90teg

I went back to the track yesterday after fixing many problems that were causing me to miss shift I.E. broken motor mounts, worn shifter stablizer, some random short shifter were some of the few. I was rushing and I totally forgot to put loctite. The I remember this after I put everything back together. I said the hell with it off to the track I went. At the track made two passes no problems. Third run I get into the burnout box and I am about to stage car would not shift into or out of 2nd gear. I turned the car off and it would shift in and out of gears only with the car turned off. I turned the car on with 2nd gear engaged and car started moving. Hear some grinding noises thought it was the tranny. Today I take the tranny out and find this.....

http://www.we-todd-did-racing....gajyr
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....csgki
http://www.we-todd-did-racing....afi87

The clutch is a month old with maybe 600miles on it. One of the flywheel bolts backed out about halfway and well the rest is history. Sucks I basically wasted a prefectly good clutch.

Topdawgg

shitty dude...

ive never heard of flywheel bolts backing out... Ive never even concidered using loctite

Finest

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Topdawgg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">ive never heard of flywheel bolts backing out... Ive never even concidered using loctite
</TD></TR></TABLE>

Normally, the right amount of torque on the bolts should hold them in fine. But obviously in the extreme conditions that we put the car through, extra vibrations, higher rpms, etc etc...some do back out over time.

I even go so far as to loctite the pressure plate bolts as well when buttoning up a clutch job. Had one of those back out on me once too.

Bailhatch

ya i locktite the flywheel bolts too. only based on my paranoia though, nothing else

adseguy

I've never heard of locktiting them and the Honda manual doesn't either. Torque should be enough to hold them down like anything else (rod bolts, main bolts, head studs).

I bet you just missed torquing them down....which sucks

non-VTEC

i always apply blue loctite to the flywheels bolts........especially on aluminum flywheels.

good luck

meanEG

happened to me twice. both times they were loctited&lt;=? ill never use another aluminum flywheel.

JDogg

aluminum flywheel ftl.. the aluminum is too soft, it wears away under the head of the bolt... instant loose bolt

adseguy

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">aluminum flywheel ftl.. the aluminum is too soft, it wears away under the head of the bolt... instant loose bolt</TD></TR></TABLE>

Learned something new today

Bailhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never heard of locktiting them and the Honda manual doesn't either. Torque should be enough to hold them down like anything else (rod bolts, main bolts, head studs).

I bet you just missed torquing them down....which sucks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Some factory flywheel bolts come with threadlock already applied. it must be for some reason or they wouldent spend the $ on it right?


Modified by Bailhatch at 1:54 AM 5/29/2007

HiProfile

I would expect the fact aluminum to expand too much to be the issue. It expands, weakens the bolt, contracts, and eventually the bolt gets and inch and takes a mile.

Now was this the bolt for the crank-fw bolt, or the steel friction insert? I can see the latter making the mess, but not the former.

90teg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by adseguy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I've never heard of locktiting them and the Honda manual doesn't either. Torque should be enough to hold them down like anything else (rod bolts, main bolts, head studs).

I bet you just missed torquing them down....which sucks</TD></TR></TABLE>

Nah, I checked the torque on the bolts 3 times each. I made sure they were all torqued to spec. I'm paranoid when it comes to torquing bolts. I always torque them, then check them, then recheck them just to give myself a warm fuzzy inside.

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

happened to me once too....took about 5 times taking the tranny off/on to figure it out. I'm a regular tranny removing pro now!!

Most likely it happened cause you didn't torque that bolt correctly, the tq wrench might have clicked, but possibly you didn't have the socket on there completely.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

I remove the starter to double check the clutch bolts.

mike1114

iTrader: (1)

cant see the flywheel bolts through the starter hole, the clutch is in the way, but good idea on the clutch bolts.

raene

Sucky!

I've always loctite'd all the clutch and flywheel bolts, it's cheap insurance. Basically anything I can't get to without removing something or jacking the car up, I try to loctite.

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

Loctite is such a PITA to clean off the threads when reinstalling.

Bjorn20

Not trying to threadjack but... after reading this post, i decided to stop being lazy and finally put on my clutch/pp/flywheel. But ran into the problem that i only had 7 flywheel bolts???? and missing 3 of the bolts for the pressure plate. Before putting on the flywheel, there were 2 threaded holes at the top that were reallly close together compared to the other 6, not sure why that is? Also what the hell are rollers?

1Bar GSR

I always loctite my flywheel bolts and torque them down! I would never think to put them on there without it. I also loctite my crank pully bolt as well! An easy way to clean off the loctite is a wire wheel or wire brush, it wont mess up the bolt threads and cleans all the threads!

PrecisionH23a

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Muckman &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Loctite is such a PITA to clean off the threads when reinstalling.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Invest in a die

Muckman

iTrader: (2)

I have a set. Doesnt have a M10x1.0. Damn Honda and their fine pitch!

JDogg

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by PrecisionH23a &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Invest in a die </TD></TR></TABLE>

wire wheel ftw!

Bailhatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by JDogg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

wire wheel ftw!</TD></TR></TABLE>
for the f<U></U>uckin win

PiMpIn

that sucks

turbosi03

In Helms manual, it states all torque specs are assuming lite oil on threads unless specified otherwise. Now it doesn't say on the flywheel page NOT to apply oil to threads, so I did in order to get proper torque.

My question is, wont the thread lock change torque readings?

Was I wrong to put oil on fw bolt threads and maybe just lucky that I have no issues?