently it didn't save properly for some reason. so here goes again:

the fuel and ignition maps actually look pretty good. might need a hair more ignition in low rpms light throttle to cure some of the breakup you're still getting, but it doesn't look to be too far off.
first I would double check and set the ignition timing, by clicking the "online" at the top left, then click "set timing", set it to 16 degrees, and with a timing light adjust the distributor so the timing pointer points to the middle of the 3 marks on the crank pulley.

then, in parameters, closed loop tab, change it to "wideband input (LAMBDA target)". you currently have it set for voltage target.
if that doesn't work, next you could try lowering the numbers in the rate of change portion at the bottom of the closed loop tab

 

I tried both closed loops and open loop, they were the same except open loop was worse. what else could it be? what could I try?

 

I'm very sorry I'm out of town and don't have my laptop with me. I will be back home Tuesday and will review your tune for you.